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Project "little monster"

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Project "little monster"

triple webber 45's

 oh the sound they would make

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Mini update

Frustrating trying to work around the weather. Now that a lot of parts have been unbolted, the car is a mess inside with screws and plastic trim, and everything else, all over the place. Ideally I'd like to get all the large trim pieces out, but with the poor weather I can't do that.

Anyway, I've unbolted almost all the parts I need off the car now. All the electrics are now off the car, I need to sort out what I'll need and what I don't. The clutch pedal came off not too hard, I'll need it for the hydraulic clutch. The brake pedal took ages to remove, in the end I started grinding it off and this set fire to the plastic retainer within it, which freed the ball at the end of the servo plunger. I don't think this plunger is compatible with the Mk1 linkage, so it looks like I can't reuse this. I needed to remove the servo anyway, to pull through some of the wiring.

The exhaust too, was a bit of a struggle to remove. In the end I cut through some bolts and removed a cover panel, and chiselled it off. I think all I'll be able to reuse is the lambda sensor, I didn't fancy removing it in-situ though.

The only thing left now is the gearshift and the engine mounts (on the subframe). I need to figure out a way to cut these off, but leave the car with 4 wheels so it can be taken away on a flatbed lorry.




                                

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looking good paul the pedal box you need for the mk1 to vr6 is a passat one i think its basicly a mix of the mk1 and passat iirc

if it was me id be shoehorning an 8v gearbox on that engine just for the off the line grin factor :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

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bens_cab said

looking good paul the pedal box you need for the mk1 to vr6 is a passat one i think its basicly a mix of the mk1 and passat iirc

if it was me id be shoehorning an 8v gearbox on that engine just for the off the line grin factor :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Apparently the bellhousings are a different shape, so its not possible to bolt up the 8V box. I'm ambitious, but I can't really see myself with a gas camping stove heating up some molten cast iron, then sandcasting my own custom bellhousing!

                                

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shame that  :lol:  :lol:

what are the vr6 ratios like i dont doubt it will be quick off the line but will it be revvy enough for a quick strip launch  :lol:  :lol:

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Not really planning this for the strip, its more for luxury cruising around. I imagine the standard VR6 gears in the lighter shell, will give plenty of useful performance and a reasonable top speed.

I think (not sure, not yet had a thorough inspection of the engine) that there's a bit of seepage of coolant from the block-head join, so I'm going to be changing the head gasket, skimming the head, doing a top end rebuild, replacing the cam chains and drivebelt etc. Its at this stage I need to decide if I'm going to be adding a supercharger, since this would be the ideal opportunity to pop in the spacer ring. At that point, I could really build a monster drag racer, but supercharger kits are really costly.

Anyway, another update: I've finally removed the wiring loom away completely off the car, and its safely stored. I thought it would fit in one bin bag, but no, it took 2 bags to fit it in:



Also removed a couple more minor items, such as the badges. All I need to do now is to cut off the engine mounts from the subframe and (I think, I'll have a final check) I'm done with the donor car.

                                

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im guessing the space for the charger is limited which is why they run them on the end of the head

what about a turbo conversion? if you could get a manifold made up then you could pretty much run whatever turbo you wanted depending on how much power you want

hats of to you tho mk1 vr6 crusier thats cooooolll 8)  8)

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I did a bit of research on turbo conversions.

1) I don't really like the idea of a turbo - I prefer the power low down, and no effects from on-off the boost.

2) Guys who put kits into Corrados and Golf Mk3s etc have loads of issues, because they're always designed for LHD and clash with stuff (the servo). Who know what it would clash with in a more confined Mk1

3) Heat build up under the bonnet - yuk! for power and longevity of everything else. Especially in a cramped underbonnet area, like I'll have

4) Cost!!!! Unless I get lucky on a secondhand item on eBay, or something, were talking $5000 or so.

                                

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Could you go for a vortech supercharger rather than the usual rootes?

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Overboost said

Could you go for a vortech supercharger rather than the usual rootes?

The Vortech charger is the most sensible option. It seems the most cost effective.

                                

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just get the biggest bottle of nos you can that should create a smile 100 shot per cylinder  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

ive got a couple of better videos of you at the pod paul but photo bucket doesnt want to host them i can email them to you if you pm me your email adress mate :wink:

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PM sent!

                                

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8) this will be very interesting

I was under the impression that unless your running high boost (over 8-10psi) the VR6 lump will handle it all day long?

My Corrado is an outstanding car to drive, but in a Mk1 with well over 200kg less weight  8O :twisted:

next stage would be schrick manifold + cam's  :wink:

_________________

'82 Black 1600 GTI - Getting Better

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full turbo KIT on corrado forum for sale ?950 manifold turbo pipes etc etc,
also te bently manual for the corrado covers the vr6 engine in depth….but at a rough price of about 80quid ish (fat book absolutly HUGGGGEEE) would be a good bu though as it would help u out alot.

i always have the last laugh ;)

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sim0n_parker said

full turbo KIT on corrado forum for sale ?950 manifold turbo pipes etc etc,

Don't even have to look at the ad, to know that its probably for LHD and will clash with something in the engine bay!

                                

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Nice project paul... will watch this one...

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

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Today's update. Over the past few days, I've now removed all the relevant parts off the donor car. I had to remove the front subframe, to be able to cut the engine mounts off with enough of it to leave me with some options when welding to the Mk1; yet with enough of the subframe remaining so the donor car doesn't collapse.

I finally got the engine in the shed (that was a struggle!) and I've now removed the gearbox.



The clutch looks in good condition, but I need to find out the stock thickness and the minimum allowable thickness, to be able to see how much through its life it is. Normally another hint is the amount of clutch dust which is in the local area - not much here.

I've stripped a number of brackets and parts out the way, to reach the cam chain cover:



only to discover, I need to remove the flywheel too. I need to obtain a "cheese head" M10 tool, tomorrow. Might send it off to get lightened, while I'm at it.

So I looked at the wiring loom, I decided to try and lay it out and reconnect everything as it would have been in the car:



Seems like I'll be able to split off just the engine stuff and connect it up to a standalone loom with not too many problems. Might end up using the original console, which means I might have to put quite a lot of the VR6 wiring in the car somehow. But I can worry about that later on.

                                

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paul_c said



.


 :lol: My wife just looked at that picture and had a fit ! All that washing not put away   :mrgreen:

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chudd said

paul_c said



.


 :lol: My wife just looked at that picture and had a fit ! All that washing not put away   :mrgreen:

Tell her some of its from GTI Festival - 3 weeks ago - and then cover your ears…

                                

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Now taken the cover off, need to check if the chain and guides need replacing or if there's plenty of life left in them.



Area B has a little wear, tapering from nothing to maybe 0.3mm next to zone A. Most of the wear is in area A, which is nearest the crank. It tapers from area B to near the end, from around 0.3mm to 0.8mm. Any ideas guys?


                                
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