G60 engine vs 1.8T

I currently have a G60 in my golf , pulls like a train when it wants to. but I am constantly having running issues ,last time out fuel pump relay went on the motorway, I  managed to limp onto slip road and wait for a tow. All the issues I'm having are electrical ,I could probably do with a new loom to be honest but I'm fed up and I have spent a fortune on the car 10k plus i reckon. sssshhhh. Dont let the missus hear me. Now to my question, I recently got a 1.8t  AWC engine code is there much involved getting this to run? I'm just concerned about the wiring ,I have the ecu and the engine harness so what will it cost to get this adapted for my Golf ? I have all the other mechanical bits from the G60. And finally if I go ahead and fit the 1.8T will I be dissapointed with this engine after driving the G60 ? Many thanks Ger
 

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196

but note if the wiring issues you're having are fusebox or interior loom related changing the engine over wont fix those!

Thanks R.J ,all the wiring issues are from the G60 harness, must be from the heat of the engine.My original 1.1 loom is in far better shape and looks to be fresher looking than the younger g60 loom .I've looked over that thread already ,wiring is not really my thing .It scares me .Is there a post the loom ,ecu off send it back ready to plug into my golf option?To whom and how much? Theres  a lot of conflicting answers . The G60 loom was sent to Gwerkes and it came back with just  a couple of wires to hook up to 3 relays and a diagram .Is 1.8T the same more or less? Thanks R.J

Has anybody gone 1.8T to g60 or visa versa.Or driven both of these .Which was better?

there are quite a few places who can make the loom for you, james thexton & william skelton on facebook, vagtronics on ebay, I can do them too but my waiting list is pretty long.

with all the guys who make the looms check exactly what kind of service you get, some just mod the basic 20v loom and leave you with some wire to hook up, and you sort your own dash sensor & wiper wiring etc. some will do a fully integrated plug & play loom.

some can code the ecu and some cant, some will require you supply your own rev counter converter and some will include it

wow, thanks R.J ,this sounds somewhat complicated and expensive . I presumed it was almost a diy job .ideally I was looking for the loom to be sorted so I could just plug it in positive and negative and maybe into ignition on and its good to go .i dont have a rev counter in the G wagen anyway .I'd like some feedback in relation to which is the better engine. Sound wise the g60 I'd say ,reliability probably the turbo engine .Character the G60 again I'd say.Thanks again R.J

if you get a proper wiring loom made up it is just as easy if not more so than the gwerks loom you bought

James, William and myself offer fully integrated plug and play looms which go in the same way as an original mk1 loom would fit, so all the dash sensor and wiper wiring is all in there like it would be if the loom was made by vw.

just a case of supply a rev counter adaptor if one is not included so this can be wired for you, or wire it yourself later. same goes for vagcom port and if you want them the clutch and brake switches and such

I dont have stock of the revo adaptors and i may or may not have a spare vagcom port depending on what looms ive had in recently, so i will either leave the wires labelled for you or if you supply the bits I need I will splice them in. William does this for a living so he has stock of all the bits to hand, I only do it in my spare time so it doesnt make sense for me to buy massive stocks, plus I dont have the space

Thanks again R.J your a wealth of knowledge as usual.how much does it cost for the looms, say  from the base set up loom to the easiest and simplest plug in jobbies? Also any feedback from people who have driven  cars with the G60 and the 1.8T .Thanks again

I charge 120 for a mk1 20v loom, though I cant defeat the immobiliser at this time. if you want the rev counter to work supply me with a suitable adaptor and I will wire this in, if not I will leave you 2 wires behind the fusebox for this labelled up and will guide you thru how to wire it in

same goes for the diagnostics, if I have one in stock I'll wire it but if not you'll have to supply me with one or i'll leave you the wires to splice to later. Also clutch and brake switches if wanted, generally you can ignore them but if you wanted launch control say then you would need to wire those in.

Thanks R.J ,that's a keen price.Bear with me as wiring isn't my thing .What do I do about the immobiliser? Also I need the key don't I? Can you explain what you mean about the adaptor for rev counter?The diagnostic port, I presume I need that and the wiring attached? how much wiring Do I need? just cut the wires as long as possible as in the length of the wires?And finally what do you mean (brake and clutch switches) p.s Launch control on a mk.1 golf?thanks again

you need to get someone to defeat the immobiliser for you, while its away may as well get them to code out stuff you dont want such as carbon canister SAI system, 2nd lambda etc at the same time.

If you wanted the immobiliser to work you need the matched key and the clocks too as thats what the key is coded too. so your average mk1/2/3 owner would defeat the ecu instead

for the rev counter the mk4 signal isnt compatible with mk1/2 clocks so you need an adulator to sort this. several on the market, only 4 wires needed rev input from ecu, output to clocks, then an ignition live and earth.

diagnostics port isnt required to run the car, but obviously makes things a lot easier when fault finding.

yeah if you do send  me a port then get as much length as you can manage, makes my life easier!

if you dont know what launch control is then dont worry about the clutch and brake switches, the wires will be there for you if you want it later

thanks, I defeat immobiliser ,then I dont need the key and clocks ,correct?So I need an aftermarket ECU then ? Is that correct or can I reuse the Ecu after the stuff I dont need is coded out? Thanks, sorry for all the questions but I'm hopeless at electrics.

you keep the standard mk4 ecu, get the immobiliser defeated as well as code out the unused stuff you dont want then you're good to go

the earlier DBC AGU ecu doesnt need any coding work, just immob defeated. the later DBW AUM/AUQ etc will need a bit of coding work to function 100%