mk1 1.9 pd engine conversion and restoration finished.
Posted
Settled In
pd240 project. Updated10/12/2012 daily updates
well after spending 5 hours prepping the door in the picture above i made a few phonecalls to local shot blasters.
there is a place around 7 miles from where the car is located that will shot blast the bare shell
inside
outside
engine bay
underneath.
they will do all the above for £150 estimate. He also told me i could take the bonnet and panels etc and he would not blast them unless he could guarentee they would not get damaged.
now my question is would you get this done and if so would you weld new sill and rear arches on first or would you it done and then work from there.
car definatly needs
n/s sill
n/s rear arch
o/s rear arch possible
and a small hole in the a pillar.
obviously more may be made after the shot blasting
please can anyone advise on what to do and also comment on price etc.
cheers
there is a place around 7 miles from where the car is located that will shot blast the bare shell
inside
outside
engine bay
underneath.
they will do all the above for £150 estimate. He also told me i could take the bonnet and panels etc and he would not blast them unless he could guarentee they would not get damaged.
now my question is would you get this done and if so would you weld new sill and rear arches on first or would you it done and then work from there.
car definatly needs
n/s sill
n/s rear arch
o/s rear arch possible
and a small hole in the a pillar.
obviously more may be made after the shot blasting
please can anyone advise on what to do and also comment on price etc.
cheers
Posted
Old Timer
Hi mate,
Regarding the shot blasting, I think it would be a good idea if you want to do a bare shell resto, just strip of all parts & panels, and let them blast it. When you get it back you will be able to see where the rot is and start from there. Bare in mind as soon as you get it back in bare metal state, de-grease/paint prep cleaner the shell and give it a quick sealer coat of primer inside and out, as oils from your bare hands when touching the bare metal shell will cause it to start to rust, plus the envoirment you keep it in, ie, damp etc.
Price wise not sure, but ring around for a few more quotes to make sure :wink:
Its defo a good way to do it, but you always wonder how much mk1 you will come back with
Let us know what happens!
Regarding the shot blasting, I think it would be a good idea if you want to do a bare shell resto, just strip of all parts & panels, and let them blast it. When you get it back you will be able to see where the rot is and start from there. Bare in mind as soon as you get it back in bare metal state, de-grease/paint prep cleaner the shell and give it a quick sealer coat of primer inside and out, as oils from your bare hands when touching the bare metal shell will cause it to start to rust, plus the envoirment you keep it in, ie, damp etc.
Price wise not sure, but ring around for a few more quotes to make sure :wink:
Its defo a good way to do it, but you always wonder how much mk1 you will come back with
Let us know what happens!
Posted
MOTY 2013
for 5 stud at the back just do a rear disc swap. loads of info on here but basically mk2/3 stub axles, calipers, carriers and scirocco handbrake cables. DONE. then its a case of fit mk3 gti rear discs for 5 stud, or mk2 for 4 stud. easy!
you'll need some kind of brake bias for the back, either mk1 gti load valve on the beam or fit later cab/rocco inline pressure reducers.
can even use mk4 calipers if you want, just need conversion hosesm, these are readily available too and you'll need some kind of rear flexis no matter what calipers you fit
you'll need some kind of brake bias for the back, either mk1 gti load valve on the beam or fit later cab/rocco inline pressure reducers.
can even use mk4 calipers if you want, just need conversion hosesm, these are readily available too and you'll need some kind of rear flexis no matter what calipers you fit
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Old Timer
seanr68 said
Sorry mate, meant to put his username and then forgot. :redfaced:
His name is rubjonny. He's on the ball and should be able to let you know whats possible. There's also a guy on cgti who's had great success chopping and re-welding driveshafts. He's called powernut on there….fabricating genius he is. Rubjonny is on this site as well mate.
Rubjonny is a great mind for electronics and looms. I would not touch anything of powernuts.
what media are they using for the blasting? soft and fine rather than hard and lumpy?
Posted
Settled In
redpetemk1 said
Hi mate,
Regarding the shot blasting, I think it would be a good idea if you want to do a bare shell resto, just strip of all parts & panels, and let them blast it. When you get it back you will be able to see where the rot is and start from there. Bare in mind as soon as you get it back in bare metal state, de-grease/paint prep cleaner the shell and give it a quick sealer coat of primer inside and out, as oils from your bare hands when touching the bare metal shell will cause it to start to rust, plus the envoirment you keep it in, ie, damp etc.
