Skip navigation

Wiring: ECU etc

Engine 'management' Options:
  • K-Jet management from mk2 Golf 16V. This is what I used as this is by far the simplest, and people seem to run respectable power figures.
  • KE-Jet. This requires a few more sensors including a Lambda sensor in the exhaust system (Which is what came in the 9A engine Passat as std and believe comes on the Corrado as well).
  • Custom Standalone, Mega Squirt etc. Apparently better but more involved.
First things first....LABEL the mk1 loom as you remove it from the engine, sensors etc, if possible take pictures. I numbered each and checked I knew at least vaguely what each thing was called before I removed any wires. It makes life considerably easier if you get confused later on, do the same if you are braking a full car for the 16V engine.

K-Jet (Mk2 16V KR) with Mk1 Engine Loom

This is the 'bare minimum' setup.

What you need (See Image 1 - Mk2 K-Jet 16V ECU and TCI Loom ):
  • Mk2 KR ECU (Preferably with mounting bracket)
  • Mk2 KR TCI
  • Mk2 KR ECU/TCI Loom

The minimum parts required for K-Jet are shown in Image 1, its not much wiring and there's no need for any of the bits that go inside the car. The existing Mk1 'Main' Loom handles the rest of things (temperature senders etc). You only really need 16V loom to handle the coil, distributor, throttle switch and ISV. There are various Conversion looms available commercially (e.g. TSR diagram attached), no real benefit in using them over the standard loom.

K-Jet (Mk2 16V KR) with Mk2 Engine Loom

This assumes you are installing the whole Mk2 16V setup, so no guide is required as you will be copying the 16V bay, wiring, hardware, pipe routing etc.

What you need (See Image 1 - Mk2 K-Jet 16V ECU and TCI Loom ):
  • Mk2 KR ECU (Preferably with mounting bracket)
  • Mk2 KR TCI
  • Mk2 KR Complete Engine Loom, Multi plugs in back of Fuse box (Only if late mk1 with blade fuse type fusebox) to various behind dash and into Engine bay. Include the ISV control box from behind dash.
  • Mk2 KR ECU/TCI Loom
If doing this option, replacing the whole loom, it is likely you will be fitting the Mk2 KR ISV (part of the point of doing this conversion), so inevitably:
  • Mk2 ISV and appropriate pipe work.

See "MK1 Golf 16V Main Wiring loom" for notes on using the MK2 Golf Loom
Note, Remove Mk1 TCI and its small loom section, these are not required as replaced with 16V items.

A: Vacuum Tube.
Connect to vacuum system. Mine feeds off the side off the one way valve
(Yellow/Black jobber in vacuum line).

B: Three Pin Multi Plug (Black/Yellow, Red/Yellow, Black/White)
Black/White. This should go from the ECU to join 'D' at the coil, or loop back and connect to Black wire from to TCI (see D below).
Black/Yellow. Throttle Position Switch, Pin 3 and onwards. This is not required, however can be wired up to give
Red/Yellow is the Fuel Pump Relay Trigger. NOT required if you already have an injection mk1 as you will have the existing Mk1 Fuel pump wiring and
5-Pin relay already in place. If converting a Carbed mk1 this wire could be used to trigger a 16V (4-Pin) fuel pump relay.

C: Single Ring Terminal (Black)
Earth - Connect to Battery Negative

D: Single Spade (Black)

E: Single Spade (Green)
D and E are from the 16V TCI and replace the mk1 TCI connections to the ignition coil (the red/blk and black wires from the mk1 engine loom staying in existing positions on coil). Wire colours from TCI should match the existing mk1 wires: 'D' (Black) on 16V loom goes to Connection 1 (Black Wire), positive on coil. E (Green) on 16V loom goes to connection 15, (green wire), negative on coil.

F: Single Ring Terminal (Brown)
Distributor Earth - Bolts to RH Rear of Head at Dizzy.

G: Three Pin Multi Plug (Grey/Green, Red/Black, Brown/White)
Hall Sender - Multi Plug on Distributor.

H: Single Spade (Blue/White)
Temperature sensor - Side of head.

Image 2 - Image 2 - 9A Block with sensors

Note: I believe the image is of a American spec 9A engine, but the image helps for labelling of sender/sensor positions.
1 and 2:
Oil Low and High pressure switches. Wires already in the mk1 loom, except on the mk1 one of the sensors is located on RH side of head (if looking from front of engine bay back at the engine).
White Pressure Sender (High Pressure): Blue/Black Wire
Black Pressure Switch (Low Pressure): Yellow Wire
3, 4, 5 and 6:
There are four possible screw positions around this coolant outlet (obviously in this image 3, 4 and 5 are used and 6 is an empty one on top left hidden behind coolant pipe). On mine the arrangement/layout is as follows:
      • Top Left; I have my ECU temp sensor here (labelled as 3 in the image), but mine is a single spade sensor like '5'. This is where 'H' on the above loom locates. Single Spade Blue/White Wire to ECU loom. Here is shown as a two pin multi plug, maybe required for alternative management instead of the Mk2 16V K-Jet.
      • Top Right, As in image, a single spade temp sensor for the coolant gauge on dash (Direct connection from mk1 loom). Single Spade Yellow/Red Wire to main Mk1 Loom.
      • Bottom Right, The Thermo-time switch (Again, direct connection from existing mk1 loom). 2 Pin Multiplug (Green/White and Black/Red Wires) to main Mk1 Loom.
      • Bottom Left, Vacant. If you are running a 16V ISV setup you will need this for an additional single spade temp sender.
      Oil Temp Sensor, exactly same location and connection as Mk1 engine, Rear of Head on Right hand side. Single spade Green/Black wire to Main Mk1 Loom. This controls Oil Temp on the dash digital VDO gauge, but can also be linked to a VDO analogue dial instead (NB, will not work for both at same time).

There are no pages beneath this page

There are no posts yet