Confusing Ride Height/Camber Issue

I have fitted new cylinders/shoes on the rear and these are working perfectly so that's not the cause but I see where you're coming from. The front brakes are a bit tight but everything is free hydraulically and mechanically. I think these will free off once the new pads have bedded in. As a test, I can remove the pads and repeat the measurements to see if maybe the friction on the front brakes is causing the front to rise, like trying to drive over a kerb or similar, and like you say the tightness of the new arm bushes may be holding it up in that position until I drive back again. It does sound plausible so I'll give it a go (while remembering hopefully not to touch the brake pedal )

Well that's that theory blown away. Before touching the brakes, rather than drive the car I decided to just push/pull it along the garage floor so no forces from the transmission tending to raise the front end and it's exactly the same. It rolls very easily back and forward so I'm not acting against any friction that could explain the front end rising like this. I don't know why but next step is to remove the arms again and go over everything once more.
Video demonstrates the camber change as I move the car back and forward. Use the vertical side of the garage door as a datum.

Mk1 Golf Camber - YouTube

That's a great video, there's certainly no obvious sign of drag on the brakes, as you say.  I guess the shift in camber must be down to play in the one or more suspension joints. With the audio turned up high on headphones, I can detect a slight knock from somewhere both times you push the car back - around 13s seconds and 27s - I wonder if that is connected. As I've hinted before, it's the kind of issue that should be quick to pinpoint on a ramp with an MOT shaker plate

I'll see if I can identify the knock you mention. The only play I can think of is with the top mounts. Torqued up onto the spacer I have mentioned previously that the top mounts have a fair amount of lateral movement due to the clearance between the OD of the spacer and the bore of the mount. There is no vertical clearance, only radial, causing this movement. The spacers are new and measure correct OD per the spec's. However everything is as it should be as far as I know, and assembled per the previous diagram. There can't be play anywhere else as it's all new and correctly torqued. I'm trying to figure out if it's the change in camber that's causing the body height to change, or the other way around. I'm tending to think that as it rolls the scrubbing of the tyres due to track is pushing the hub out at the top that effectively raises the body via the strut and thereafter as the camber is allowed to go back to negative the body drops back down. Maybe the tracking is so far out that the tyre lateral force is excessive ?. I'm clutching at straws really.

Before attempting anything else I took one of the old struts and assembled a new Febi top mount (one that I fitted first time around but replaced to eliminate them as possible problems) along with the spacer and washers as per the book diagram and torqued the nut up solid. All of the lateral play is within the bearing therefore I have to assume that this is correct and is not part of the problem I am experiencing. The second video is the same but with the spring cap removed just to show that the top mount is fully constrained onto the strut shoulder once the nut is torqued down so there is no play in the makeup, only within the bearing.

Top Mount Movement 2 - YouTube

Top Mount Movement 1 - YouTube

This really is one of the most puzzling things I have seen.
Wish I could offer some ideas but I'm completely stumped.

my MOT man has a device that shakes and rattles the front suspension in all directions, you drive over some plates on the 4poster ramp and they do the business

find a friendly MOT garage and ask you can put your car on and see if anything moves?

Early-1800 said

my MOT man has a device that shakes and rattles the front suspension in all directions, you drive over some plates on the 4poster ramp and they do the business

find a friendly MOT garage and ask you can put your car on and see if anything moves?

Everything that would be traditionally identified as having play is new. Top mounts, struts, ball joint, bottom arm, both bushes. There is no play in the one adjustable track rod end. Everything is torqued to the book. The only play I have identified are the top mounts as shown on the videos but this is the same (a bit worse) with the old top mounts and appears to be intentional with the design of the bearing. I'm still wondering if the track is wildly out with the new parts that the tyre is being forced outwards at the bottom causing the strut to tilt inwards (the top mounts would allow this) therefore giving a lot of negative camber.  Then as the tyre continues to rotate it moves back to its original position and the strut tilts back outwards again. I didn't want to mess with the track until I had resolved this but the two could be connected so I might just try this.

Finally resolved!!!!!

The issue was indeed due to excessive toe in. I had put off measuring the track until I had the camber sorted but should have done this much sooner. It measured a huge 4 degrees toe in. No wonder the force on the tyres was pushing the top of the wheel in therefore tilting the strut and altering camber/ride height. With the toe set at 1 degree out (total) the ride height and camber both remain constant. I need to tweak the camber a little bit again then recheck the track but it's just fine adjustment now and will be easy.
What a frustrating time it's been. Thanks for all of the suggestions throughout the lengthy process.

Glad you've got it sorted!

I'm glad you found the problem. Something to explore when l get round to fitting my new springs hopefully next year. How old are your tyres, by the way? I wonder if that would make a difference to how the suspension behaves. I certainly noticed a big improvement in ride and handling when I replaced my 28 year old Michelin MXV2 tyres 4 years ago

typ_53b said

I'm glad you found the problem. Something to explore when l get round to fitting my new springs hopefully next year. How old are your tyres, by the way? I wonder if that would make a difference to how the suspension behaves. I certainly noticed a big improvement in ride and handling when I replaced my 28 year old Michelin MXV2 tyres 4 years ago

The tyres are at least 25 years old although have never been on the road. They will be replaced once I've completed the rest of the work. I've been through a final round of camber and track adjustments and everything is spot on now so I'm very happy to have completed this part of the work. I've trundled around the yard a few times and it all seems to be settling down nicely.

The car looks fantastic, it will be great to see it on the road, hopefully a deserving candidate for that slightly over-used description of "time-warp" condition.

Being off the road for over 25 years and kept in dry conditions has certainly helped a lot. It'll be on the road again next spring. Despite it being in the family for some 35 years I never drove it so I'm keen to finally put some miles on it.