Calling all professional painters - attempting DIY full car

Paint jobs are all about the prep, most painters I know don't like to touch self prep stuff.  Usually a pros idea of a prepped car is hugely different to a lay mans.

In the event of a problem the painter will blame the prep and wipe their hands of the job or may not even offer a warrenty.

Using 2k at home is still no a good idea, it stinks and the smell hangs around for ages.  Celly is a better choice really, although more prep is needed and an isolater is a good idea.

I'm not a pro painter but using laqqer over a colour coat seems like a bad idea, if the paint fades in a couple of years time then you won't be able to  polish the colour back into the colour coat as the laqquer will be covering it.


Like I say I'm not a pro but I have been doing home resprays for a few years now.

Painting is load tricker than it looks, everything happens pretty fast and its easy to screw it up.

Stick loads of paint on, that way you can flat and polish the tits out it, thats the best way. Dust and crap is unavoidable, what ever you do it will get in the paint job and theres usually at least one fly.

I've found that lining the garage with cheap tarps seem to pull the dust and overspray to them,




This the MGB I've just done in celly.

This is also quite a nice guide as well..

http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=usetharch&action=print&thread=48784

Hi,

Before I can get to paint my car as per this thread I have a major task in the engine bay to tackle. I started this 2 years ago. Basically ground a lot of the rust out in the engine bay and covered most of it with epoxy mastic (stuff from rustbuster). Some of it I didn't get around to applying the expoy and just sprayed on some Krust type stuff. I am really regretting not applying the epoxy as all the rust I spent ages removing (wire wheel, Deox gel etc.) has come back, hopefully it is mainly suface rust.

Anyway, here are some pics from two years ago when I prep'd the slm pannel and applied the epoxy.

Under the pannel with some holes welded up





Top. Bare metal.


Top with epoxy





So now the problem is is that (you may be able to see) that I applied the mastic straight on to the matal with a brush and in some parts it is thicker and some it is thiner and you can see brush strokes. I have spent all day trying to flat it down, mainly using 120, 240 and 400.

After rubbing







Hopefully, you can see that the epoxy is smoother. However, there are a few problems:
1. There are still some brush strokes- I assume high build primer would not fill it so was thinking of applying some filler (very thinly). Is this the right thng to do?
2. At some points I have gone through to the metal. Is it ok to spot apply etch primer from a rattle can? Or do I apply mastic again (but this will mean more flating)?

Advise welcome.
Cheers,
D

Shiftyseamus "most painters I know don't like to touch self prep stuff". This is just were I'm at. Had a local guy come out for a rough price and am now in the position as to how much prep I do to keep the price down.

Had experience restoring old triumph tr sports cars years ago but still keep thinking how far do I go. So far I'm just taking the rust spots back to bare metal and covering with some oxide primer to keep it at bay. But where large areas have been primed I can see the odd ripple and low spot so maybe will use a guide coat and let then sort it out at least that way I have pointed out these areas to be sorted and wont come across any warranty issues once done.

Will da the rest of the car and get him back out to check and go through the nitty gritty regarding warranty and work needed.

DAG4R

I would use some 120 grit paper on that and spray over with either etch primer or oxide primer then just wet flat it. At least you have you engine out which is still on my list (thats as long as my arm).

Will, try a bit more epoxy mastic (thinned a bit more than usual) on a small section first as I'll have to mix some more up after today's activity:

Chassis leg with gearbox mount (battery tray removed) before:

IMG_6004 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Used a drill with wire wheel to get to bare metal above AND below chassis leg:

IMG_6021 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6023 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Used a degreaser to wiped down the exposed metal. Then applied Dinitrol rust converter:

IMG_6028 by dherajdagar, on Flickr
The rust converter comes in a aerosol so it reaches the parts I couldn't get to with the wire wheel (live bits of the mount.

Leaving it over night to dry before I apply more epoxy mastic.

Also did a bit on the lower inner valence before applying the rust converter:

IMG_6029 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After letting the Dinitrol rust converter to dry over night, I thought I'd apply epoxy mastic.


IMG_6031 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6033 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6032 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

I added another coat of epoxy to the slam pannel and the lower valence.

More grinding tomorrow… though not sure what needs to be done about a few holes where the valence meets the inner wing:

IMG_5801 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Any ideas?

So today, back to the grind- literally.

Stating with off side chassis leg:

IMG_6033b by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Close up of top where it meets the suspention turret:

IMG_6035 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After a little grinding.

IMG_6034b by dherajdagar, on Flickr

More grinding

IMG_6038 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Decided to make the top of the spot welded chassis leg section a bit more level and smooth around some of the spot welds.
Before

IMG_6040 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After

IMG_6041 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6039 by dherajdagar, on Flickr



IMG_6037 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Over to the near side chassis leg:

IMG_6043 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6050 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Will have to drill out the spot welds for the expansion tank bracket at some point. Just removed the metal clip thing for today.

