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83 Gti set to get full resto

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My 83 Gti set to get full restoration

out of all the threads on here i like this one the most, its most informative thread i have found on doing body work repairs.
keep up the good work and thanx to everyone else who have shared there experiences on here it gives me confidence to start the body work on my projects

Old dubs never die, they just get lower

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smudger1980 said

Mk1 love………….. :wub:  :wub:  :wub:  :wub:  :wub:  :wub:

Right on Smudger!!





dik-van-dub said

out of all the threads on here i like this one the most, its most informative thread i have found on doing body work repairs.
keep up the good work and thanx to everyone else who have shared there experiences on here it gives me confidence to start the body work on my projects

Cheers mate, You're right too, there's some great people here who are always willing to help, I'd like to thank them too!

If you've got any questions regarding work to your own car, don't hesitate to ask!

Andy.

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Digging around in my toolbox today and found the files I used for filing the lead to shape……




Search for "body file holder" and "dreadnought file". That should point you in the right direction.

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Old school. Look like the ones we used to use in woodwork at school.  :cool:

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Before you go sanding it with a "New School" modern sander it might be worth reading this!;)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_poisoning

These course files keep the lead particles large enough to drop them from the atmosphere onto the floor. I would still wear a mask though!

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I've got a couple of dreadnaught files at work I can get hold of. Never knew about the car body file though so thanks for that Yomp. I get tested for lead occasionally at work as we repair Railway Bridges that are over 100 years old, the majority of the paint on the bridges is lead based, nasty stuff!!

I'm just about done with the n/s arch now, I've been getting a couple of hours each night this week, don't want to rush it!

Regards, Andy.

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Hi all, small update.

I've been working on the N/S rear outer arch for the past week or so, grabbing a couple of hours where I can. Finally got it to a stage where I can finish it off with some lead. I've never done leading before and will be giving it a go over the Easter weekend :cool:  Taking Yomps advice I did the spot weld and leave to cool before moving on to the next method, worked a treat!!

Here's some pics…….

First few spots


holes for spot welds on the arch lip


bit further on




Almost done, arch has no warpege at all




Lead kit arrived this morning


I also made a start on O/S Chassis leg/Axle mount, it's in a right state lol O_o  at least now I've done one of these before.







Removed chassis leg and offered new one up, it's a good fit apart from the panel has an extra cut out for something, not sure what though?


This view you can see the extra cut out which I will patch over before fitting.


More pics of the rot






After a bit of a clean up


These are a few of the things I will be looking at over the Easter break. I'll have another update on Monday night hopefully.

Cheers all, Andy.






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That arch looks pretty good to me! I'd be proud of that. I doth my cap!

Regards your lead kit, let me know if you have any questions regarding the application of the flux etc.

The important bit now is not to get too much heat in it when applying the lead and undo all the good work so far!

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Cheers Yomp, much appreciated ;)

One thing I was wondering about is that the new arch is galvanised, I've cleaned the area where I will be leading but there might still be traces. I'm hoping that the tinning process might help.

I've been watching video's on youtube to get an Idea of what to do. Like you say though, I'm just going to have to be careful not to put too much heat in.

Here's the vids I've been watching

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7pM6Fndahc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ObHnhpl6UQ

Regards, Andy.

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DA the galv off on the areas that need lead. Don't under estimate how much area will need to be used to blend the join.

Nothing worse when the lead won't stick on a place that you need it as it makes it hard work.

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I'll take it further back than I need to then. I thought it might cause problems. Cheers mate.

Andy.

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That O/S axle mount is well ripeO_o.

You'll be an expert by the time you've sorted that!:thumbs:

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Riper than a ripe thing on a ripe day :lol:

Hats off to you Andy for taking that on. :)

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Yeah the Axle mount is definitely ripe lads :lol:  It needs attacking from all directions. I'll get it sorted though :ninja:

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Great work Andy, looks great!

Where did you get the lead kit from? Been looking at buying one too.

Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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Hairyarse said

Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?

Never used one so can't comment.
Lead is Ok if treated with respect and the right health precautions / methods taken.

Frosts do a lead kit.

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Just had chance to look at the You tube vids Andy.

He forgot to put tallow on the paddle at the beginning but yea thats pretty much how you do it.

I can tell you have a good feel for metal so you'll soon get the hang of it.

If you need to, you can add a little bit of water to your flux over time otherwise it can thicken, leaving the lid off etc.

I would also use a whurly wirewheel on your spot welds lightly just to remove those last bits of engrained carbon deposits around the welds. Although the acid in the flux will also clean you want that to have to do minimum work ideally.

It looks like you only have one flat paddle with your kit. A half round one is needed ideally as well to get around the inside radius of the arch (above where you spot welded)

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Yomp said

Hairyarse said

Maybe a question for Yomp, but I've seen lead-free body solder kits. Didn't know if these were any good?

Never used one so can't comment.
Lead is Ok if treated with respect and the right health precautions / methods taken.

Frosts do a lead kit.



Cheers Yomp

(Sorry for the thread hijack Andy! ) :)

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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Andy nice work on the repair work so far. I got additional flux from a firm in Dalry, Ayrshire, I think they were called 'earlybird'. The lead work is really all down to experience and judging the level of heat, if you can master that you're away.
Keep up the good work.

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Hairyarse said

Great work Andy, looks great!

Where did you get the lead kit from? Been looking at buying one too.
I bought mine off ebay as I forgot about frosts. Frost is cheaper and it has the half round paddle in the kit that mine didn't  :ocf_emoticons__BangHead: :lol:http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-fillers-tools/basic-body-solder-kit.html

No worries about the hi-jack mate, it's all good info!!

Andy.
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