Intermediate shaft seal change on timing belt side of engine
Submitted by jaaquo.
So today i changed the oil seal on the intermediate shaft and took photos so i can try help others do it!
it took me a good 5 hours to do, this is my first how to so bare with me!
This method is how i managed to do it and is for engines with the code: EX
Steps
1. Remove air filter
2. Remove top timing belt cover by unlatching the two clips at the upper most point and wiggling it free
3. Jack the front of car up and put on axle stands.
4. Take forward right hand (from drivers seat) wheel off.
5. Remove auxiliary drive belt by loosening the adjustment bolt on the alternator and moving the alternator downwards.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley this i found easiest to use a pair of plug pliers to hold the pulley allowing me to apply enough force to the allen key bolts.
7. Remove the lower timing belt cover to do this the crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley need to be removed, to allow access to hiding bolts and to allow the cover to be removed.
8. Remove the number one piston HT lead and spark plug
9. Remove the flywheel inspection cap on gearbox
10. place a long screwdriver into the piston chamber
NOTE: ENSURE WHEN TURNING THE CRANKSHAFT THAT THE PISTON DOESN'T TRAP THE SCREWDRIVER AS IT MOVES UP AND DOWN, THIS COULD CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE PISTON OR BORE
11. Turn the crankshaft with a 19mm socket until the screwdriver is at its up most position and the markings on the cam shaft sprocket (O T) are inline with the markings (arrow) on the plastic cover the top timing belt top cover was latched onto, and remove the screwdriver.
12. Look to see if there is a distinct mark on the flywheel, looks like a chisel has been smashed into it!
NOTE: THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ONLY FITS ONE WAY, THERE IS A SMALL NIPPLE TO ENSURE THIS CANT BE FITTED THE WRONG WAY. AS CAN BE SEEN AT THE 9 O'CLOCK POSITION ON THE PHOTO BELOW
13. Refit hand tight the crankshaft pulley to the sprocket.
14. Check that the timing mark on the pulley lines up with the mark on the intermediate shaft sprocket, the mark on the sprocket looks like a punch has been hit into the side of it, and the mark on the pulley looks like a chisel has been hammered into the lip closest to the engine block.
NOTE: IF ONE OR MORE OF THESE MARKS DOESN'T LINE UP YOUR TIMING COULD WELL BE OUT.
15. Once you are happy all these marks line up its time to mark everything!
I used torque seal, as i had it to hand, but tip-ex works just as well.
16. Where to mark:
a) Cam shaft sprocket to the plastic shield
b) Intermediate shaft sprocket to the engine block
c) Crankshaft pulley to the intermediate shaft sprocket ( do this in two places i.e at each point where the outer circumferences cross) (i couldnt get a good enough angle onto the sprocket so took a photo when it was off the shaft)
17. Once your happy and have checked double checked and maybe triple checked that all the markings are in the correct place and that the flywheel is in the correct position and that the screwdriver is in the correct position, move onto the next step!
18. Loosen the nut on the timing belt tensioner
19. Turn the tensioner by hand anti clockwise to slacken the belt.
20. Last chance to check everything again!
21. Remove the timing belt
NOTE: I REPLACED THE OIL DURING THIS PROCESS, AND REMOVED THE OIL BEFORE REPLACING THE SEAL SO DON'T KNOW IF THE OIL COULD COME OUT OF THE HOUSING. I DOUBT IT AS THE OIL SHOULDN'T BE UP THAT HIGH ON THE ENGINE BUT WORTH KNOWING THAT THE OIL COULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED!
NOTE: THE TORQUE ON THE SPROCKET SECURING BOLT IS ROUGHLY 80NM, ENSURE THE CAR IS STABLE ON THE AXLE STANDS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO LOOSEN THE BOLT.
22. Put a large punch or extension through the intermediate shaft sprocket so it stops the shaft turning against the oil housing bolts, and remove the sprocket securing nut.
I had to extend the ratchet handle by adding a spanner to increase the turning moment produced to budge the bolt, i think it is torqued to 80Nm.
23. Remove the sprocket ensuring the woodruff key isn't lost.
For those that don't know what the woodruff key is, it is a small half moon shaped piece of material, the radius goes into the shaft and the flat edge is poking out only allowing the sprocket to be fitted in one orientation. (shown in the picture above)
NOTE: PLACE DRIP TRAY UNDER TIMING BELT SIDE OF THE ENGINE TO ENUSRE THE CAPTURE OF OIL THAT COULD DRIP OUT.
24. Remove the seal housing from the engine block, there is a slot at the top end of the seal housing which allows a screwdriver to be pushed in to assist removing the housing.
