mk1 20vt and mk1 PD
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mk1 20vt and mk1 PD
since i got a part time job over at crazyquiffs its given me the insperation to get on and finish the damn thing 8)
here it is when i got it
here is a few random shots of the mk1 over the years
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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the old engine
the new engine
needed a bit of a clean up
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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brand new 100mm driveshafts with new inner and outer cv's
a new fuel pump, hose and stainless steel bracket
next the timing cover needed modding as the mk4 mount hole isnt needed any more
so i cut a plate out to fill the hole
got the mount fitted and cambelt tentioned
got one of crazyquiff stainless fuel pump brackets, as nicely made as they are they aint shiny enough lol
before
1st stage of polishing
i welded the cambelt cover up
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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and a few more shiny bits
oil return for the turbo
head shield for the turbo too
a few silicon hoses for the heater matrix bypass
o2A mount
ditched the shitty duel mass mk4 clutch for a abf flywheel, just need a VR6 clutch join it
fuel rail on
constant velocity joints painted
did a bit more rerouting this time the water cooler for the turbo charger
in this 1st pic u can see the pipe originally come round the cambelt side to the solid front water pipe that goes around the engine
so with a bit of cutting and joining im left with this
still goes on to the solid water line just a bit further on, all hidden on the back of the engine now 8-)
i ran it down low to keep away from the exhaust manifold but ill prob still cover this in heat guard too
gave the driveshafts and starter a coat of 2k clear
then knocked up a EGR valve blank and polished it finished off with stainless button head M6 bolts
then another short pipe blank for the turbo reroute i did yesterday
and spent the rest of the afternoon making the gearbox mount look pretty
before
bent a few bits of sheet steel in the folder and welded them in place
and then smoothed off
and trail fitted
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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got a bit wet :roll:
and back in it home
top hose
oil cooler pipes from a agu 1.8t (more suited for my simplified engine)
new short run aux belt (now only runs the alternator)
a set of polly mk1 axel bushes that i will be using to make my new front and rear engine mount
got the driveshafts completed today
and finished putting the starter back together
re-manufacturing the front snubber mount
there was nothing wrong with vw's original design i just thought i could do better
start off with i made some new mounting tabs for the cross member part of the mount
then tacked in place
then a bit of cutting and welding later i had
then i modded the engine side of it and mounted the tube for the bush
and voila
one new engine mount
had a few more bits turn up
i had various new banjo fitting turn up including a special nut for the fuel pump
i cleaned up the fuel pump sponge, it came up a treat considering its 28 years old and been under a car in the grime for that long
all fitted together
then the new fuel filter, bracket (used a coil bracket) banjo
just need some fuel lines now.
a few more bits from vw
100mm driveshafts washers and a gasket from the turbos oil drain pipe
and last up is a new LUK clutch from a 2.9 VR6 so it should take the extra power nicely
treated and etch primered the new mount ready for a top coat
then i made a plate to mount the boost pressure sender into the intercooler, u can buy a pipe section from forge to mount this in but i want it tucked away out of sight
this is where it mounts in the mk4 i/c
so i dug out a bit of 8mm aluminium
then drilled a 17.5mm hole in it with a bit of a taper to help the o ring slide in better
and drew round the sensor to give me a guideline
then tapped 2 M6 threads in and cut it out to shape
then checked the fitment with the sensor, finished off with some s/s bolts and washers, it ready to be tigged onto the intercooler 8-)
a forge 007p divert valve (a must for any uprated 20vt)
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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You have skill, i m sure your car gonna be show winner :wink:
Keep us posted!!!
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Old Timer
Good work…..keep it coming !
Real golfers don't play with clubs
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Once i get bored of my carbed valver, i'll more than likely go down the 20vt route aswell
92 caddy, Now stripped for full rebuild
83 golf gti R1 carbed 16v(soon to have 1.8T)
07 Leon FR TDI daily
Cambridgeshire regional host
83 golf gti R1 carbed 16v(soon to have 1.8T)
07 Leon FR TDI daily
Cambridgeshire regional host
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Local Hero
Will come & say a hello the next time i am at Quiffs :wink:
Diesel Possessed
A97JCE
Feeby
A97JCE
Feeby
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heres a few pics of the fully rebuilt Ko3s turbo done by my mate at owen developments
i doubt it will stay long as he is in the process of getting the bits together to build me a ko4 in a ko3 housing with a new owen development actuator
i will be getting my ecu back next week too with the immobliser defet and remap
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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i spent about a hour removing the factory cloth loom tape that was covered in glue and ended up with sticky fingers :?
then i started removing all the unnecessary parts of the loom that went to the n112 valve the sai pump and pas switch etc
a few diagrams and notes i had made
the main engine loom
the interior power to engine loom
and the bits removed
now i have my head round it in theory its as easy if not easier than the abf, G60 wiring's i have done before.
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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Local Hero
SOUTHWEST Regional Host. Bristol Meet - 1st Friday of the month - Toby Carvery Bradely Stoke Bristol Bristol Region Facebook Group
1.8T CABBY
TINTOP THREAD (SOLD 2016) SPORTLINE THREAD (SOLD 2015) CLIPPER THREAD (SOLD 2012)
1.8T CABBY
TINTOP THREAD (SOLD 2016) SPORTLINE THREAD (SOLD 2015) CLIPPER THREAD (SOLD 2012)
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Old Timer
Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)
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i have no idea how much i have spent, i dont dare tot it up
time to finish off the full race spec brakes that i started a few years back
i already have wilwood 4 pot front brakes mk4 turbo rear brakes with a tilton bias (fully adjustable pressure to the rear brakes)
it was just the master cylinder left, i had a mk2 16v non servo one fitted direct to the pedal before but as I'm repainting the bay i might as well get rid of that too
so now im going for the fully hidden twin cylinder with balance bar and a remote servo to remove the hard pedal feel
the remote servo that i will tuck under the dash if i can find space
the balance bar
the cylinder
ill be mounting them all on the original steering column
i need to cut up the spare column i have now, it will be the most modded pedal box u can get on a mk1 with hydraulic clutch, twin cylinders and electronic throttle
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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wonted some tips on how you sot such a mint shiny finish ?
is it all in the high gloss lacquer or polish the f**k outof it ??
should be spraying my mk1 g60 project for the 1st time
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it is a base and clear paint job that has also been wet flatted and porter cable polished up to the glass like finish
me: www.facebook.com/mkoneman
work: www.facebook.com/obdworks
club: www.facebook.com/dubcluboxford
instagram: mkoneman
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