Cable harness 16v PL engine conversion

I'm in the middle of an engine conversion on my -87 cabriolet. I have both engine and ECUs with the engine cable harness.

The engine harness that came with the 16v engine does not have light bulb and battery connections so I need to keep some of the old engine harness. My understanding is that it was more or less plug n play if you hade engine with harness. But it looks like I have to seperate some of the old wires.

Have any of you done this before? What is the easiest way to go about this?

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Can I keep my fuse box?

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Any input is much appreciated! :-)

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what you have is a CE2 wiring loom, so it needs to be spliced to your old CE1 fusebox plugs. if you could source a CE1 pre-90 mk2 golf PL wiring loom, then it would plug straight in

heres a guide for abf ce1 swap, it works for you too just ignore the part about coil conversion as it already uses the same type as yours. dont think these use an ecu relay either?
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/ce1-abf-splicing-of-looms-help.249714/

rubjonny said

what you have is a CE2 wiring loom, so it needs to be spliced to your old CE1 fusebox plugs. if you could source a CE1 pre-90 mk2 golf PL wiring loom, then it would plug straight in

heres a guide for abf ce1 swap, it works for you too just ignore the part about coil conversion as it already uses the same type as yours. dont think these use an ecu relay either?
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/ce1-abf-splicing-of-looms-help.249714/

Thanks alot for your help! It means alot!

Ok, starting to get a tiny grip on this. Im thinking of geting a new fuse box engine plug ((D) white CE1) and splice the F, G1, G2 CE2 connector wires and crimp new connector terminals ro the new "D" connector.

Im going to keep the lighting loom and just remove all the engine management conncetors form the yellow (C) plug loom.


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if you get a new ce1 loom make sure the clock sensor wiring, wiper wiring, starter and coil power wires are all good as they can be run direct to the 16v as is, saves you a fair bit of splicing.

rubjonny said

if you get a new ce1 loom make sure the clock sensor wiring, wiper wiring, starter and coil power wires are all good as they can be run direct to the 16v as is, saves you a fair bit of splicing.

Hmm, I only have the actual D-plugg without the wiring.

Sorry for the stupid questions but where does the starter and coilwiring go?

I have made a document to get my head around it in some way.

GolfKoppling - Google Sheets

Please take a look and see if Im on the right track! Im thinking that most of the wires can go through the D-plugg (that needs a fuse or relay), dont know if thats acurate?

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If its just a bare D plug you'll need to transfer a lot of the ce2 wiring over and re-terminate.

Have a read:
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/

Plus if you click the link in my signature there's a ce1-ce2 spreadsheet. Plug F on ce2 has the starter motor, plug S is wiper motor, G1 and G2 have engine and dash wiring

rubjonny said

If its just a bare D plug you'll need to transfer a lot of the ce2 wiring over and re-terminate.

Have a read:
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/

Plus if you click the link in my signature there's a ce1-ce2 spreadsheet. Plug F on ce2 has the starter motor, plug S is wiper motor, G1 and G2 have engine and dash wiring

Yepp, my idea is to re-terminate all the wires on the D-plugg. I have bought new terminals for that but are unsure which wires that they need to be spliced into in the other end (after the fuse box) and which ones I do not need. So I guess I can trace them using your sheet CE1 - > CE2? That would be great!

Thanks for the input, I will redo the sheet after your thread link. I have used another one before but that one must have been faulty!

Many thanks!

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I have a few more questions:

F-plug
F/5 to C/18 - I have no trouble finding them but C/18 on my loom is red/blue but according to rubjonnys documentation it is suppoused to be red/black? I guess it does not mater but want to double check it.

F/6 & F/7 - Are they ok to skip?

G1-plug
G1/2, G1/5, G1/11 to clock loom, last one speedo (MFA) - Are they OK to skip, will not use MFA or MK2 cluster.
G1/3 to D/13 - Is not included in the loom, can I skip it?
G1/7 - comments in rubjonnys document is "ECU relay pin 5 (109 relay 85, 30 relay 86a). I cant find any existing relay mentioned in CE1 och CE2. Do I need to add something new?
G1/8 to E/14 - there are to wires, is it the red/white one that I am suppoused to use (warm up regulator?
G1/10 to R2 - Cant find R2 in my existing loom or fuse box. The old ECU had a small stand alone loom and did not run by the fuse box exept for two small wires. Does not look to be power. Do I run new power wires to G1/10?
G1/12 to D/26 - there are two wires in the old loom, which do I use? Do I keep the relay (the one marked with the number one on top in the picture)?

G2-plug
G2/1 - Can I use this fore an aftermarket oil temp guage since I dont have this in my dash?
G2/4 - Ignition live feed to various circuits, is this needed? D/2 is not pinned.
G2/5, G2/8 - are they ok to skip?



