83 Gti set to get full resto
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Settled In

My 83 Gti set to get full restoration
keep up the good work and thanx to everyone else who have shared there experiences on here it gives me confidence to start the body work on my projects
Old dubs never die, they just get lower
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Moderator



smudger1980 said
Mk1 love…………..![]()
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Right on Smudger!!
dik-van-dub said
out of all the threads on here i like this one the most, its most informative thread i have found on doing body work repairs.
keep up the good work and thanx to everyone else who have shared there experiences on here it gives me confidence to start the body work on my projects
Cheers mate, You're right too, there's some great people here who are always willing to help, I'd like to thank them too!
If you've got any questions regarding work to your own car, don't hesitate to ask!
Andy.
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Local Hero



Search for "body file holder" and "dreadnought file". That should point you in the right direction.
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Local Hero



These course files keep the lead particles large enough to drop them from the atmosphere onto the floor. I would still wear a mask though!
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I'm just about done with the n/s arch now, I've been getting a couple of hours each night this week, don't want to rush it!
Regards, Andy.
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I've been working on the N/S rear outer arch for the past week or so, grabbing a couple of hours where I can. Finally got it to a stage where I can finish it off with some lead. I've never done leading before and will be giving it a go over the Easter weekend

Here's some pics…….
First few spots

holes for spot welds on the arch lip

bit further on


Almost done, arch has no warpege at all


Lead kit arrived this morning

I also made a start on O/S Chassis leg/Axle mount, it's in a right state lol




Removed chassis leg and offered new one up, it's a good fit apart from the panel has an extra cut out for something, not sure what though?

This view you can see the extra cut out which I will patch over before fitting.

More pics of the rot



After a bit of a clean up

These are a few of the things I will be looking at over the Easter break. I'll have another update on Monday night hopefully.
Cheers all, Andy.
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Local Hero


Regards your lead kit, let me know if you have any questions regarding the application of the flux etc.
The important bit now is not to get too much heat in it when applying the lead and undo all the good work so far!
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Moderator




One thing I was wondering about is that the new arch is galvanised, I've cleaned the area where I will be leading but there might still be traces. I'm hoping that the tinning process might help.
I've been watching video's on youtube to get an Idea of what to do. Like you say though, I'm just going to have to be careful not to put too much heat in.
Here's the vids I've been watching
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7pM6Fndahc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ObHnhpl6UQ
Regards, Andy.
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Local Hero


Nothing worse when the lead won't stick on a place that you need it as it makes it hard work.
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Andy.
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Local Hero



You'll be an expert by the time you've sorted that!

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Hats off to you Andy for taking that on.

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Local Hero




Where did you get the lead kit from? Been looking at buying one too.
Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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Local Hero


Hairyarse said
Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?
Never used one so can't comment.
Lead is Ok if treated with respect and the right health precautions / methods taken.
Frosts do a lead kit.
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Local Hero


He forgot to put tallow on the paddle at the beginning but yea thats pretty much how you do it.
I can tell you have a good feel for metal so you'll soon get the hang of it.
If you need to, you can add a little bit of water to your flux over time otherwise it can thicken, leaving the lid off etc.
I would also use a whurly wirewheel on your spot welds lightly just to remove those last bits of engrained carbon deposits around the welds. Although the acid in the flux will also clean you want that to have to do minimum work ideally.
It looks like you only have one flat paddle with your kit. A half round one is needed ideally as well to get around the inside radius of the arch (above where you spot welded)
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Local Hero




Yomp said
Hairyarse said
Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?
Never used one so can't comment.
Lead is Ok if treated with respect and the right health precautions / methods taken.
Frosts do a lead kit.
Cheers Yomp
(Sorry for the thread hijack Andy! )

Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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Old Timer

Keep up the good work.
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Moderator



I bought mine off ebay as I forgot about frosts. Frost is cheaper and it has the half round paddle in the kit that mine didn'tHairyarse said
Great work Andy, looks great!
Where did you get the lead kit from? Been looking at buying one too.


No worries about the hi-jack mate, it's all good info!!
Andy.
There are too many online users to list.