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Mk1 to digifant wiring

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Hi. I'm in the process of putting a digifant engine in to my mk1 caddy. I have Both of the complete wiring looms from mk1 and the mk2 which the engine came out of. I have tried the mk1 dash loom connected to mk2 engine loom and fuse board and the complete mk2 set up including clocks but I still can't get any power to the ignition. I've spent hours every night looking through old posts on the internet but I can't seem to find an answer. One thing that I do seem to be missing is 2 black wires from the starter but they are not in my mk2 loom. Can anyone help? 
Thanks in advance 

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There is only one wire on the starter well 2 one a big honking red that runs over from the battery, and a single spad that is to the right of the big stud.


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the thinner black wires on the starter are not required for digifant, this would either be for kjet cold start system and/or for extra cranking power to coil for models with points ignition.

you just need the thick red/black which goes to starter pin 50, or if terminals are unmarked jump both spades with live from the battery whichever gets the car cranking is where the red/black goes. if it wont crank on either spade then check starter & battery, plus battery cabling

for the ignition this is fed by the black wire on the ignition switch pin 15, the red wire should be permanent live. on the ce1 fusebox you have 1 red wire from battery to one of the large fusebox P spades, and red wire to the ignition switch from the other.

Fusebox FAQ | Club GTI

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Great thanks I'll have another investigation. 

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Ive changed the starter for one off my mk1 golf, so I know that's a good one. I'm only getting .20volts at the red and black wire. I seem to have a few brown/white wires floating about not connected to anything. Will they be earth wires? 

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Brown is ground, brown/white isn't usually.

Low voltage at the red/black wire means ignition switch, and or the interlock relay on a Automatic.

The automatic shifter interlock thing is at the rear of the Bentley.


Also depending on if your new loom was out of an air bag car, there is the bypass you have to do if you don't have an airbag.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

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Where are my DIY Links?

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I've only got .20 volts straight off the red and black wire on the starter. Surely the starter must send 12v up that wire to the fuse board then On to ignition? Or have I got that completely wrong? 

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There is a couple of things that you have wrong.

Current flows from Ground to the Power source Basic electrics.

The starter gets ground from the case bolts.
The starter has 12V on the big red wire of the solenoid full time as it is connected to the battery directly.

When you turn the key switch from run to start, a couple of things happen.
1. The load reduction relay is disabled and cuts the power to the head lights defroster, blower motor and hi-draw items.

2. At the same time you have 12V being applied from pin 30 of the ignition switch red wire, through the switch and out on pin 50 red/black to power the starter solenoid, as well as the ignition circuits.

So verify that you have 12V on pin 30, of the ignition switch and pin 50 when you have the key turned to start.

If you have 12V on pin 50, with the key in the start position then you have an open between the ignition switch and the starter.




What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

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Thanks very much I will check all that today. I've ordered a new ignition switch just in case that is the problem 

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I've checked both pin 50 and 30 and still nothing when I turn the switch. It's in a bare shell at the moment so easy to check any other connections that could be at fault. If I run a wire straight from the battery to the red/black wire on the back of the switch I  can get it to turn over but not getting any lights at all on the dash. I have continuity tested the red/black wire to the fuse board and that is fine. Still not getting any power there tho 

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Off the battery I have the negative going going to earth on the gearbox and chassis, on positive I only have the one wire going straight to the starter, should I have something else on there? 

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Well you should have one 12v+ lead going to the fuse panel, one going to the alternator and one going to the starter…. So if you jump the start directly to the battery it spins, then you may have a fusible link (Battery wire) that is toast.  They do go bad.

If you measure from the ground to the "30" run on the fuse panel do you have 12V.

There are differences in the layout of the Digi vs the CIS and then Motorola alternators (plug in) to the Bosch ( post)

Some that I have seen over the years run the main power to the starter solenoid from the battery to the starter and then from the starter to the alternator.

The Digis that I have had all had separate wires from the Battery to the starter and from the battery to the alternator… Where as my 81 Golf Diesel did the cascade from the battery to the starter and the starter to the alternator….

The Bosch Alternator had 2 wires the big honking red that goes to the main post, and the itty-bitty exciter wire (blue) that goes back to the alternator warning lamp circuit in the dash.

So my questions is do you have 12V + going in to the fuse panel from the battery?

Here is some good information on the front and rear of the fuse panels.
http://a2resource.com/electrical/systems.html

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

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No, i only have the black/red wire that comes from the starter. I think that could be my problem. Where on the fuse panel should the direct 12v from the battery go? On my diagram it says fuse #23 ? But no idea where that is 

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P connector is where the battery connects to the fuse panel.

See the link
Central Electric 1

Screen Shot 2020-02-24 at 11.31.03 PM.png

P is where all the power to various things go and what not, as the ignition switch is connected to it as well as other things…So you should have a red power wire from the battery to P…..  

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

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have you put the headlight loom in yet? if not, thats why. the main fusebox live and earth wires are in there.

you should have a thick red to battery live terminal which plugs to one of the 2 large fusebox P spades, then you have a thick red from ignition switch to the other big P spade.

then theres a thick brown to the battery which is your main earth, it runs to a 4 way white spade plug behind fusebox. theres a spade wire out the back of the block which goes to the claw above the fusebox. then in the front of the white block you should have 1 spade wire from dash loom, one from white engine loom D plug and one from the fuel pump.

as a rule of thumb if you have a brown earth wire inside a brown or black spade housing, this goes to the white 4 way earth spade  block. if its in a clear housing or bare then it goes to the claw above the fusebox
earthblock.jpg

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Great thanks very much guys. I managed to work most of it out yesterday got it turning over on the ignition, then struggled for a spark. Sorted that. Then managed to break the plastic fuel rail putting the pipe on. So jobs come to a stop for now until new one arrives. The last thing I'm struggling with is which plug feeds the fuel pump? 

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fuel pump is fed from black plug  E on rear wiring loom, pin 14.

this pin will be empty if rear loom wasnt from a GTI. few options, change rear loom, add pin to e/14, or use spade N with inline fuse.

more details in my fusebox FAQ link above :)

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I did think about swapping rear loom then it's all on mk2 so it could be easier to find any faults in the future. If I put power on to N do I need the other wire to go to the red/yellow for the switched earth thing? 

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if you use e/14 or N you need to use the factory fuel relay socket slot 2 yes.

either use a 67/80/167 relay and wire the digifant red/yellow to d/13, or you could use a kjet fuel relay which is triggere from the rev counter feed. Id recommend you use the digifant trigger though

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The CIS vs Digifant fuel pump relay CIS is more pricey.

The digifant has a rev limiter on it as well, but to be honest in all the years that I have had digifant with 2 dailey drivers I have never had to replace a fuel pump relay.

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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