DX to ABF conversion wiring

Well i don't know what i did, just unplug the 2 sockets on the immobiliser put them back in and it starts fine now!

coolio! get yourself another key reader as well, mine did this intermittantly say once every 2 months or so. new key reader and all sorted

rubjonny said

6 - only required if you want a digi type pump relay, if you use a k-jet relay then this is triggered by the rev counter signal instead. 2 relay has no rev limiter too which is what you want 7 - yep pop that to the spade hanging out of C/18

8 - this runs to the TCI unit pin 6, which is usually green/white 9 - yep, pin 86a on ecu relay

22 - mk3 dash rev counter signal, wont work mk1 dash/pump relay so not used

23 - yep, pin 87 on ecu relay

35 - nope not needed

38 - any ign live feed. D7 is fine, relay 43 is the coolant level control relay and the wire to the tb was probably for the cold throttle enrichment system.

51 - mk3 mpg signal for mfa

yep you got the ecu relay wiring spot on. pin 30 doesnt have to be fused but it can be if you like. i never bother though

From “DX to ABF conversion wiring”

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Jonny- i have been happily snipping away wires I don't need in accordance with the above and the post it responded to originally. That was until I came to ECU pin 38, which the original post says was a black and white wire, however mine is red & blue, and it goes to the hall sender plug.  Help please!  I am finding the guides useful, but I am converting mk1 from 16v kr to abf, so all is not quite so clear. Battling on though, just praying you don't now tell me I have screwed up!

Whilst I am on, a few other queries if you dont mind:

Speedo- want to keep mk1 clocks. Can i fit 02y gearbox speedo to an 02a somehow?

Driveshafts- I have read somewhere that the 100mm cups are longer than the 90mm ones. I thought it was just a case of swapping the inner cv joints and I was away- am I missing something?

MFA- am I right in thinking the MFA will work from the inlet manifold vacuum and the speedo-assuming the answer to my speedo query is yes?

Immobiliser- the mk3 I broke had the ignition ring thing hanging lose behind the cowling, which I assume indicates it has been deactivated. Would you agree-how can I check/whats the worst case scenario for sorting it out, i.e. getting car running, not having immobiliser functioning

Finally- purely out of interest rather than necessity, and with the fear of embarrassing myself  if I have not done so already: how do you separate the big multiplug? Cant fathom it for life of me.

Many thanks

pin 38 is definitely ignition live, did you trace the wire all the way to where it goes? also its easy to get the pin numbers wrong if you count up instead of down etc i do it all the time pin38 should run back to the fusebox pin G2/4. g2/4 also runs to the carbon canister, and the isv this could be where you got confused. I dont think i have ever seen the wire red/black, but its possible I guess. usually its black or black/blue.

Hall sender wires are 67 and 68…

speedo, unscrew the 3 pin plug from the back of the 02a/j sender, then fit a mk1 1.3 speedo cable matched to the age of the car/clocks (speedo fitting changed)

yes you have to swap the whole shafts for cabrio/scirocco 100mm ones. the shafts arnt quite the same length and also the circlip is in the wrong position for 100mm cvs to fit. if you have access to a lathe you can grind the part of the shft the inside of the cv butts up against, till you have enough clearance. you need to measure the distance from a 100mm shaft carefully from the inner edge of the cv clip to the lip on the shaft, so as to have the correct clearance. there is a spring washer on the inside of the cv which puts it under tension so its not a case of make the cv a tight fit to the circlip!

mfa, yes all works as before

immobiliser worst case you'll need to get a matched immob box and chip from another mk3 or similar age seat/polo etc. get the wiring as well if the donor mk3 is now gone, then splice it in. then its a 2 minute job to match the immob box to the ecu with vag-com.  if you have the mk3 golf key and immob box then you should be ok. of course the alternative is have the ecu sent off for immobiliser defeat, but this costs more moneys (depending on how cheap scrappy is for the immob box and if you find one!)

if you mean the one between main loom section and engine loom section, you have to twist the main loom side clockwise then it will release. if you look closely at the main loom side you'll note a faint red line on both parts, you need to twist it so they align then it will split apart. then when you refit line up the red line on the main side with the line on the engien side, then twist firmly till it clicks to lock in place. they can be properly tight though!

thanks for help!

I was miscounting-D'oh!  38 is indeed b & w

67 & 68 go to a plug I had labelled as throttle when stripping it. This clearly is incorrect though, not just  because you have told me so, but because the plug is one of the three which attach to the bracket with the engine multiplug in it.  42 & 43 go to plug I labelled hall sender. The size and shape of the plug seems right for the hall sender, whereas that on 67 & 68 is too big and the wires aren't long enough?

I guess the gti speedo I used in 02y box is wrong size?

