DX to ABF conversion wiring

I can't locate that said two pin plug, I've got the two.on throttle body, one on icv, and then the sensors. .


The coil was fine on the donor car, I have spark too. The fuel pump primes on ignition then nothing.

Im going to check voltage on the ecu relay for live and switched live

ok cool either wasnt fitted or already cut out for you.

if you dont see a fuel signal when cranking i would suggest crank sensor, but you need to figure out where the short is to fuse 17 first.

mk3 coils are ok when they work, but they fail often. plus if you want your rev counter to work you have to open it and run a wire to the -ve terminal inside, with the mk1/2 coil it works off the -ve spade same way as factory mk1/2 engine

thanks again for your time mate,

 I don't currently have a rev counter, and besides, id just be happy with a running car! ha!

how am I finding the fuel signal?

for curiousity I stuck a 15amp in no17 and it wont blow that, I know that doesn't solve the issue though,

well it may be something is drawing more than 10a on the 17 fuse so blowing it, see how you go with the 15a

the fuel signal is from the ecu, if it primes then you know the wiring is ok and the ecu is powering up. but if its not runnign while cranking then the ecu isnt happy to start the car, normally this would be due to duff crank sensor. if you didnt put a new one in when you built the car then now is the time!

http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/037-906-433a.html

ok, that's something else to look at then, again do these just randomly go,?

whats hard to do is pin point anything in particular considering its not like it was running and now not, there could be so many contributing factors

cheers

yeah they can do, check the cable from it if its all cracked then replace

to be fair it looks all in good shape

where should the immob be getting power from? the red is going to d2?

and the diagnostics port red to d7

yeah that is fine, its not the immobiliser if it was kicking in the engine would still fire for a couple of seconds then cut out.

it could still be the crank sensor even if it looks ok, trouble is no way to test them really sometimes even vagcom cant help you with it

right my mate may have a spare I could try, would the crank sensor stop the fuel rail from letting injectors open? when I pulled a spark plug out they were dry

yeah the ecu needs to see a crank signal before it will try to start

right then, will try swapping that if I can find a spare,

im thinking about double checking the wiring for all the splicing or don't you think it would turn over at all?

well all it takes to turn over is the starter live, so it could well be worth looking into your splices just to double check if the crank sensor doesnt help

what are the main ones I should check? easiest way too? from the plug back with colour?

well all the splices you made basically, compare them against the info i put up in this thread earlier

right then, will get on it now  

seems fine so far apart from ecu pin 38 is going to d1 and not d2

hold that thought, theres 3 black and blue's, let me check

yeah never go by wire colour, physically check where it is going