Water / rust in inlet - Advice needed

Hi,

Just wondering if this is a bad sign. Pic attached

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Take out the spark plugs and have a look in the bore, could be a little moisture over time if the engine has been stored

Thanks, I'll take a look

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The make engine flush that kills the rust, I usually see it in improperly mixed antifreeze to water ratios, other wise fairly common.

Now is a good time to flush and back flush the heater core as well.

See: my how-to's in the archive section for a how to flush the cooling system.  If you add the cleaner stuff you have to usually run all water through it
Just read the directions on your flush.  I typically run it for about a couple of days, then drain and flush.

Link in signature or here
View topic: My DIY list of things for a 90ish Cabriolet (digifant2) part 1 - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
 

To be honest for a 40yr old car with a cast iron block that you don't know its history and how its been servcied, doesn't look too bad.

As Briano says, flush it thru and fill for decent antifreeze.

Thanks both for your help. Makes me feel a bit better about it. Two end one have rust as per the picture, middle two are clean

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

errr….. looking at the pic is this a 1.1/1.3 engine and thats the inlet from the inlet manifold?

If so not good to see iron rust as everything upstream is alloy/plastic

Yeah 1.1 and that's the inlet from the manifold

I slightly confused now though as I thought in your previous post you didnt thinking was too bad? Sorry if I'm not understanding, it's my first time stripping an engine so it's all a learnt curve for me

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

initially I thought it was the elbow outlet from the front right left side of a cylinder head of a 1.5/1.6 to the rad, which you would expect to see rust deposits.

not sure why rust would be in the inlet manifold of either engine unless waters been in the engine bores via failed head gasket or engine been stored in damp/wet for years?

mk1newbie said

Yeah 1.1 and that's the inlet from the manifold

I slightly confused now though as I thought in your previous post you didnt thinking was too bad? Sorry if I'm not understanding, it's my first time stripping an engine so it's all a learnt curve for me

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Ah okay. Thanks for explaining. I dont know the history of the engine. Looks like I will will be stripping it down more than expected

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Try and look into the port also with a bright torch / borescope so long as the valve stem is not rusty and the bores look ok, clean up the rust and go for it!
Depending on your plans there would be no harm stripping and doing a de-coke on the head and valves, and having the head pressure tested

Thanks for the advice. I initially planned on stripping off all the ancillary components off, cleaning and painting them along with the head and block and giving it service but looks like the plan may have to change

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

jakethepeg007 said

Try and look into the port also with a bright torch / borescope so long as the valve stem is not rusty and the bores look ok, clean up the rust and go for it!
Depending on your plans there would be no harm stripping and doing a de-coke on the head and valves, and having the head pressure tested

Valves have slight rust on them towards the top of the valve

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I'd say your looking at a full strip down then, how does the oil look on the dip stick, any water in it?

I didnt see any water on it but I'll have another look. Wonder if water has made it's way down the carb possibly if the engine has been stood or a worse scenario maybe a cracked head. I have a sort video of the engine ticking over and the cambelt and water pump have been changed along with a new carb gasket prior to me getting the engine so I dont know if to clean up the rust, fit it and see how it goes or just do a full strip down and go from there. My concern is not having driven a 1.1 before I dont really want to spend getting all rebuilt to then drive it and find that its not my cup or tea. At least if I fit it and can get to drive it I've not really lost anything. I dunno. Needs some more thought I think

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I thought you had a 1.5 or 1.6 or 1.8 engine in your car already?

To fit a 1.1 or 1.3 engine in a car that had a bigger engine in you need to cut off and move the drivers side engine mount then weld in back on to the car…   

mark1gls said

I thought you had a 1.5 or 1.6 or 1.8 engine in your car already?

To fit a 1.1 or 1.3 engine in a car that had a bigger engine in you need to cut off and move the drivers side engine mount then weld in back on to the car…   

You are confused got my head battered reading it wow

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

mark1gls said

I thought you had a 1.5 or 1.6 or 1.8 engine in your car already?

To fit a 1.1 or 1.3 engine in a car that had a bigger engine in you need to cut off and move the drivers side engine mount then weld in back on to the car…   

Yeah 1.5. The welding hopfully shouldn't be an issue

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Just checking you know about the different engine mounts positions as well as the other issues with the engine.

The road tax should be cheaper with a 1.1  

If the rust is very light you could try to clean the valve stem with a scotch pad, but if the valve is open at all then it's likely water will have passed into the bore. I don't suppose you have a lot to lose except your time doing the swap, (assuming you have all the other parts that will be needed) in cleaning it up and running it, but you may find this cause valve stem & seal wear leading to it being smokey
I'm not sure I'd want to step down to the small block motor in modern traffic, but of course it’s your car and choice!