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Alternator belt replacement - lower timing belt cover

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Briano1234 said

Y'all call it copper Grease I think over there.
It is a Aluminum or Copper Grease that when slathered on the threads of a bolt helps it to stop corroding in metal to ease disassembly later on.  Whenever I am using a steel bolt in aluminum I use it.
I uses it on all suspension bolts that are subject to road salts or what ever.

Cooper and aluminum together causes galvanic corrosion, so it's most likely an aluminum based you use. Copper grease is not used that much here anymore (except by older people ;)), as there are better alternatives now… theoretically.

Anyway, that's all very theoretical. All my parts has arrived, so better get the old lady reassembled.

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I use copper grease on most bolts and nuts… and I'm old  :lol:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 300,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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mark1gls said

I use copper grease on most bolts and nuts… and I'm old  :lol:



Yeah, so have I been doing for many years without problems. It's all a bit theoretical.

New issue: just fitted everything back - water pump, timing belt and so on. Everything was on the marks, but the crank moved a bit when adjusting the tension.

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A1203088-B5F0-4206-8388-FC853362BCCA.jpeg


 I just fired her up, and now have a very loud ticking noise - sounds like it's coming from the valves. Is it due to the crank moving a bit when doing the tension? How to avoid it?

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The ticking noise disappeared on the second start - I guess one of the hydraulic tappets was a bit slow to set in motion.

I am curious on the moving crankshaft, though - could it be because I overtighten the tension pulley? I can twist the timing belt 1/4 between the cam and intermediate sprocket, but it's kind of subjective how much force I'm applying…

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Did you have to adjust the timing the to get it to start or have you driven the car yet as it might be lacking in power or the engine “pinks” under load.

Could be you are a tooth out on the cambelt as it should all line up once tightened.

I find the cambelt either goes on 1st time no problem or I spend ages getting everything lined up as it moves when you add the right tension.

If the belt is to tight it will sound like you have a supercharger fitted and wine away.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 300,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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No adjustment, it started up right away.

It doesn't jump a tooth. If I rotate the crank one tooth, it gives a bigger offset on the flywheel than what I see now.
I went through it three times, and noticed the last time, that when the "slack" in the belt is picked up by the tension pulley, the crank rotate just a little bit clockwise.
It makes sense, since the tension pulley "pulls" upwards when I adjust the tension.

The belt did start to squeal a bit after a minute or so running. I stopped the engine and slacked the belt a bit… I just realized that I didn't check the timing marks after slacking the belt… I better go have a look!

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Tried to hold counter on the crank while adjusting the tension pulley - but then the cam moves a bit backward.
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I'm doing it without the spark plugs fitted, maybe it would help to fit them before adjusting the tension?

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Cranks at 0 on the tranny finger.
Cam at the 0 mark.
Dizzy rotor in the middle of the hash stamp on the side frame.

Do not worry about pulley marks on the front to align the dizzy, just set it like I said and with that you should be good to go.



What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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I think it's a combination of a mild case of OCD, and over tightening the tension pulley.
I went through it all again a few times, and the cam always moves a bit backwards when tightening the tension pulley. I had to release the tension a bit, as the belt was whining as it heated up, so I obviously over tighten the pulley… it's running as it should, though.

Next step is to try and find a second hand timing light, as it "pops" a bit like it's overfueling.

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On 90ish Digifants, you can set the timing with a DVOM, no timing light or multiple people needed.

Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

I have done it this way for years.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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I'm a proud owner of a Pierburg!
Went through it a few weeks ago, and did all the adjustments mentioned in the service papers from Pierburg - runs quite well now. The spare parts are a bit expensive though, so if it causes too much problems, a Weber will be fitted instead.
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