84 gti K Jet

Thanks for the feedback lads I have bled the system again today, The pedal feels a little better so I will repeat tomorrow and see if any better.I think I am going to have to keep bleeding , as mark said he had problems after changing the master cylinder. I will keep at it and let you know the outcome.Thanks again, Regards Dave W

hi all can somebody tell me if there is any connecting reason that the temperature and fuel guage should stop working together. Do they use the same fuse/relay. any ideas. Regards Dave W.

The fuel and water gauges aren't the issue.
They both use a 10V stabilizer on the rear of the cluster (clocks).

This would indicate to me that you have 1 of the 3 following issues.

Bad power to it.
Bad Ground to it.
or it is plain bad as there isn't 10V.



In the archive section How-to's there is a List of DIY's by briano I think it may include digifant . but in the 4 or 5th post there is a list of electrical DIY's (clink the Link in my Signature) and one is testing the gauges with a battery.

thanks for that Briano I will check that out to find out if that is the problem.Regards Dave W

Hi all ......Question, How difficult is it to replace the drive flange oil seals ,on my mk 1 in situ for a fairly confident diy mechanic Thanks and regards Dave W.

It's straight forward to change them but looking at what your doing and access is tight. You will need to undo the camber bolts or bottom ball joint to move the driveshafts out of the way.

Guide here to making a tool to remove the flanges, I found the hardest bit is getting the new C clip back on, it either goes on 1st time or you are fighting it as it pings off across the garage…

020 Flange

pictures etc of my home made tool and access. You will need to drain the oil from the gearbox so good time to change to fully synthetic gearbox oil, info in link…

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=technical%2Frunning-gear_2%2Fgear-box-crunch



 

thanks for tthat mark as per usual.i will give that a go and let you know how  I get on Regards Dave W

Mark I forgot to ask you, I am using Shell V power unleaded 99 octane in my golf, do you think the timing needs to be changed because its still not running that clever. Regards Dave W

interested in this one

you can probably add a bit more advance, its best top put it to factory settings to give you a base line then tweak it from there. saying that though I usually start at 8 degrees advance and work from there

Thanks for the reply John, the thing is I cannot get the timing light over the timing hole unless I take the air shroud off , and when I do the car will not run... Any suggestions.... Regards Dave W.

yeah its a little awkward, but have you unscrewed the plastic outer part?

alternatively if you get yourself a tight with an advance wheel you can use the tdc marker on the crank pulley

Hello, just a couple of questions. How easy is to change ,the drive flange oil seals in situ , and is there a bearing behind the flange or is it just the seals. Also I replaced the brake master cylinder on my golf gti And where you have four blank brake line entries  two are used for the lines and the other two have a screw bung in them one of them is leaking fluid. do they need a sealent or a fibre washer before being screwed in regards Dave W.

this site has all the gearbox info you'll ever need:
Welcome to BrokeVW.com

with the brake master the bungs should be fitted dry, if correctly made they are tapered at the base and this is what seals them to the hole in the master cylinder same as a bleed nipple or brake line. remove the bung and make sure theres nothing in the hole or any buurs on the bung which might be causing an issue. you could fit a bleed nipple in the hole instead and see if that stops the leak.

Thanks for that John The master cylinder has tapered holes but the bungs that I took from the old cylinder are not tapered so they just tighten onto the rough surface of the master cylinder ...not very good.and thanks for the info on the gearbox site very informative Regards Dave W

H everyone just I just have a minor question. Just started my golf. { its put away for the winter and I start it every couple of weeks} If you blip the throttle and as the revs die down to tickover, I get a very short buzzing from behind the instrument panel, and throil light comes on for a fraction of a second. It sounds like a buzz you get from a relay.Anybody have any idea what this could be.The vehicle is a mk 1 gti  cabby Thanks in anticipation Regards Dave Wi

low oil pressure at rpm over 2000…will cause a light on the dash, and a buzz behind the speedo.

Check your wire on the large white sender on the oil filter flange….

Then check your oil, and change it and the filter.

Thanks for the info Brian ,I will check that out and let you know the outcome Regards Dave W

Is the engine oil over 12 months old?

Hi mark, yes the oil is about three years old but the car has done no milage ,its in the garage and I start it every four weeks and run it for about 30 minutes at a time My last post stated that i had a buzzing coming from behind the instrument panel when I blipped the throttle,Well thats stopped and now it buzzes when I turn on the ignition and the oil light flashes ,but as soon as its running the buzzing stops. I did what brian suggested exept change the oil.surely that cannot be the problem. Thanks for answering my post mark .Regards Dave W