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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

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So nice run to caffeine and machine today and then this.

Fuel pump has always been noisy but today was noisier than normal and then the noise slowed down - car would tick over happily but would not drive under load. Missing spitting etc.

So going to replace the external pump - VW heritage about £60.

Want to replace the internal tank pump - not sure what to buy or from where. Guidance please.

Filler neck was done in lockdown so all good there and internally was sound to be fair.

Hall sensor connection a bit iffy so going to refurbish a spare dizzy and fit that.

Any thoughts on the above should I be looking for something else.

It drove onto the tow truck - just, so can move but not much [emoji848]




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I don't think your car will have a lift fuel pump in the tank, it's a later add on to cabriolets to stop the problems of fuel starvation with low fuel and going around corners.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 300,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

That explains a bit as to why I can’t really find them listed. [emoji106]


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Early golfs CIS didn't have a lift pump as they had a 10 gallon tank and were bottom feeders, when they changed the body style to the mk2 and gave it a 13 gallon tank mid 84, they installed a lift pump. The Cabriolets have the pre 84.5 not lift, and the post 84.5 lift pump and external swirl pot.  

Make sure that your tank is devoid of rust and a clogged swirl pot, as the restriction of fuel to the pump makes it whine and go bad faster.

On the 84.5 and later Cabriolets it is usually a bad in-tank pump that or lift pump that causes the main one to whine and complain, then stop working after a 20 minute run, let it cool, and the car re-starts and runs for about 20 minutes rinse repeat and so forth.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

Just spent half an hour under the car. Bracket is loosened so that’s a bonus.

Downside the tank is pretty full and I don’t have enough fuel cans - so a challenge to be overcome there.

Heritage don’t have a pump in stock so need to find one that can be delivered ideally by the weekend.

Is there a part number for the small hose from the tank to the pump inlet?  I want to replace it.

I note also until I take this hose off I can’t pull the pump bracket back enough to get at the electrical end and the outlet.

On the plus side the foam around the pump looks in good condition.


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Classic VW do the pipe:
Mk1 Golf Fuel Tank Hose 90 Degree 171201311D

They also do pumps, but not sure you'd get one for the weekend.

Take pictures of how it all goes back together under the car - otherwise you'll struggle.
I'd also get some penetrating oil on any of the fuel line fittings that you want to undo - I snapped a metal fuel line on mine trying to undo one - that was really annoying!

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

Cheers. Got the rubber line loose that feeds the pump and the bracket undone. Tank still full so will decant it into the wife’s car one can at a time on the weekend.

Then can slide the bracket back and off along with the foam. Pictures of the outlet connections and disassemble.

Managed to order a Bosch unit fro eBay for £60 with delivery so that piece sorted.

Just hope the outlet end comes apart with enough ease.  The pump in there looks all black from what I can see under the foam so guessing it is an aftermarket pattern pump. Hopefully the Bosch will be an improvement.

Will the improved pressure output through the metering head make a difference? Will I need to have it re-tuned or will it simply manage itself ? I assume it will be fine but someone else’s experience would be good


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As far as I know, my pump is original, and that is black.
£60 for a new bosch one sounds good - car to share? I did bench test my pump, it ran, but I have no idea if the flow rate is still up to scratch so it's good to know a decent one won't cost me an arm…

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.




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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

So got the old one off.  Now I stink of petrol.  

It is a pierberg on there

Lots of cr*p
 caught in the filter but not sure how long it’s been fitted so could be many years of build up will check the receipts later.

I did the filler neck in lockdown so I know that’s good. Visually the tank looks good so hoping this is just the time of fitting on accumulation of junk.





Hopefully the new one will have me back up and running if it cr*ps out a bit too fast then I will have to drop the tank and fit a new one. [emoji45]


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Backinblack said

 I will have to drop the tank and fit a new one.


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IF you do that, Spray the axle studs at the rear with a penetrant for a few days after brushing all the debris and rust off of them.  Then about 20 minutes prior to removal.  USE A IMPACT WRENCH (electric or Air), you will less the chances of Torque Shearing the things off the body, as that will happen if you use a Breaker Bar and a Socket…. Seen it happen too many times.

You don't have to drop the rear axle off the car but just lower it a wee bit, be mindful of the rubber brake lines and if you haven't replaced them yet, now would be a good time to do it…as you can get to both sides of the connection easier…(oh and use Brake line wrenches only, then going back wrap the threads with Teflon tape, and bleed all 4 of the brakes.) I usually place a plastic sandwich bag over the lines to catch the drips.




What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

If I do it I shall fit my refurbished rear axle and rear disc conversion so will make sure the back end is 100% [emoji106]


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Apologies for the slight hijack, but is it possible to remove the tank heat shield without dropping the axle (and tank)? I know I'd need to remove one tank strap….

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

Hijack away and I have no idea not looked and hopefully won’t have to [emoji23]


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Oh, did your new pump come with a filter? Not entirely sure there is one in mine!
There is also a filter in the tank (assuming it's an original gti tank) bit of a pig to get out, but mine was really cacked up.

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

Not got the new one yet. Due Tuesday. The filter was a factory fit in the one that was on there for sure.

Apparently the tank is not too hard to drop out but hoping to avoid it.


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Thanks!
You don't have to drop the tank to get to the internal filter, you get to it through the sender guage hole under the rear seats.

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

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I think that black stuff could be the rubber flap at the bottom of the swirl pot. Lift rear seat and look in the tank, if its got a plastic box in there with the filter in its original tank and probably best to get a new one

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you can still get the peirbug pumps, but sure the bosche will fit, did on my 4 cabbys this year and last,  get as much rubbish out of tank as you can.. or change it.

On the drive
T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshi£ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline


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HELP - Missing and breaking down.

Thanks both. Will pull the seat this week and have a look. Interestingly the pierberg has that really small filter. The bosh filter is inside the main pump body and full diameter of pump so much bigger surface area and hopefully allow it to be better protected and longer lasting.

Still waiting for the new tank to pump hose to arrive and then I can get on with sorting it.


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