25. Take the old o-ring out from the housing and discard it
26. From the back of the housing using a punch and a hammer, remove the old seal.
27. Inspect the seal housing, clean it with nail varnish to remove any residuals.
28. If any burrs or scores are on the housing inside surface, use 400 grit emery cloth to polish them out.
29. Rub a thin layer of gasket sealant (RTV) on the inside of the oil seal housing and also to the outer edge of the oil seal.
30. Push seal into the seal housing, use a large socket to evenly punch the seal all the way into the housing.
31. Rub vaseline to all the inside contact surfaces with the intermediate shaft, this helps stop the oil seal overheating and burning on its first run before the oil gets inside the seal to help cool it down.
32. Put new o-ring on the housing
33. Install the seal housing back into the engine block. and tighten bolts a little bit at a time until the housing is seated correctly and bolts tight.
34. Put the woodruff key into the slot on the shaft radius first
35. Fit the intermediate shaft sprocket onto the shaft, ensuring the woodruff key doesn't get pushed out of the shaft.
36. Tighten the bolt to the sprocket to 80Nm or there a bouts!
37. Line up all the marks on the sprockets with the marks made before the belt was taken off.
38. Fit the timing belt, start from the crankshaft, then make sure there isn't any slack between the intermediate shaft and then again make sure there isn't any slack up to the camshaft, all the slack should be over the tension roller.
39. Turn the tensioner clockwise and hold it so the belt is tight as you tighten the nut to secure the tensioner.
40. Refit the crankshaft and water pump pulleys
41. Refit the ancillary drive belt and take the slack out by moving the alternator back up to its original position.
NOTE: BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE ENSURE TO TURN THE CRANKSHAFT THROUGH A FULL CYCLE OF ALL THE PISTONS TO ENSURE THE PISTONS DONT ENGAGE WITH THE VALVES CAUSING DAMAGE.
42. If the pistons do all turn freely then its time to try starting the engine, ensure the spark plug has been refitted first!
43. If all is well then remove the ancillary belt again
44. Remove the crankshaft and water pulleys again
45. Refit the timing belt lower cover
46. Refit the crankshaft and water pump pulleys
47. Refit the ancillary belt
48. Refit the top timing belt cover
49. Refit the air filter
50. Relax and have a cup of tea!
Hope this is clear enough for you all! i was originally going to do all three but couldn't see a reason not to!
So today i changed the oil seal on the intermediate shaft and took photos so i can try help others do it!
it took me a good 5 hours to do, this is my first how to so bare with me!
This method is how i managed to do it and is for engines with the code: EX
Steps
1. Remove air filter
2. Remove top timing belt cover by unlatching the two clips at the upper most point and wiggling it free
3. Jack the front of car up and put on axle stands.
4. Take forward right hand (from drivers seat) wheel off.
5. Remove auxiliary drive belt by loosening the adjustment bolt on the alternator and moving the alternator downwards.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley this i found easiest to use a pair of plug pliers to hold the pulley allowing me to apply enough force to the allen key bolts.
7. Remove the lower timing belt cover to do this the crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley need to be removed, to allow access to hiding bolts and to allow the cover to be removed.
8. Remove the number one piston HT lead and spark plug
9. Remove the flywheel inspection cap on gearbox
10. place a long screwdriver into the piston chamber
NOTE: ENSURE WHEN TURNING THE CRANKSHAFT THAT THE PISTON DOESN'T TRAP THE SCREWDRIVER AS IT MOVES UP AND DOWN, THIS COULD CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE PISTON OR BORE
11. Turn the crankshaft with a 19mm socket until the screwdriver is at its up most position and the markings on the cam shaft sprocket (O T) are inline with the markings (arrow) on the plastic cover the top timing belt top cover was latched onto, and remove the screwdriver.
12. Look to see if there is a distinct mark on the flywheel, looks like a chisel has been smashed into it!
NOTE: THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ONLY FITS ONE WAY, THERE IS A SMALL NIPPLE TO ENSURE THIS CANT BE FITTED THE WRONG WAY. AS CAN BE SEEN AT THE 9 O'CLOCK POSITION ON THE PHOTO BELOW
13. Refit hand tight the crankshaft pulley to the sprocket.
14. Check that the timing mark on the pulley lines up with the mark on the intermediate shaft sprocket, the mark on the sprocket looks like a punch has been hit into the side of it, and the mark on the pulley looks like a chisel has been hammered into the lip closest to the engine block.
NOTE: IF ONE OR MORE OF THESE MARKS DOESN'T LINE UP YOUR TIMING COULD WELL BE OUT.
15. Once you are happy all these marks line up its time to mark everything!
I used torque seal, as i had it to hand, but tip-ex works just as well.
