Advice on how to clean inside cylinder bores 1.8 GTI DX Engine
Posted
#1604467
(In Topic #218573)
Settling In
Cleaning inside cylinders
Hope you can help, I have recently had my cylinder head rebuilt after a blown head gasket. I am in the process of refitting & am trying to clean the engine block surface and piston crowns - using a green scotch brite pad and WD40. I had used previously used a black bottle of Holts head gasket sealer as a temporary fix. Looking inside cylinder two I have lots of this red chemical residue on the inside walls. I have been trying to clean inside with the scotch brite pad, but cannot get it looking clean. Can anyone recommend a good method of cleaning this surface? Thanks
Posted
Moderator
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Franklin-Adjustable-Cylinder-Hone-2-to-7-TA140-Glaze-Breaker-Buster-Honer/110938845501?epid=1190541083&hash=item19d478713d:g:2qgAAMXQHDlRfemI
However:
1, I've never used one so can't comment on how well they work or if you'll just end up making things worse
2, You'd probably need to take the pistons out to do the entirety of the bore
Might be worth having a chat with the guys that did the head.
At this point a full re-build might be required or suggested as if you hone the bores you may need new piston rings. Possibly. Maybe.
Good luck with it
Ian
Posted
Local Hero
Cylinders by nature oval, that is were left and right ends with the piston flex. Surface rust is easily cleaned off with 0000 4ought steel wool coated in oil.
Removing the Pistons and using a Cross-Hatch or beaded flex hone may work, but you have to get it right, that is the size to the piston opening.
Flex-HoneŽ Instructions
Shows the tool in use and how to use it. As it states you should have to use it more than 45-50 seconds.
They cone in various sizes, and prices. Where the Hone that Borded shows you is Great on MC's and Wheel Cylinders and Calipers, for engine work it is better off
Getting it cleaned up by a machinest IMHO. I have used the beaded Ball hone to take Scratches out of my cylinder walls in my Rover 3500S 215V8, that was caused by plug failure, and it worked well but couldn't get rid of all the scratches that were deep. When the second set of plugs failed and Scratched the other side, I had a Talk with the plug maker (Champion), who paid for a entire re-sleeve and rebuild of the engine.
If you decide to only drop the beaded hone take each piston as full down as you can get it. Take a few paper towels wet with oil and cover the piston top with them to catch shavings….. Then use the beaded ball, but use it above and below the area to be cleaned.
If you still have rusty pits, then a re-bore is probably warranted. Then you are talking about the overage of the piston that is needed. and the cost of the pistons is outrageous as to what it was when I was rebuilding my
Rovers and MG's in the early 70's….. You could get a set of 4 pistons .020 over for about 40 dollars…. Now they want 420.00 or more for a set of 4.
Once you have removed the tool, then lightly spray the Cylinder walls and paper towels and wipe it, then carefully remove the Towel from the bottom of the Cylinder, and I usually flushed the walls with clock oil or
Kerosene to be damed sure I got all the grit out, then drop the pan as well. When I was doing it my Oil pumps weren't in the bottom of the pan. So that is a given as well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.