84 gti K Jet

handiman42 said

Just looking at a post on :fuel systems and exhausts; about changing injectors I had air shroud in mine and I changed to non air shroud Should I have changed the inserts as well Regards Dave W.HI  Mark I see your online , What do you think about the inserts…..Regards Dave W

I don't know as I've only ever changed my injectors like for like, air shroud with air shroud.

I would not attempt removing the inserts with the head still on the engine as they have plastic ends which over time go brittle, when I changed my inserts there was lots of bits falling off the inserts as you can see here.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=helllllpppp%2Fwhich-injector-inserts

Thanks Mark I think I will leave the inserts alone. I did put an allen key on one but it was so tight I thought afterwards .,Thats going to disintigrate,..But do you think it will make any difference leaving the air shrouded inserts in for the non air shrouded. there seems to be a lot of movement of the injector when it seated. Thanks for your input .Regards Dave.W.

Hi every one ,Iv,e been trying to find a repair kit for the front wheel cylinders for my Mk 1 1984 gti convertible tThe calipers are ate , and nobody seems to do them.Anybody have any ideas Thanks in advance Regards,Dave W.

if you go from air shrouded to non-shrouded you dont have to change the inserts, however you do have to block the nipple on the rear of the cylinder head otherwise you get an air leak.

front calipers are VWII, for 239mm discs. same ones are used on mk2 & mk3 golf and various seat/polo right up to 2002ish and maybe beyond. watch out for very late ones as they might have banjo bolts.

for repair kits VW still stock the parts for the guide sleeves but the piston seals are now NLA. speak to biggred.co.uk though they're sure to have everythign you need

Thanks for that John I will get onto biggred  Also do you think they would do thr flexy hoses for the fronts and would they have to be kelsey hays (ate) regards Dave W

flexi line you just want mk1 or mk2 golf 8v, available all over the shop just picked up some topran cheap off ebay look top notch

,Thanks again John  I will look at that and let you know how I get on .Regards Dave W

Hi, anybody got any good tips on removing the flexi bit of the front brake pipes on my mk 1 .I have got them off the caliper but the other end which joins the metal part of the pipe attached to the inner wing  I cannot undo, I do not want to force it as will easily twist the metal brake line, any suggestions will be appreciated. regards Dave w

1st thing spray lots of penatrating oil into the thread (proper stuff, not WD40) leave it for a bit to work.

Next if you havent already got one, buy a proper brake pipe spanner, like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312392978361

Then cut the flexi pipe so you can slip a ring spanner up it onto the joint flats so theres no chance of rounding that off either.  

Cross your fingers, and go  Worst case you'll have to make up another hard line section, its not hard to do yourself just make surte you get a good quality flare tool which can do DIN flares.  Or pull the pipe off and pop to local garage and ask them to make a new one up for you

Thanks John, Will have a go at that,I have already soaked it in penetrating oil  I let you know how it go,s Regards Dave W

Also Brush all exposed threads with a wire brush, and IIRC clean all hard lines of any corrosion behind the nuts so the nuts can spin and or slide easily.
I use Crocus Cloth or wire brush to polish the lines behind the nut.

Where the Hardline connects to the Frame at the top, you may want to use a backup ie: Small vice grips to hold the back side of the fitting.  I have had the dickens of a time or two on the rear rubber hoses.



 

Thanks for that Briano, I have got one side off after about 3 hrs . I have not got flexi hoses on the rears ,so hoping that will be a bit easier. Regards Dave W

hi all, Iv,e just replaced discs,front flexi brake pipes,new master cylinder on my mk 1. I have bled the system 4 times with a one man kit, still the pedal goes to the floor, press the pedal while the vehicle is not running and the pedal is hard ,but start the engine and the pedal again goes to the floor I have checked all connections and there are no leaks anywhere, no fluid  leaking from any of the calipers .Do you think it would be beneficial to bleed it the old way Thanks in anticipation Regards Dave W

Might be worth try bleeding it again, I had a nightmare to bleed the brakes when I replaced my master cylinder, in the end I had to bleed it from the connections on the master cylinder the old fashioned way of loosen the connection, foot on/off method, bit messy and be careful of spraying brake fluid about then onto the rear drivers side, rear passengers side, front drivers side then front passengers side...

sounds very complicated guys
has the problem been resolved

Thanks for that Mark,I will give that a go, do you think there is a fault with the servo, I checked it as per the haynes manual.Ie.holding the foot on the brake and then starting the car.The pedal goes down once started.Is there any fluid that runs through the servo ?? Regards Dave W

M/C's can leak in to the booster if the Push Rod Seal is gone.  the Vacuum in the Booster tends to exacerbate that.

I would bleed it again a time or two as it can be troublesome to get all the air out after a MC swap, if it still is wonky, then I would suspect that your new MC has issues.

I have had to replace new-remanned MC's more than once, and after that fiasco, I only buy new, or get a seal kit and re-build it myself.  Which is why I only buy local, and the last one I had to remove and replace I made sure that the Autoparts Store refunded me for the Brake Fluid I had poured through.

So don't discount that just because you replaced the MC it is good.

But from your description I would be suspecting the MC.

Google make your own power bleeder, make bleeding a one person job and tends to force all air out.  If you are using a "mity-Vac" and didn't wrap all the threads of the bleeder ports with teflon tape you can actually suck air in via the bleeder ports, and not suck fluid.

My home-made power bleeder is such a nice thing.

have you sussed the the braking bleeding problem
yet just interested how it is resolved cheers guys

handiman42 said

Hi every one ,Iv,e been trying to find a repair kit for the front wheel cylinders for my Mk 1 1984 gti convertible tThe calipers are ate , and nobody seems to do them.Anybody have any ideas Thanks in advance Regards,Dave W.

handiman42 said

Thanks for that Mark,I will give that a go, do you think there is a fault with the servo, I checked it as per the haynes manual.Ie.holding the foot on the brake and then starting the car.The pedal goes down once started.Is there any fluid that runs through the servo ?? Regards Dave W

hi surely fluid would not  run through the servo
if it did the vacuum would draw it into the inlet manifold due to the vacuum which the servo works with and burn it in the engine causing a plume of whiteish blue smoke from the exhaust

handiman42 said

Hi every one ,Iv,e been trying to find a repair kit for the front wheel cylinders for my Mk 1 1984 gti convertible tThe calipers are ate , and nobody seems to do them.Anybody have any ideas Thanks in advance Regards,Dave W.

hi what size caliper piston seals are you looking
for mate

handiman42 said

Thanks for that Mark,I will give that a go, do you think there is a fault with the servo, I checked it as per the haynes manual.Ie.holding the foot on the brake and then starting the car.The pedal goes down once started.Is there any fluid that runs through the servo ?? Regards Dave W

hi surely fluid would not  run through the servo
if it did the vacuum would draw it into the inlet manifold due to the vacuum which the servo works with and burn it in the engine causing a plume of whiteish blue smoke from the exhaust