Project "little monster"
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Old Timer
Project "little monster"
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Posted
Local Hero
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Local Hero
Phsyched myself up for the dreaded C clamps, last time took ages but this time went much quicker, here's the little trick to getting them off
Not long now
Taking the weight
Both side mounts off and lowered a little to clear them, then moved forwards to be lifted up in front of the mounts.
Coming up out the top
Note, this is only possible if you remove the master cylinder and possibly servo too
Nice day for it huh
Time for a break and a cuppa
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Local Hero
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Old Timer
good progress paul. That poor mk1 doesnt know what is has coming.. :twisted: 8O
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Local Hero
Once the engine was out, I unbolted the gear linkage and a few other little bits and bobs, then set about degreasing the engine bay. This is the result of another couple of hours work, I kept going until I ran out of Gunk:
Most of the grease/water ended up on my arms and face. The remaining, was soaked up by my jeans while sitting/leaning in the engine bay.
Can't think up a witty caption for this one, kinda cute picture though, any ideas??? :
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Local Hero
see ive upset our little friend on cgti opps told him to get in the queue
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Local Hero
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Local Hero
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Old Timer
bens_cab said
check out the cgti parts for sale someone is selling a vr6 turbo kit you wont believe who it is
damn it, you made me read the whole 17 page thread. my eyes hurt!!!
'Highline' is not your greatest fan ben. :wink:
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Local Hero
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Old Timer
paul_c said
Note, this is only possible if you remove the master cylinder and possibly servo too
Cant wait to see this finished, and all your own work too which makes it even more worthwhile.
Got one Query though, you say engine out the top is only possible with the matercylinder etc removed ?
Mine came out thru the top - gearbox, turbo all still connected, and went back in the same way. Bit of a jiggle and neded help from another person to guide it thru but it can be done with the master cylinder and servo all in situ.. Is it becasue Paul you did this bit on your own that its not possible ? (not wanting to sound annal here by the way :wink: )
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Old Timer
turbtechnicsMK1 said
(not wanting to sound annal here by the way :wink: )
not wanting to sound pedantic, but it is spelt 'anal,' not 'annal.' :wink:
Posted
Local Hero
turbtechnicsMK1 said
paul_c said
Note, this is only possible if you remove the master cylinder and possibly servo too
Cant wait to see this finished, and all your own work too which makes it even more worthwhile.
Got one Query though, you say engine out the top is only possible with the matercylinder etc removed ?
Mine came out thru the top - gearbox, turbo all still connected, and went back in the same way. Bit of a jiggle and neded help from another person to guide it thru but it can be done with the master cylinder and servo all in situ.. Is it becasue Paul you did this bit on your own that its not possible ? (not wanting to sound annal here by the way :wink: )
When its tilted, the inlet manifold catches with the master cylinder. If its not tilted, then the gearbox mount doesn't fit past the battery tray (I think). It maybe possible, last time I tried it with the MC connected I scraped against and bent the brake pipes, though. If you're simply removing the engine & gearbox with a view to putting it back soon after, then its sensible to separate the engine & box in the car and draw out the box from underneath. I did it this way for speed - because my MC is getting replaced anyhow.
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Local Hero
I also measured the critical widths, the good news is it does fit with at least 2mm to spare. For info (I dunno, maybe someone else is secretly doing this conversion too???) here they are:
VR6
Gearbox - 358mm engine/box to outermost cover
Engine - 480mm engine/box to drivebelt
TOTAL engine/box - 838mm
Car
chassis legs at front (wider area) - 900mm
chassis legs at left trans mount area - 870mm
chassis legs at right engine mount area - 840mm
narrowest point at chassis legs level - 782mm
(This is below the strut turrets. Also allow 8mm clearance each side for brake pipes).
front bolt area of wishbones - 620mm
Gearbox/differential flanges
8V 020 - 235mm between flanges (outer lip), 90mm flanges
VR6 - 245mm between flanges (outer lip), 100mm flanges
Battery tray overhangs chassis rail
50mm rear edge
64mm front edge
So, 840mm width of car - 838mm width of engine/box means that its possible to fit it from above! I'll have 2mm clearance. Say 1mm each side. Lucky I cleaned off the grease earlier. In fact, its better than that because the widest part is at the gearbox cover, which sits kind of at the front, and the Mk1 chassis is wider at this point. So nothing is too critical.
Tomorrow will be more stripping (getting all the wiring out the way) followed by some basic 'metalwork' - cutting off the Mk1 engine mount points on the car. If all goes to schedule, I should be able to swing the VR6 into the engine bay for the first time, as a check fit and to firm up thoughts on where the new engine mounts will sit, where the ancillaries and pipes will all go, etc.
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Old Timer
marsredgti said
turbtechnicsMK1 said
(not wanting to sound annal here by the way :wink: )
not wanting to sound pedantic, but it is spelt 'anal,' not 'annal.' :wink:
Thanks for pointing that out, I'll add it to my list of words I clearly can't spell :wink:
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Local Hero
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Local Hero
foxymk1 said
give me a shout paul wen your putting it in, il come over and help ya
I'm putting it in today!
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Local Hero
cool if it is bring it to the pod and get whooped by a weed blower
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Local Hero
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