Over heating or no?
Posted
#1553674
(In Topic #208355)
Newbie
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Posted
Local Hero
There is also the method that you drill a 1/8 to 1/16 hole in the lip of the t-stat to allow air to escape as you fill it to prevent the bubble.
The other point is which t-stat did you install, most common is 195F or 95C t-stats, and they will show warmer than you are used to if a lower t-stat as in 180F was installed prior. (Some manufacturers stamp the degree on the t-stat.) Also it is a good practice to boil the t-stat on a store to be sure that it opens fully prior to install, I have had ones bad out of the box.
The point of the matter is this, as your car is motivating down the highway the needle of your water gauge should be centered or slightly right of center. As you stop the temp may climb to 3/4 and the fan kick on. Which is NORMAL.
While you are sitting in the drive running the engine after a change of part, your engine isn't getting the airflow over the radiator, and the temperature of the engine will be hotter than in motion, but once the fan kicks on the needle will be driven back to center.
So when this is happening, were the needle is in respect to center, and the temp of the t-stat are what we need to know.
On a side note, it is a good thing to flush and back flush your cooling system every couple of years, I usually do the heater core separately as the flush and black flush go so that the calcification and stuff is kept to a minimum.
Last edit: by Briano1234
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Anyone know the resistance of the sender @ operating temp
Wiring jedi
Www.jvsautoelectrical.co.uk
Www.jvsautoelectrical.co.uk
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.