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C/18 should be live when cranking, wire colour does not matter but if worried easy to test with multimeter

F/6 & 7 is for reverse switch, you keep your original wiring for that

G1/2 is for the MFA outside air temp sensor, you keep the original wiring for this if car has MFA. G1/5 is the earth for the dash to the head, you crimp a female spade on it an d plug into the old dash earth if your car has the MFA. If it doesnt, you dont need this wire.

G1/11 is speedometer sender for MK3+ electronic speedometer, yours is mechanical so you bin this.

G1/3 D/13 is fuel pump relay trigger, you'll need to add this if you want to run the factory 67/80/167 relay to go with the PL ECU (slot 2) Or you can use a kjet 8v relay, just make sure its the non-limiter type. I always add this wire since the 67/80/167 relays are easier to find and cheaper to buy

The  PL engine doesn't use G1/7 or G1/10, it just has ignition live for ECU loom from D/2

Yes the G1/8 wire is cut and a female spade crimped on, which then plugs into the male spade on E/14. this wire feeds lambda probe heater on the PL, and used to feed the WUR on the 8v

G1/12 is the PL wire to coil negative for rev counter, ignore this and keep the original coil negative rev counter wire from D/26

Yes put a spade on the oil temp wire and you can run it to a VDO gauge or whatever

G2/4 -> D/2, D/7 or G spade 2 or 5.

G2/5 and 8 shouldn't be in use for the PL engine so ignore. Sounds like the PL was previously converted to CE2 using a mk3 set of fusebox plugs

rubjonny said

C/18 should be live when cranking, wire colour does not matter but if worried easy to test with multimeter

F/6 & 7 is for reverse switch, you keep your original wiring for that

G1/2 is for the MFA outside air temp sensor, you keep the original wiring for this if car has MFA. G1/5 is the earth for the dash to the head, you crimp a female spade on it an d plug into the old dash earth if your car has the MFA. If it doesnt, you dont need this wire.

G1/11 is speedometer sender for MK3+ electronic speedometer, yours is mechanical so you bin this.

G1/3 D/13 is fuel pump relay trigger, you'll need to add this if you want to run the factory 67/80/167 relay to go with the PL ECU (slot 2) Or you can use a kjet 8v relay, just make sure its the non-limiter type. I always add this wire since the 67/80/167 relays are easier to find and cheaper to buy

The  PL engine doesn't use G1/7 or G1/10, it just has ignition live for ECU loom from D/2

Yes the G1/8 wire is cut and a female spade crimped on, which then plugs into the male spade on E/14. this wire feeds lambda probe heater on the PL, and used to feed the WUR on the 8v

G1/12 is the PL wire to coil negative for rev counter, ignore this and keep the original coil negative rev counter wire from D/26

Yes put a spade on the oil temp wire and you can run it to a VDO gauge or whatever

G2/4 -> D/2, D/7 or G spade 2 or 5.

G2/5 and 8 shouldn't be in use for the PL engine so ignore. Sounds like the PL was previously converted to CE2 using a mk3 set of fusebox plugs

Thanks so much for all the help!

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I have further questions about the D26 negativ coil wire. Should I keep all the original wires and relay? One cable goes to the ignition coil and to the relay but from the relay goes two wires to a plugg which pluggs into a component in the engine bay (in the pictures, seems to be measureing vaccum). Should I keep that as well?

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you dont need any of that with the PL control units they take care of it all for you, so into the bin it all goes!

I would keep the relay holder its handy for stuff and things. maybe electric windows in future

rubjonny said

you dont need any of that with the PL control units they take care of it all for you, so into the bin it all goes!

I would keep the relay holder its handy for stuff and things. maybe electric windows in future

Excellent! Thanks, I will keep the relay holder!

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I have ordered a new fuel relay 191906383C (167) of Ebay that goes in slot 2 in my CE1 fuse box (D13 pin) I have another relay already in that slot. What do I with the old relay. I have no idea what it does, it looks kind of wierd looking..

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That is a fuel pump relay part number it looks as if some one placed a warning buzzer on it for lights left one, door chime…

Who knows what goes through the mine of the POS.

as above, kjet 8v fuel relay with limiter built in. the 8v limiter be a bit low for a 16v

I have three connectors in the CE2 loom that goes together with the ECU connectors. What should I connect those to?

The biggest one goes in the smal black box in the second picture. But the other two is a big question mark.

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middle 4 pin looks to be the connection between the ecu loom and the wiring back to the fusebox. If so:
red/white - lambda heater power to E/14 spade
red/yellow - fuel relay trigger to D/13
black - ignition live to D/2, D/7, G spade 2 or 5
red/black - probably connection to terminal 15a on starter, if so goes to pin 24 on the ECU

if the 3 pin has blue/grey, blue/yellow and blue/red wires it is unused. may be for diagnostics?