How much power. 1.6EG engine.

So how much power can I get without removing the engine or heavy engineering work. Think largely bolt on parts.

1980mk1 GTI with EG engine.

I have stainless 4 branch and 2 inch welded single box stainless exhaust.

I have but not yet fitted mk2 throttle body and ground out inlet manifold.

I don’t want to change the engine as I want to keep the classic status and free road tax from dvla.

So what can I do to get to 150brake? Or even higher out of the little 1.6 rev machine.

Cam. - which one to be usable on the road.

Head work?

Pistons ?  

Inlet filter?

Ignition?

What is going to give the best upgrade for the £

Will be great to see what people say and recommend. It will also form a shopping list for the next few years. It running tidy and passes mot with ease. Basically I’m bored and need to do more work to it but want it to look pretty standard with the bonnet up.


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I don't think you'll get more than about 125-130 and that's with everything you mentioned done, except pistons (let's assume they're okay at the moment).

Very unlikely to see 150 from it - that's nearly 100bhp/litre, something that for example a Mk5 GTI achieves with a turbo and 16V.

Great way of looking at it. 120-125 Bhopal would be a huge improvement on standard.

What can be done with ignition?  Just updated leads etc or is there a static coil mod out there ?


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Eg 1.6 was 110BHP standard, piper cams claim 10 BHP increase, gas flowed head mainfold, exhaust, filter and throttle body i would say your at 125-130BHP  and bigger valves (if you can find them) bigger pistons (again if you can find them)
GTi engineering had the RLR1800Plus 140BHP

It only the removal of my fuel tank to discover the excessive level f rot is not sucking up near to £2k.

Change the fuel tank I thought.
Just return rear axle whilst off and change to discs - can’t cost that much right.

Doh…….

Accumulators - expensive
Fuel hose - expensive
Servos - expensive
Callipers - surprisingly cheap.

Loads of hidden rot. [emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]

Oh well. Maybe next year.  

Cams. Piper or Kent

I grew up with Kent cams being the leader but Rickover was lumpy on my mk1 Astra (25 years ago). But was a stage 3 cam and lightened fly wheel.

While ripping my fuel system out I am fitting the mk2 throttle body. That’s it for now though. Will get a high flow air filter in the original air box but then it will be head work for the next job. Cams yes. Gas flow - depends on £££, valves maybe.

Won’t touch the block or pistons etc. Don’t think it’s worth it and the engine would not be able to be put back to stock if I did.

Anyhow ramblings over.


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Just fitting a high lift cam on and expecting loads more power you'll probably be dissappointed. The k jet doesnt like lots of valve overlap and imo you'll lose more bottom end driveability against top end gain.
Being an eg it could be points or electronic ignition. Id go electric ignition if its not already.
The k jet is the limiting factor with these. Its a lot of work to put bigger valves in etc to then keep it on k jet. Id just port it, and balance it.
Try and find an Iltis crank and up the stroke - although you need pistons to suit. Takes it from 1588 to 1715cc

Road car on K jet Id max the duration at 264 degrees using a Newman Cam.

Not done it myself but if you're putting a bigger throttle body on a mk2 16v WUR compliments the bigger throttle body nicely, so I've read.

Well a quick google and they are not just a few quid.  

Be great to see if the change is necessary and what the benefits are.


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No, over £100 for a used item.

I think better throttle response on hard acceleration, used to be audi 80 throttle body and a 16v wur was the mod to do. I don't know if a mk2 8v wur would be better suited assuming the throttle body you have is for an 8v? Or even if its a worthwhile mod with a mk2 throttle body.

Its to do with the mixture. The 16V item has a vacuum connection so its possible to enrichen the mixture on wide open throttle, while having it normal/lean on part throttle - better for fuel economy, or performance.

It would depend if you tuned your car (with 8V WUR) to provide best performance at wide-open throttle, ie highest ultimate power, or some compromise setting that also provides good fuel economy.

Also the 16V WUR can be modified by drilling the back (at a specific place!) to reveal a female hex socket which offers adjustment on the effect of the vacuum.

I’m in the bolt it on and see what happens club stuff the moment [emoji23]

Mine is off an mk2 8v. So 40mm in place of the normal 32 I think.

Let’s see what happens when I eventually get round to it. Still waiting for rear beam parts and fuel pipes to get the backend done, manifold down the priority list currently.


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