Slippys chrome bits looks like a build thread starting!!!!!

Got a few hours free today so got back at the boot cards, final trimming and fitting of the plywood cards, cut out the access hole for the roof pump and tried out the round chrome hole trim and cover for size, can just get my hand in if I ever have put the roof down manually, cut out the plywood boot floor panels. Stuck the foam on to the ply and trimmed it to size, then cut out some grooves in the foam so the leather would have 6 vertical panels. Marked out the leather and cut to size then glued and fitted one side. I am planning to fix chrome strips into the vertical grooves this should give a sharper and tighter finish to the boot cards.

Stopped off at B&Q and picked up some fine hollow alloy pipe, got home and cut it to size then gave it a good polish came up very well nice and shiny. Then drilled 3 small pilot holes in each pipe, one at each end and 1 in the centre drilled the boot cards to match, then screwed the pipes on from the back of the cards using small self tapping screws. Really looks the part now,leather panels nice and tight, just need to do the other side.

Chrome starter arrived back from Germany today looks like the main body has been changed as I can now see the serial numbers clearly these had been polished down on the first one, the body looks slightly longer, same size as my own. Won't know if it runs the right until I get it fitted this weekend, the seller assures me it is sorted, also got the leather stuck onto the other boot card so I can work on that this week. Nearly forgot picked up some chromed braided fuel pipes on German E-Bay very good price could not resist LOL, will fit these when I replace the fuel filter.

Got the leather cut for the other boot panel, glued on and stapled, then cut the remaining alloy pipes and screwed the first 3 on, ran out of screws so will finish them this weekend.Hope to get the replacement chrome starter fitted as well.
Also got the chrome fuel hoses from Germany today.
Replaced the brushed stainless top rad car with a mirror finished stainless one, have few more for sale they are an exact fit, check out the for sale section.

Chrome starter part 2 after getting the starter back from Germany I got it fitted today, wired back in and fingers  crossed the fingers that it worked, key in the ignition and a second of apprehension before I turned her over, fired up first time, so that's that sorted at last!

Back to the boot card, picked up the last screws and fitted the last 2 alloy rods.
Looking at the cut ends I was not very happy with the finish, I know these will not be seen once the parcel shelf is in place however I still wanted them to look finished.
Thought of a few ways of getting a nice clean finish and then came up  with the idea of  putting something down the inside of the alloy pipes to finish them off, but what?
Had a look around the screw and nail boxes and found some alloy pins with a nice rounded head and a serrated edge, tried one out and perfect fit and finished them of just right, so got ten and glued them in, sad I know. Just need a couple of stainless cap nuts and washers and the cards are finished.  

quick request can we see the car plz

As requested these where taken at the end of September last year at a local VW meet at Mountstewart in Northern Ireland. As you have seen a few more bits have been added over the winter since then.

Some very nice work you are putting in here looks  8)

its the kind of thing that when you have it all finished and sparkling you dread having an oil leak or do like i did with my cabby top the oil up and forgot to put the cap on right   all my nice clean and shiny TSR was full of oil, sick as a parrot :roll:

the only problem i can see you having is knowing when to stop adding and changing stuff this kind of thing is a slippery slope

Yup started off with 2 stainless steel radiator brackets from LMR, then Mr Magpie got hold of me, its been down hill since then. I do know when to stop I saw all the chrome bits 5XPEA has for sale, had one second of madness then wised up.(did put a deposit down on 2 small chrome bits)
She will never be a show car, but every thing can be seen. Its now got to the stage of going as far as I want. Sure painted head and block would be nice, but the cars there to be driven. Still have a full stainless exhaust to fit, stainless filler neck, polished inlet manifold, 16v wur and 16v throttle body and custom air filter intake, but in no real rush will get fitted when I get the time, she needs a new mohair hood but there's no one local so its either  DIY job or the ferry to the mainland to get it sorted. That's what I say now but you never know what I might see next that's shiny LOL
Thanks for the comments
Slippy8v

love what you've done with the bootcards.

I'm in the middle of making my own too…where did you put the foam? between wood and leather?

Have you weatherproofed them in anyway, with a plastic sheet or something?

Your new bootfloor, can you fit that in as one piece? or did you have to make it in two parts to get it in?


Cheers, and keep it up.

Give us a pic of the engine bay as is, with all the new shiny shinyness.

Hi weetony
Glued the foam onto the plywood then glued the leather onto the foam,then stapled the leather onto the back of the plywood.
did not put any weather proofing on as the boot has always been dry so did not feel the need.If there are any problems i can always remove the cards and retro fit with plastic sheet
The ply floor had to go in as 2 pieces but i cut it of center so the largest part covered the wheel well,and therfore will not sag.
Slippy8v

As I had a bit of leather left over, so thought I might as well cover the tail gate card, so same format, only used some thin hard board, cut out the foam and glued it on ,then cut out the leather, just glued it onto the back this time as it was to thin to use staples.
Cut out the panel clip holes and clipped it on. I will look out for some cream panel clips or chrome ones if I can get them and replace the black ones but in the mean time happy with the look.