I still have the rest of the loom. The immobiliser box's 3 wires brown goes to individual plug, brown & white to individual plug and black to multiplug. I take it I cut it off the multiplug but how do I fit it to hybrid loom? Also isnt the vagcom part of the dash loom which I am not using anymore in accordance with the guidance youve posted on the various forums? I would like to have it of course, so any pointers on that gratefully received too!

Ill stick to proper 100mm shafts- dont rte my lathe skills!

thanks again for support!

42 is lambda sensor wire, 43 is ecu diagnostics? pin counting skills need work I think

yeah cut the black wire off the green plug, this needs ignition live. the brown wires need to go to earth somewhere, then you're left with 2 diagnostic wires 1 connects to ecu, the other pops into the diagnostics jumpe block above the fusebox.

the vag-com port is taped up in with the dash loom but its only 4 wires, start at the port and chace them back. the grey/white and yellow go back to the diagnostics jumper block, try to get them out without cutting. the red/white and brown splice into the ciggy lighter so follow them back to the splice then cut out. then its a case of give them live and earth, i use ciggy lighter to be factoery but anywhere you liek is fine. ign live is also ok, the diagnostics wont work unless ign is on anyway

rubjonny said

42 is lambda sensor wire, 43 is ecu diagnostics? pin counting skills need work I think

yeah cut the black wire off the green plug, this needs ignition live. the brown wires need to go to earth somewhere, then you're left with 2 diagnostic wires 1 connects to ecu, the other pops into the diagnostics jumpe block above the fusebox.

the vag-com port is taped up in with the dash loom but its only 4 wires, start at the port and chace them back. the grey/white and yellow go back to the diagnostics jumper block, try to get them out without cutting. the red/white and brown splice into the ciggy lighter so follow them back to the splice then cut out. then its a case of give them live and earth, i use ciggy lighter to be factoery but anywhere you liek is fine. ign live is also ok, the diagnostics wont work unless ign is on anyway

Damn me! I meant 45 & 44! What are they for?

the immobiliser wire which goes to the diagnostics jumper block- what do I do with that? Do I transfer the block to ce1 fuseboard, and doesn't it need the other wires that are connected to it to function?

thanks

the diagnostics jumper block just unclips from the top of the fusebox,. look closely at it and you'll see the clips. then it should clip onto your old fusebox

you will only need the immobiliser box wire and the diagnostics port wire. the other wires are for things liek abs and and airbags etc, which obviously you wont need.

44 and 45 are actually for the hall sender, I made a fail 67 and 68 are for the crank sensor

yay! you're human! I'm relieved on two fronts!

Many thanks Jonny!

hehe, get on de case my lad sooner you are done the sooner you can go out and terrorise some modern sheiote cars

haha indeed- its been a long time in the makin- rebuilt shell in 2011, put kr in in 2012, but never got it running right, spat my dummy out and left it under a cover for months and only now getting round to progressing. got a mk2 kr for some fun in mean time.

thanks again. no doubt I'll be after some more pointers shortly!

Jonny, I have a wire at fuseboard end from ecu pin 51- what is that for please? Do you have an ecu pin out list or diagram you could share please? Surely these aren't all just stored in your head! I have followed your links but the document called abfecu does not have tthat info
thanks

pin 51 is the mpg signal for the mk3 clocks, it took me a long time to find that one out as its not listed anywhere!

i do have another diagram from autodata but that doesnt show anything the vw diagrams in my sig dont already

Right! Jonny to the rescue for the umteenth time I hope!

as a reminder: I am converting mk1 kr to abf, including the mk3 gearbox. I have followed the array of guides by your goodself, toyotec etc as far as possible, but all of them are for slightly different applications in one way or another, so along with the fact I am perhaps not very switched on, I have rather a lot of questions outstanding. Here goes (deep breath):

1) The large white 6 pin plug which the kr ignition control module connects to-(forgive my obvious stupidity) this gets ditched right?

2) Assuming I am right, everything it connects to gets ditched too right? There is another 2 pin white plastic plug (T-shaped) with a white and a white/black wire, which come from the KR ISV plug. I take it that gets ditched too?

3) The ABF ISV wires, again white/black and white: the white goes to the ECU, what do I do with the other?

4) In a couple of related threads, including earlier in this one I think, there are queries relating to the relay holder attached to the CE1 D plug, but they all seem to differ from mine. It has a relay number 24 in it, so I think it is coolant level sensor etc? If this relay holder is to be used for ECU relay, what happens to coolant level sensor wires? Also I have taped a yellow/red wire from a temp sensor on side of ABF block to a yellow/red going into this relay, indicating I need to solder them together-whcih I must have read somewhere. Help!?