16. Where to mark:
a) Cam shaft sprocket to the plastic shield
b) Intermediate shaft sprocket to the engine block
c) Crankshaft pulley to the intermediate shaft sprocket ( do this in two places i.e at each point where the outer circumferences cross) (i couldnt get a good enough angle onto the sprocket so took a photo when it was off the shaft)
17. Once your happy and have checked double checked and maybe triple checked that all the markings are in the correct place and that the flywheel is in the correct position and that the screwdriver is in the correct position, move onto the next step!
18. Loosen the nut on the timing belt tensioner
19. Turn the tensioner by hand anti clockwise to slacken the belt.
20. Last chance to check everything again!
21. Remove the timing belt
NOTE: I REPLACED THE OIL DURING THIS PROCESS, AND REMOVED THE OIL BEFORE REPLACING THE SEAL SO DON'T KNOW IF THE OIL COULD COME OUT OF THE HOUSING. I DOUBT IT AS THE OIL SHOULDN'T BE UP THAT HIGH ON THE ENGINE BUT WORTH KNOWING THAT THE OIL COULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED!
NOTE: THE TORQUE ON THE SPROCKET SECURING BOLT IS ROUGHLY 80NM, ENSURE THE CAR IS STABLE ON THE AXLE STANDS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO LOOSEN THE BOLT.
22. Put a large punch or extension through the intermediate shaft sprocket so it stops the shaft turning against the oil housing bolts, and remove the sprocket securing nut.
I had to extend the ratchet handle by adding a spanner to increase the turning moment produced to budge the bolt, i think it is torqued to 80Nm.
23. Remove the sprocket ensuring the woodruff key isn't lost.
For those that don't know what the woodruff key is, it is a small half moon shaped piece of material, the radius goes into the shaft and the flat edge is poking out only allowing the sprocket to be fitted in one orientation. (shown in the picture above)
NOTE: PLACE DRIP TRAY UNDER TIMING BELT SIDE OF THE ENGINE TO ENUSRE THE CAPTURE OF OIL THAT COULD DRIP OUT.
24. Remove the seal housing from the engine block, there is a slot at the top end of the seal housing which allows a screwdriver to be pushed in to assist removing the housing.
25. Take the old o-ring out from the housing and discard it
26. From the back of the housing using a punch and a hammer, remove the old seal.
27. Inspect the seal housing, clean it with nail varnish to remove any residuals.
28. If any burrs or scores are on the housing inside surface, use 400 grit emery cloth to polish them out.
29. Rub a thin layer of gasket sealant (RTV) on the inside of the oil seal housing and also to the outer edge of the oil seal.
30. Push seal into the seal housing, use a large socket to evenly punch the seal all the way into the housing.
31. Rub vaseline to all the inside contact surfaces with the intermediate shaft, this helps stop the oil seal overheating and burning on its first run before the oil gets inside the seal to help cool it down.
32. Put new o-ring on the housing
33. Install the seal housing back into the engine block. and tighten bolts a little bit at a time until the housing is seated correctly and bolts tight.
34. Put the woodruff key into the slot on the shaft radius first
35. Fit the intermediate shaft sprocket onto the shaft, ensuring the woodruff key doesn't get pushed out of the shaft.
36. Tighten the bolt to the sprocket to 80Nm or there a bouts!
37. Line up all the marks on the sprockets with the marks made before the belt was taken off.
38. Fit the timing belt, start from the crankshaft, then make sure there isn't any slack between the intermediate shaft and then again make sure there isn't any slack up to the camshaft, all the slack should be over the tension roller.
39. Turn the tensioner clockwise and hold it so the belt is tight as you tighten the nut to secure the tensioner.
40. Refit the crankshaft and water pump pulleys
41. Refit the ancillary drive belt and take the slack out by moving the alternator back up to its original position.
NOTE: BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE ENSURE TO TURN THE CRANKSHAFT THROUGH A FULL CYCLE OF ALL THE PISTONS TO ENSURE THE PISTONS DONT ENGAGE WITH THE VALVES CAUSING DAMAGE.
42. If the pistons do all turn freely then its time to try starting the engine, ensure the spark plug has been refitted first!
43. If all is well then remove the ancillary belt again
44. Remove the crankshaft and water pulleys again
45. Refit the timing belt lower cover
46. Refit the crankshaft and water pump pulleys
47. Refit the ancillary belt
48. Refit the top timing belt cover
49. Refit the air filter
50. Relax and have a cup of tea!
Hope this is clear enough for you all! i was originally going to do all three but couldn't see a reason not to!
There are no pages beneath this page
There are no posts yet