K-Jet Experts - please help (latest update Pg 6!!)

Progress is progress, however small!

If it were me, I'd adjust the idle screw to try and get it running - by winding it out you should get the same effect as feathering the throttle (e.g. a bit more air).
Like you say, you can then mess with other elements.

J

Good, at least you've got it running.
I'm not sure if what you've done with a feeler gauge is accurate, I've only used it as a rough guide to make sure the timing isn't 180deg or so out.
I'm also fairly sure the belt being one tooth out would not cause the roughness you have now so have a go at the ignition timing first then check the valve timing.
There could be a way of checking it but with no mark on the pulley I can only think of taking the bolt out of the Vernier pulley, lining up the old pulley with it and transferring the mark.
If you can't get it to idle as paceman suggests loosen the distributor and get someone to feather the throttle while you turn it by hand until you get the smoothest spot.

If you do move the dissy make a mark where it is now so you can move it back to where you started.

yeah as above when I fitted a vernier sprocket I copied the mark over from an old one, in fact if you have an old one I'd suggest you swap that over to rule out any issues with the vernier just get the thing running standard then start fiddling about.

if the hella spark module didnt give you spark perhaps there is a bit of ropey wiring or loose pins around that area. if it really is bust then just send it back no problem.

try and get the ignition timing done first, as any adjustments to the timing will throw out your base idle and co settings so you dont want to waste a load of time doing that only to have to do it all over again

I think you're right Rubjonny, the only way to be certain is to fit the original cam sprocket and time the engine again. The reason I didn't do this before is that I sent everything away and Mr Crissell sent me back a fully assembled head inc the vernier. In hindsight, I would have been better sending the original cam sprocket too and getting Dave to mark up the correct timing mark while rebuilding.

Feels like a big step backwards to move forwards but as you say, I need to start from the correct base setting to give me a fighting chance.

Thanks to everyone for the continued support with this, the input from the forum has really been essential.

I'm sure its fine, just puts that little niggle in the back of your head to rest. once everything is running nice you can start vernier fiddling to your hearts content

This is really testing my patience now.  Thought I'd take a few pics in case there's something I'm missing.

Original cam pulley removed


Removed the vernier pulley and compared the 2, my timing mark looks to have been ok (I marked the tooth with the red paint, the actual timing indentation is between teeth so half a tooth off).



Once I'd marked the vernier with timing dot in black pen exactly as per original pulley mark, I refitted everything and re-timed the engine:-

Cam pulley


Crank pulley


Flywheel marker


Distributor lined up on No.1 plug lead with cut-out in dizzy body


Put everything back together expecting it to fire into life…..no joy.  She's just turning over, will give a pathetic attempt to fire if I pump throttle pedal.  I stopped when she did a loud pop back through the inlet manifold.  The timing light says I am still sparking ok.  The smell of fuel tells me there is petrol getting somewhere.  I tried adjusting the mixture again to see if I could find a sweet spot but no joy.

hmm, did you check the cam lobes were at the TDC position, same as the picture of your original head?

Yep, cam lobes both pointing up (i.e. valves closed)

The Cam shaft timing marks are set along the face of the head not the cam cover, it's hard to see from your picture if it's in line…

Have a look in this thread for cam timing marks..

View topic: Help confused- Timing marks - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

 

 No one else in Northern Ireland on here who can pop over to help or have a look over incase they spot something??

Just another thought you have the older style head with shims have you double checked all the clearances with a set of feeler gauges?
  

mark1gls said

The Cam shaft timing marks are set along the face of the head not the cam cover, it's hard to see from your picture if it's in line…

It's as per this diagram Mark, lined up with inner timing belt cover.

mark1gls said

Just another thought you have the older style head with shims have you double checked all the clearances with a set of feeler gauges?

I'll be honest, I never even considered this as the head was fully rebuilt by the Man in the Shed, and he re-shimmed it to match the Schrick cam.

Was just talking to my dad there, and he was wondering if the factory timing to TDC is maybe way out for the Schrick 276 cam and it may trying to ignite when valves are still open?
 Might explain that massive backfire through the inlet manifold on my last attempt to start.

It could be I guess. Must admit it does sound like valve timing but I'd be surprised if it was that far out. 276 isn't that aggressive. You'll need to be really careful if you adjust it as I noticed when building my engine up that a higher lift cam introduces the risk of piston-valve collision.
I'm sure I saw a post on club gti about setting valve timing on a performance cam. I'll see if I can find it again.

In fact I sent it to you before on another thread of yours! Is there a spec sheet for the cam that might help work it out? Doubt you'll be luck enough to find one that compares standard cam to yours though.

This is the cam I have

I've re-read that thread on Club GTI, and there is no suggestion that you;d have issues if you were running 'neutral' cam timing, whihc you will be based on the timing marks you've indicated. Looking at that spec sheet doesn't mean a huge amount to me,  however I think you'd have to be a long way out for it to not run at all. I think I mentioned before that in the past I timed a standard cam off the outer pulley mark (it was a loooooong time ago), probably 45 deg out. It wouldn;t start at all, got a bit of serious backfire at one point, but you could tell there was something very wrong. Your's doesn't sound that extreme.I reckon if it was you;d have bent a valve by now.

I think you're right Jason, I'm really just clutching at straws again. I wish there was a Crazyquiffs or similar over here. I think I've had enough now and am going to have to find someone to sort it out for me. 

I can understand the frustration - all the hard graft done, and then something comes along to scupper it!
I'm getting a bit panicy about mine now - it's still a ways off, but given I have far less new parts, and much more really old parts, I'm not filled with confidence!
Surprised there isn't someone over there that knows about these things.
Have you put anything on the FB group? - I think there are plenty of folk on there that never visit the forum.
Mad idea, but could you pull the metering head off that other one you've got and give it a go? That must be the only thing you haven't touched.