IMG_6045 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

More smoothing of the top of the spot welded section to make it a bit more level and smoothed some more around a few of the spot welds, again.
Before

IMG_6047 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6048 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After

IMG_6049 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

All done

IMG_6046 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6051 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Applied Dinitorl rust converter to both chassis legs (after degreasing):
Before

IMG_6052 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After

IMG_6053 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Will be applying seam sealer where the legs meet the turrets, hopefully tomorrow before applying the epoxy mastic.

looking good mate  

Etch should really only go over bare metal, painting it over filler or other paint is asking for trouble.

It really only needs to be a thin coat as well.

Today, you guessed it- more grinding. Didn't have time to apply any more epoxy mastic as I spent about 4 hours just grinding away at the offside engine mount and then applying seam sealer.

Before:

IMG_6054 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6055 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Under the mount:

IMG_6057 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6058 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


After:

IMG_6064 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6066 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Chassis legs degreased and ready for seam sealer:

IMG_6067 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6068 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Seam sealer applied:

IMG_6071 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6070 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Only have a few hours on Sunday to work on the car so will just apply the expoy mastic over the bits that I've ground to bare metal (chassis legs above and mount below).

IMG_6072 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Shiftyseamus said

Etch should really only go over bare metal, painting it over filler or other paint is asking for trouble.

It really only needs to be a thin coat as well.

Hi. I am using two products.

Initially is was applying epoxy mastic (this one: http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm) to bare metal. It is intended for this purpose.

Recently I have been applying Dinitrol rust converter (  http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-products/dinitrol-converust-rc900-rost-off-primer-aerosol.html) because some parts are impossible to get to with a wire wheel on a drill to grind out. Even if I can get to it I suppose there could be "invisible/ very small" amounts of iron oxide on the surface so I have just sprayed all the bare metal. Again, it is over paintable (and I'll only paint over it with the epoxy mastic).

For large areas like the roof (if I go to bare metal and if it is solid) I'll apply etch primer before anything else.

Thanks,
D

Today, only managed to paint over the bits I prepared over the last few days, including the seam sealer (which is over-paintable).


IMAG1301 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMAG1303 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMAG1304 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Not sure when the next update will be…

Decided to tackle the rest of the off side (driver's side) chassis leg.

Before:

IMG_6077 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6078 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6083 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6085 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After:

IMG_6095 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6096 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6097 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

This was the state of one of my wire wheels after finishing:

IMG_6093 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

I used a magnet (wrapped in plastic) to pick up a load of the wirewheel wires that usually end up stabbing me:

IMG_6086 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Part of the chassis sections had a larger gap than I liked so used a clamp to close it up slightly.
Before:

IMG_6091 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After:

IMG_6092 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Degreased the exposed metal and sprayed the Dinitrol rust converter, leaving to dry over night. Hopefully will paint with epoxy tomorrow.

Some more tricky bits need to be delt with… not sure how though.

IMG_6074 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6076 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Last Sunday, didn't get the chance to post an update on the progress that day.

Worked on the remaining part of the near side chassis leg.

Before:

IMG_6113 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6114 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6119 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6116 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After:

IMG_6125 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6126 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6124 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Decided to tidy up the spot welded top part of the chassis leg.

Before:

IMG_6120 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After:

IMG_6121 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Left it at that last week.

Today, removed the bracket for the water/ coolant bottle.

Before:

IMG_6128 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After:

IMG_6129 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6130 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Didn't manage to update a few weeks ago with the pics of the painted chassis legs.


IMG_6133 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6132 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6131 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

So didn't have the most productive days yesterday… was one of those where you want to chuck it all in.

Plan was to get the steering rack off first.


IMG_6140 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6139 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Spent over an hour trying to remove one of the tierod ends attached to the steering rack from the hub. The NS one popped out really easily.

The OS one was a REAL pain. I tried hammering it first then jacking it up (with trolley jack under the tierod bolt). I didn't budge. Was trying to avoid the ball joint remover wedge tool as I knew it would chip the powder coated hub.


IMG_6141 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

In the end I had to use the ball joint remover and it eventally worked.

Removed the rack and looked at the excessive seam sealer on the turrets. I thought I'd have a go at smoothing the ecxess down.

Before

IMG_6143 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

During

IMG_6144 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6145 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After

IMG_6146 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Still needs work but I stopped as I got really fed up. Takes asges to smooth (using 60 grit glass paper). There wasn't much sealent on the edge of the turret lip and I've got to the metal.

I'me thinking it may be easier to grind all the sealer off and just start again. What do people think?

I think you did very well to get that sealer looking like that after sanding, its horrible rubbery stuff isnt it!

I would personally just wire wheel it all off and start again, got to be so much easier, less time consuming and far less mind numbing!

Keep going though and you'll get there eventually

Rich

Thanks for the encouragment Rich. Yours looks super smooth. I'm not planning to go to that extreme. You have removed all the clips for holding the fuel and brake lines- how do you plan/ or how did you secure the lines and any other bits?
Cheers,
Dheraj