Fuel tank rust.

1.8 GTI tintop 1983

Decided to take a look in the tank today as still no further on with a starting issue. And have had a couple of pumps go bad on me over the last few years.

From the pic you can see quite a bit of rust stuck on top of the filter(?) and looks like it's rotten around the swirl chamber(bottom right of pic). Was thinking I could magnet out a lot of the rust particles initially. Does it look bad or is that pretty standard ?

First question is can I pull that filter out easily?

Does it go back easily? Or do I need to pull the whole black housing up to get to the filter?

Currently looking for a second hand tank to refurb but wanted to try and get the bits out of this one before hand.

oh and one other question: can i use a genuine diesel tank or does it not have the swirl pot?

Yes filter just pulls out easily with a hook through the hole. That's quite a bit of rust in there, is it coming off the top?. I have just fitted a new one and is real struggle to get the pump back in place so refurb is best option if you can. I wish I'd kept mine but was very rusty inside

Cheers for the advice. I'll pull it out but maybe best to get the fuel out first and magnet as much away as possible. 

It doesn't feel too bad around the top, there's a bit of visible surface rust but the bottom right hand side of pic seems to be where it's bad. 

Really don't want an aftermarket one as also heard and read bad stories about them on here. 

2nd Sportrtucker use some thick wire to make a hook to yank it out and to liine it back up when you put it back (push back down with a stick/socket extension)

Your pic shows what looks like road debris which of course won't come out of with a magnet.

You can try and siphon it out or last resort remove tank and swill out with fresh petrol multiple times.

 
 

Thanks all for the info. 
Have ordered a turkey baster to suck up some of the rubbish that's not metal. 
Will see how I get on and post an update. 

I think I will be looking for a replacement tank to refurb. 

If you get all the craap out you should be fine if the filler is new and intact.

Replacement tanks are utter rubbish compared the original, not to mention the hassle of swapping them with snapped axle mounting botls, sheared brake pipes, seized exhaust sections etc

Will a diesel tank have the same internal setup? 

Hi mate,
Been through the fuel tank saga.
I liaised with VW Classic Parts (OEM) and questioned them about advertising the diesel tank being compatible with the GTi, after telling them that the GTi tank should have the swirl pot which is the design, they basically told me that they no longer manufacturer this type and they can't help.
So I decided to restore my tank and keep to the original design. I used Hartlepool Radiators and my experience was good. I did had to emphasize to them to ensure the swirl pot cover is intact as they had to cut it to restore the tank.

This is my thread, may help you:
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=technical%2Felectrics_2%2F1983-mk1-golf-gti-fuel

That's really useful thanks. I think I will head down refurb route. All pipes filler neck pump and filters are new. Only thing I didn't refurb/replace was the tank. 

Do they split the tank open on the refurb? 

Supposed someone can't mod these new non original tanks to improve them. 

I think they do cut the tank to get acces inside and weld back.
I don't remember as it was a while back.
Worth calling them to find out the process.

I really struggled tp pull the filter out on mine, in the end I got some thick string (not so thich it wouldn't go through the hole on the filter). I really had to pull on it.
Filter was really clogged up so gave it a good clean. There was loads of debris around the 12-3 o'clock postion based on your pic. I got all that out as well.
Was made slightly easier as my tank was completely dry. I put a little bit of vaseline on the filter to make it easier to slde in - it's obvious where it should go - and get it properly bottomed.

number 28, pn 810201511A VAG fuel filter



If that helps you….

Bit of an update, I took the tank up to hartlepool radiators last week as on furlough and fancied a drive out.
They really seem to know their stuff and were working on all sorts of different tanks for cars and bikes.

They described the process of cutting some openings either end of the tank and blasting the inside and outside of the tank, they then weld back up and fix and other rot and pour the plastic liquid membrane in, pour out excess and bake it, on one side before repeating for the other side.

The swirl pot filter housing stays in during the process but the cover is removed and then has to be cut in half and re attached by carefully positioning it back through the sender access hole and back onto its clips, sounds a bit tricky but have confidence in them.

3-4 week turn around, Will let you know how it goes.

 

tnotty said

Bit of an update, I took the tank up to hartlepool radiators last week as on furlough and fancied a drive out.
They really seem to know their stuff and were working on all sorts of different tanks for cars and bikes.

They described the process of cutting some openings either end of the tank and blasting the inside and outside of the tank, they then weld back up and fix and other rot and pour the plastic liquid membrane in, pour out excess and bake it, on one side before repeating for the other side.

The swirl pot filter housing stays in during the process but the cover is removed and then has to be cut in half and re attached by carefully positioning it back through the sender access hole and back onto its clips, sounds a bit tricky but have confidence in them.

3-4 week turn around, Will let you know how it goes.

 

From experience I found just buying a brand new fuel tank was much easier than attempting to fix a rust fuel tank and potentially affect the strength and structure. I can't imagine there would be much difference in price?

A few pics of the restored tank. Looks like a good job but annoyingly they had to cut the cover off the swirl pot to refit through the sender hole.
shame they didn't cut it in half as i now have a section missing.
Any opinions on if this will affect anything? i cant think it will as the filter is still solidly held.

Hi, yes I would say it could have an effect, VW didn't design it with a big gap in it after all?. How much you will notice it is debatable though?.

Originally there was also a rubber flap on the bottom of that chamber to help prevent fuel starvation from what I understand, you don't mention if that was replaced as part of the refurb, that would have an effect also. However, I suspect that flap is long gone on everyone's tank by now. The only way your going to find out for sure is to give it go, I think it will be fine as long as you don't run the tank too low and decide to do some heavy cornering.

I went through the rusty tank replacement saga about 4-5 years ago, ended up with the replacement one from Heritage in the end. Not had a single problem with it since it was fitted. I think the only time it could be an issue if you were on a track day with a very low tank.

 

Should be fine in my opinion. I had my tank done by Hartlepool Radiators….same cutting to swirl pot cover…..I been running the car for 3 years no issue.

If it really bother you you can look into installing a pre pump filter, but finding a suitable location under the car is difficult

As it is I'm sure the filter is straining the fuel for the pump.

Also you still have another filter installed before the fuel metering head…..

.

Cheers brinz, part of choosing Hartlepool was off reading your thread. I'm going to stick it back in and see how it goes. Looking at non original tanks the pot looks so basic so I'm pleased I've gone this route. And it should last forever with the job they've done. 

No worries mate……it's just a cover of the swirl pot, even if it was intact and not cut, you still have fuel going through the gaps and it would be immersed in fuel anyway , as long as the filter is intact and straining as it should, it's ok in my opinion……I'm guessing the cover is to retain reserved fuel if the tank runs dry……it won't really get you that far thou lol, and we should not really run any car on reserve and push our luck….Not sure if replacement filters are available……I just did a visual check to ensure no tears and cleaned with fuel and stuck it back in…….plus fuel goes through a series of filtering and straining between the producer and distributors  anyway…..as long as it's good quality super unleaded of a good brand there should be no issue…… There are alot of online debates you see on supermarket fuel vs the likes of Shell / BP…..no doubt Shell / BP fuel quality is much better as I have experienced as the car feels more responsive.

Just keep car filled above 1/4 tank as we do normally and never let it run on reserve.