At some point I will want to upgrade the rear beam bushes and flexible brake hoses, and knowing what a nightmare removing the nuts and bracket can be I thought about starting to spray wd-40 on them every night to help loosen them up, but was not sure this would do the job, I would rather let them soak in wd-40 but the question was how to do this.
So here's what I came up with, I got a kitchen roll tube and the plastic cap from the     wd-40 can a perfect fit to go over the nut and threaded end of the rear beam bracket nuts.
Taped the wd-40 cap onto the end of the kitchen roll tube, got some polystyrene sheet then set the tube and cap (empty) up so they would cover the nut and threaded end.
Filled the cap up with wd-40 then carefully put the cap over the nut and threaded end.
Placed the polystyrene under the tube, so now the nut and threads are sitting covered in wd-40. I will let them sit for a few days then do the other nuts. Now I will be sure there well soaked before I try to remove them.i will replace the nuts with nice stainless steel ones,funny did not think i would get anything shiney to put on here LOL

After searching for chrome or cream panel clips for the boot panel I ended up making my own chrome ones, I got some self adhesive aluminium tape and cut a small disc big enough to cover the panel clip and go under the edge then stuck them on and smoothed them out.
Also just picked up a Tim Stiles Racing 202 profile mild/fast road cam by Kent Cams, duration 268/272 and a Kent vernier  pulley, this should give her a wee bit more BHP and to help her stop also picked up a set of front 256 calipers and carriers. Not in any rush to fit these yet but to good to miss.

Spent some time cleaning the cylinder head this week just taking the light surface corrosion off. I have a nice polished hose pipe housing which will get fitted some time so just gave the old a quick run over.  
The 256 callipers arrived to cleaned them down and painted them, every things nice and free on them, just need the discs and pads.
The TSR cam also arrived looks ok as does the Kent vernier cam.

Thought it was about time I got the alloy airbox fitted, so as I did not get any brackets for it when I bought it I had to make up my own, once put together I riveted it onto a fitted sheet alloy base and bolted it onto the original mounting points then fitted the metering head.
Had to get an alloy ring reducer made to fit the K&N filter onto the big silicon hose, did a trial fit and found the bend was not sharp enough, so fitted it as it was so I could still drive the car, looked pretty mean.
Ordered up a 70mm u bend and then cut this in half this would give me a good sharp bend to drop the filter down to the front of the grill nearly where the original air intake  was, cut the silicon hose to size then joined them with a piece of 70mm alloy tube then used big hose clips to join everything together. Fitted onto the alloy filter intake and made sure every thing was nice and tight.
Ar*e forgot about the alloy heat shield so unscrewed every thing again and fitted the heat shield. This should also act as an air scoop, the filter sits just above the front panel and part of the heat shield just below it. looks nice and tidy now, just need to give her a spin to see what its like, and check out if there are any rattles from it.
I have already had the car out with the filter running over the top of the radiator cowl and did feel an improvement in how the car ran.(check out pic)
I know this will not get me any more BHP but it sure looks good and sounds good as well.
Must remember to keep out of puddles LOL. Also fitted one of the chrome fuel pipes from the filter.

Was bidding on an very hard to get alloy washer bottle on E-Bay but lost at the last minute, was really p.**ed, so went and made my own alloy cover, this will do until I get an alloy bottle.

Had bought this last year from Crazy Quiffs, a new stainless steel filler neck, so I thought it was about time I got it fitted.
Sprayed plenty of wd-40 on the hose clips and screws over the last few days.
First I tried the filler cap to see if it fitted on to the new filler neck.
No is the answer, a word of warning to anyone fitting this filler neck check the cap fits first as I had to get the multi drill out to remove some of the metal in the two slots where the petrol cap fits on to, I also had to grind down some of the metal inside the fitting to get the cap fitting properly. Not the sort of thing you want to do once you have it fitted on the car.  
Jacked the car up on one side so any petrol would run to the other side of the tank, I had run the car to under quarter full so knew this would help stop any petrol running out once the hose was taken off.
First part was to remove the hose clip on the breather pipe, nice and easy it just broke off rusted through!!!!
Next was to remove the 3 screws on the filler cap mounting point, this was easy as I had already loosened them in preparation for the refit.
Then the hose clip on the rubber hose pipe going to the fuel tank, again no problems, just needed to wriggle the hose off the end of the old filler neck. Bucket in place to catch any petrol which might come out, very little about an egg cups worth!
Then took the old filler out, not a pretty sight in day light.

Got the new filler neck and tried the fit, not far off but really would need a few minor tweaks for the perfect fit. Put the hose on at the tank but left it as a loose fit to allow final fitting. Screwed the petrol cap mounting end on using new stainless steel screws, fitted the breather hose back on a fitted a new stainless hose clip, then fitted a new stainless hose clip on the petrol thank hose. Tightened every thing up and could see the mounting bracket at the bend off the filler neck did not match up with the old screw hole, so bent the bracket as near as I could but ended up drilling a new hole and screwing it in place with a stainless self taper. Happy with the final fit gave it a good spray of wax oil, and a quick polish. No more worries about rusty filler necks.
This should be a straight forward job but allow time for tweaking the fit and also getting the filler cap to fit correctly, spent about 3 hour from start to finish allow your self a good half day. The Crazy Quiffs stainless neck is very well made however each car may need tweaks in the fitting. Use of a pipe bender would be useful for the minor tweaks for the perfect fit. Happy its on and another job of the list.
Nearly forgot also fitted a chrome bonnet stay bought from totenkopf from the MK1 owners club.
          

Picked these up to night, cream centre console from Germany will match the cream leather and a set of white face VDO gauges, will look the part once fitted.