5) This is related to question 2 but for clarity; D13 (red/yellow) goes to a black 2 pin T plug which I believe is a fule pump earth trigger, which I guess is still required? However the other black/yellow wire attached to the black 2 pin plug goes to the large white 6 pin plug for the KR ignition control module-help?!

6) I have a black wire and a blue/white wire which I marked up as connecting to a plug to the rear of the gearbox; what are they for and where do I put them?

7) This one is tricky, partly because of the two CE1 engine looms I have, the best one is not great (and theyre both slightly different, so can't find answer to question from the other). I have at the fuseboard end a black T shaped female two pin plug, with a red/white wire which goes into the engine bay but is not connected to anything-what is that for. The other wire is green/black and connects to temp sensor on back of KR block iirc. Given the third sensor on the oil filter housing on the ABF is green/black, should that replace the KR green/black here and if so, where does it connect to?

Cheers-eagerly awaiting your response-dying to get this bottomed out and in the car!

1. yes
2. yes
3. it runs to g2/4, which is ignition live feed
4. coolant level relay is 42 or 43, 24 is a std switched relay. what colour are the wires to the holder? if the socket is for the coolant level then someone has fitted the wrong relay in the past. the coolant level sensor wires run direct to the relay.
and yes, the coolant temp wire from sensor on the head goes to this relay socket
5. yes, it should be spliced to g1/3 wire on the abf loom. the black/yellow is not needed
6. if thats on the abf loom probably the speedo sensor? if so you wont need it if you are using mk1 dash
7. mfa outside temp sensor and oil temp sensor. you need a mk1/2 outside temp sensor and i think the mk3 oil temp sensor is also different? use the kr oil sensor in the filter housing, then crimp a spade on the abf black/green wire. the outside temp 1 wire goes to the red/white, the other is just earthed somewhere

thanks RJ

3) which ign live should I attach it to then?

4) relay has four pins connected, no.s 4, 5, 6 & 8. Pin 4 has 2 brown wires, no. 5 has a blue/brown which goes to the coolant reservoir. Pin 6 has a black and a black/yellow. the black goes to a 3 pin plug which I think is the throttle position switch. The black/yellow goes to D/7.Pin 8 has a yellow/blue and a yellow red. The yelow/blue goes to D/29 and the yellow/red goes to a plug on side of head (temp sensor?) Sorry but please spell out what happens with this and the coolant wires if using this for ECU relay. & btw which relay is to be used?

5) Having cut off the ABF plugs, I am not sure which is G1/3, but I hope/assume it is the yellow/blue I have already splised to it?

7) Where is the outside temp sensor on mk1/2? So I unscrew kr oil sensor and use it to replace the 3rd abf one? The black female 2 pin plug I use the red/white for the outside temp sensor and the green/black gets earthed-or am I misinterpreting?

thanks again!!

3. one of the spades on the back of the fusebox (check first, they arnt all ign live) or d/2 or d/7

4. yes thats the coolant level relay. bin the 24 relay its wrong, you need a 42/43. in the short term you can just leave it empty, the coolant temp will work but the level warning will not. the red/yel to side of head is coolant temp sensor, you splice this wire to the abf temp sensor wire, red/yel to g2/3.

you'll need another relay holder for the ecu relay if you want the coolant level warning to work! use a 30 relay mk3 abf/gti ecu relay. g1/10 goes to pin 87, g1/7 to 86a, ignition live to 86, live to 30 and earth to 85.

5. yes its blue/yellow

7. inner wing passenger side in mk2, mk1 its clipped inside of bumper. red/white to outside temp sensor, green/black to oil temp sensor, and the brown/white to outside temp sensor needs to be earthed

Cheers fella- working my way through your guidance.


1)On a 2 pin plug which I think didn't do anything when running kr, I have a black/yellow wire whcih comes from D/02 and a brown/black which I think I have just cut off from the white ignition control plug. What do I do with these-get rid?

2) Another black two pin plug with a black and a white wire which I don't think was connected to anything when running kr. The black goes to a spade on/near starter motor and continues to blue 5th injector plug. I get rid of all these too right?

3) Sorry I know I am probably making a t*t of myself here, but as you can tell I am very nervous of having to try to undo a mistake This seems obvious but want to check, as I think I have read elsewhere about chopping two wires out of a three pin plug. Anyway question is: three pin plug which I think is throttle connection from kr (black, white & black/yellow) I ditch this and all wiring right?

4) Coil connection from D/23 stays right?

youdaman

Jonny- when you say green/black goes to oil temp sensor, I assume you mean the third sensor on oil filter housing right? This is the one I swap with one from kr if I understood correctly, but which of the two on the kr should it be?

ECU relay pin 30 is a live feed- I take it I just put a spade on it and get a feed off back of board right?

I am hoping (though not for first time) that your next lot of answerss will allow me to actually put the damn harness in the car!

Cheeaz