no spark gggrrrrrrrr

Thanks wilko13 I'll start again, and try it all again, I just don't want to keep going through icm's if I've done something stupid  with the wiring to the icm so I keep blowing them, I'll update later 
Thanks again 

Also have u got the correct cap and rotor arm it took me three attempts for right rotor arm in the end I ditched the rev limiter one for a non limited one


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I'm not sure about the rotor arm I haven't got to that yet I know I got the sparks from the coil as I tested it from the lead and shocked myself twice but when I got to the plug lead nothing then went back to the coil lead and nothing so I'll keep going 👍🏻
Cheers 

Wire it up add a rotor arm add all the leads put all sparks in but one and earth one to the head and see what happens as that will make the circuit


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Well we had a spark for a while all th way to the plugs then went dead again and no spark, I'm gonna  go back to the earths and check all them again, just don't know, the spark didn't seem particularly big at the plugs but all four were sparking. Until I get that consistent spark  there's no point even getting onto the fuel side of it! 
Thanks again everyone and if anyone thinks of anything that I haven't tried please let me know I'm sure this restoration will start at some point in the next 10 years…….😫

timing… verify that the hall sender is functional.  

Thanks I checked the timing, couldn't find a mark on the cog so did it the old fashioned way with a screw driver in ignition 1, then found the mark and I was 5 mm out so rectified that, I thought the hall sender but the intermittences seem to be from the ignition coil so it's not even reaching the Sender? But that's my Train of thought? But I'm no expert, 
I'm gonna check the grounds again then ignition module 
Then the coil maybe the leads and start again! Failing that's a jerry can and cigar…… 
I'm dreading getting to the fuel issues……if I even ever get there lol 😂 

You will get there don’t give up.  Mine had so many problems when I bought it but I’m glad it did as learnt a lot about them especially the k-jet system


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Thanks I've learnt tons already mainly from everyone on here!!
 I completely redid the ground tonight and we got a good spark and had it for ages ( kept. Checking in disbelief!) then put all of he k-jet back on and no spark after trying to start it?? So it's not the grounds one thing I'm not sure on is my fuel pump isn't attached to a rely it justvattatched to the ignition so kicks in when I turn the key,! I am going to change it but thought I'd do it after getting everything else sorted could that effect the spark? Drawing to much power for the pump ?? 
I just don't what else to try ? 

check voltage to the coil live terminals both with ignition on and while cranking

Thanks guys we have spark shot be across the garage ⚡️⚡️

Worz8 what was the problem in the end mate? I'm not getting a spark on the same engine dont know what to try first was thinking just buy a new coil relatively cheap and cross my fingers but at same time dont want to waste time or money really.

Cheers

What was the fix?
I get no spark when cranking then  one fat spark when key going back to position one from two. Got 12+ volts from coil that drops to v 10+ on cranking. This is from + terminator to battery negative. Checked all earths. Ok

Found a test on YouTube  search MK1 golf ignition test. Turns out I had a loose connection on TCI unit. Reb black wire to distributor.

Hey Guys,

I'm having an issue with a loss of spark while I'm driving the revs drops down to low revs and then goes back up. I put new spark plugs and leads. I tested the ignition module, I also changed the rotor so what could be my possible issue? Please can you'll assist I would really appreciate it.

You should of started a new post not adding to a existing one that is 5 years old.

You need to include a few more items, as in
Model: Golf, GTI, Caddy, Cabriolet
Year: 1970-1993
Engine Type: 2H, DX…
Fuel Type: Carbed, CIS, Digifant
LHD or RHD some of us are in the US
Transmission Type Auto or Manual and then 4 or 5spd Tranny code is great to know as well.

With that said:  
Have you tested or replaced your main Grounds?
Battery-to-frame-to Engine/Tranny.
is there a ground wire from the right rear Valve cover stud to the Coil Strap?

Is there a loud Whine from the RH Drivers Axle when this happens?

More specifics may be needed before further assistance is given.  

From all indications it is probably Electrical but Fuel and Vacuum also come in to play.

Sorry I didn't think about looking at dates..

I have the coil earthed

I have a RHD, 5 speed manual gear box that sits on the passenger side of the engine bay 1.3 gy block carburetor engine

Golf 1 citi 1986

I did have a fuel problem so possibly my fuel filter needs to be changed but previously a while back it used to happen and then it stops and now it is happening again , when previously it was happening the leads were rusting so I put new plug leads and spark plugs , any other information would you need? I'm still able to drive and starts with the first swing

you don't strictly need that extra earth to the coil, it doesn't actually do anything for the running of the engine as the outer shell of the coil has no electrical contact with the bracket (originally, as all VW coils were painted) mine was missing for over a year before I got round to replacing it and it made no noticable difference whatsoever

the tintop MK1 didnt even have this strap, it was added on later models. all I can think is its there for radio interference suppression, same as the earth straps you often see added to the distributor

for your issue does the engine fully cut out, or just run rough or 'holds back' when you try to press the accelerator? does the rev counter start behaving erratically at the same time or does it just fall?

Thank you for reply, it runs rough and holds back. I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the front and it still does the same thing. I'm thinking could it be the needle and seed in the carb that is giving me this issue? Cause at first I thought I was loosing spark but I change everything that had to do with spark and I still have the same issue.

yeah I'd look at the carb for sure, has the seal flange between it and the inlet been checked? these are prone to cracking with age.

if yours is a later citi does it have the 1.3 which is based off the big block design with inlet and exhaust manifolds on the back? if so look at the front strap supporting the airbox, if its anything like the euro 1.6-1.8 carb if thats missing the large airbox puts a strain on the rubber flange as the engine moves and makes them fail prematurely