1.5 Carb issues :-(

Hi

As u know I'm a total novice mechanically.

I have just got a 1.5 GX with a Weber and it won't run long, misfires and stalls.

It has a rusty fuel filler which I will change soon and replace most if the system but why is the return fuel line capped ?




Also why is there nothing attached to the Air intake temp control valve ?




Lastly there is an unconnected wire from the red side of a sensor ?




Any help will be greatly appreciated and go easy on me please :-D

Cheers Chris

I've heard a lot of people have trouble with webers when the return line is left open so people cap them off, might be the increase the pressure and flow to the carb from the pump? Mine has a weber with the return line still in place so seems to be a problem that is different per car

The air tube that goes on there should go to the drivers side of the air box (the fwd of the two tails that are by the filter) the other one is part of the carb tubes.

I think anyway

Looking at the capped return again it's because the vapour seperator pot has been removed when the weber fitted.

Usually the fuel lines in the bay run inlet-> filter -> pump -> vapour seperator and then to carb or via return line back to tank.

Thanks a lot as I'm useless 😳

I couldn't find the vapour separator or swirl pot do that makes sense.

I presumed the return line was capped when the conversion was done but whether for the better or not, I can't tell ?

I will look at the air tube tomorrow morning but there is no loose hoses, so who knows ?

Yeah sounds like it's been deleted as part of the conversion. Why, I don't know it seems to offer little benefit with the weber but it's kind of there for a reason I guess.

There is no hoses connected to this at all ??

Ooh, right hand side goes to air intake control, left comes from the vacuum hose on the other side of the intake manifold and then tees into the back of the carb and into the airbox.

Not the best pics but might help

Do they have to be in place ?? Or will they have deliberately been left off when changing to the Weber ??

I don't quite get the description of the left hose, sorry :-(

Remember I am not the best but I'm trying :-)

On your 3rd picture there is an airline that goes into a half black half white plastic bobbin price (no idea what it is, maybe a non return or something) this goes across the inlet manifold and splits into two, one into the back of the carb the other to the airbox. Or it does in mine.

No idea if they need to be in place but I imagine they are there for a reason. Where there any spare tubes with the car?

I just took a pic

It goes into the back if the carb then t's off with 1 going to the black and white bobbin and the other going to the vacuum thingie on the dizzy.

Thanks for your help.

Ah on mine the one you have going to the dizzy goes to my airbox.

And on your picture the hose with a bolt in the end of it? Goes to the dizzy.

I understand it all but do I change it to your set up ??

Thanks again

Right I've ordered vacuum hosing which I think is correct and I will change it over when I get a chance :-)

Hi Chris,
I have never played with a 1.5 carbed model.

From what I have read when the replacement weber is fitted there are only two changes:
(1) Choke becomes manual.
(2) Water pipes that fed the auto choke are joined together.

So you need to get those hoses in the right place.
The flap will be sprung loaded in the open position (drawing cold air), when the engine starts it generates a vacuum that will suck on the one end of that part you showed with no pipes connected (So one end needs to tee'ed into the vacuum circuit. That little device detects temperature, if it is below a certain temperature then it allows the vacuum suck to go all the way to the vacuum flap unit and therefore close it and direct warm air from the manifold. Once a certain temperature is reached the vacuum is removed and the flap returns to its rest and open position.
In this weather you will not notice any difference really, when it gets colder though it can cause carb icing (passing fuel at speed is how refrigeration works).
These pipes may of been removed for two reasons:
(1) The diaphragm in the flap unit is ripped - simple test is to suck on the pipe that is connected to it and see if it moves - if all you do is suck air then it is bust - they would of removed the pipe as the vacuum circuit would then have an air leak.
(2) The two pipe sensor that is not connected on yours is not working. You can test it by connecting one end back up the flap unit and another pipe to the other connector - then suck on that pipe, the flap should still operate (as long as it worked in (1). Then use a hair dryer to warm it up, eventually it should restrict the vacuum flow. This device might be leaking as well, another reason why they might of disconnected it.

The hose is 5.5mm Outside diameter and 3mm inside according to ETKA.

Maybe these ETKA screen shots can help:









Keep being methodical and learn as you go mate - always happy to help and guide you.

The start up and die might be because the lower carb mount gasket or intermediate flange is leaking - it might only leak once warm, which causes the mixture to become very lean, hence the stalling.

The fuel return pipe doesn't matter either way. The carb has a fuel cut off valve in its float chamber, once this operates because the float chamber is full the fuel will not flow from the tank even though the pump is running.

That's great Ade thanks and I was going to replace that gasket anyway but I don't know what Weber I have ??
It only says Weber on it and there's nothing on the installation receipt ??

How would I find out ??

Sorry for being dumb :-(

i have a spare vapour seporator if it any use mate

means that you can go back to standard really

I think it is supposed to be a Weber 36tlp mate.

Weber still do a repair kit for it.

Looks like it was fitted to some Peugeots and Citroens as standard.

http://www.citrina.lt/failai/tech/_bx/0908-04a.pdf
Page 22