Price wise not sure, but ring around for a few more quotes to make sure :wink:
Its defo a good way to do it, but you always wonder how much mk1 you will come back with
Let us know what happens!
the plan is to do a full resto. i dont want to be having to do bits every year for the mot. i was going to rebuild the engine i have but not untill its been up and running then next winter i may do that.
i have etch primer which i will lash on to protect it. i am unsure whether to underseal black, or paint the underside colour coded.
theres not much mk1 to take haha
Posted
Settled In
rubjonny said
for 5 stud at the back just do a rear disc swap. loads of info on here but basically mk2/3 stub axles, calipers, carriers and scirocco handbrake cables. DONE. then its a case of fit mk3 gti rear discs for 5 stud, or mk2 for 4 stud. easy!
you'll need some kind of brake bias for the back, either mk1 gti load valve on the beam or fit later cab/rocco inline pressure reducers.
can even use mk4 calipers if you want, just need conversion hosesm, these are readily available too and you'll need some kind of rear flexis no matter what calipers you fit
i will have to have a look and see if i can swap the mk4 golf stub axles from a spare axle i have. if that is possible then i would be able to run the 256mm rear vented set up i have i also suppose i would be able to use the rear load valve from the mk4. i have 2 rolls of brand new copper pipe to make the solid lines and then i will order specific flexis when i know the exact set up.
also what is the best servo/master cylinder set up available for the mk1? as the brakes i have on the mk4 are
312mm / 256mm.
i can drop the fronts down to 288mm i have, if my 16inch monty's look ridiculous
Posted
Local Hero
So is this not going to be a 1.1 any more?
Diesel Possessed
A97JCE
Feeby
A97JCE
Feeby
Posted
Old Timer
dany_sims said
redpetemk1 said
Hi mate,
Regarding the shot blasting, I think it would be a good idea if you want to do a bare shell resto, just strip of all parts & panels, and let them blast it. When you get it back you will be able to see where the rot is and start from there. Bare in mind as soon as you get it back in bare metal state, de-grease/paint prep cleaner the shell and give it a quick sealer coat of primer inside and out, as oils from your bare hands when touching the bare metal shell will cause it to start to rust, plus the envoirment you keep it in, ie, damp etc.
Price wise not sure, but ring around for a few more quotes to make sure :wink:
Its defo a good way to do it, but you always wonder how much mk1 you will come back with
Let us know what happens!
the plan is to do a full resto. i dont want to be having to do bits every year for the mot. i was going to rebuild the engine i have but not untill its been up and running then next winter i may do that.
i have etch primer which i will lash on to protect it. i am unsure whether to underseal black, or paint the underside colour coded.
theres not much mk1 to take haha
I know what you mean, if i was going back in time with mine, I would have had it on a roll over jig etc, but time, money and getting drunk were always getting in the way
Bottom of the car wise, for me if it was to be a daily, I would shultz it, so end up black. If it was not being used all year, bit of shows etc, I would use a stonechip/rubberized sealer type underseal, and top coat the colour on top.
So your using the pd lump from your mk4 in this then :wink:
Posted
MOTY 2013
the mk4 stub axles arnt an easy swap but it is doable. if you want a mk4 style setup the later polo/seat uses the same thing but in 4 stud. you migt be able to fab something up using a combo of parts plus spacers/adaptors to make the mk4 carriers fit the polo stubbies. iirc the mk4 carriers are part of the beam so you cant easily mount mk4 subby setup. of course if you're handy with a grinder and a welder…
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=177988
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=177988
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Settled In
rubjonny
that link is great and also is your knowledge. i may have a go with the mk4 axle as its a spare one i savedin case i ever needed it for my mk4 so i have nothing to lose.
thanks again for the great info and help.
redpetemk1
the car will be a daily more than likely as all my cars become dailys.
i think the two tins of schultz i have will do the trick.
i am definatly going to paint the inner arches red though as i think it really sets the car off.
yes the red mk4 will be stripped and the engine from that will be going into the mk1 eventually.
allana13
thats correct its going to be the following
1.9tdi pd engine with 102k miles on the clocks.
hybrid turbo allready fitted.
fmic
egr delete
large bore straight through exhaust to keep it flowing.
i should be expecting around 240bhp when mapped eventually. i am not to sure on the weight the car will be when done as i keep deciding to add more sound deadening everywhere and also heated leather recaros from the mk4 so it will probly be over a tonne in weight bu should still be
good on fuel
fun to drive
pretty quick for a diesel.
that link is great and also is your knowledge. i may have a go with the mk4 axle as its a spare one i savedin case i ever needed it for my mk4 so i have nothing to lose.
thanks again for the great info and help.
redpetemk1
the car will be a daily more than likely as all my cars become dailys.
i think the two tins of schultz i have will do the trick.
i am definatly going to paint the inner arches red though as i think it really sets the car off.
yes the red mk4 will be stripped and the engine from that will be going into the mk1 eventually.
allana13
thats correct its going to be the following
1.9tdi pd engine with 102k miles on the clocks.
hybrid turbo allready fitted.
fmic
egr delete
large bore straight through exhaust to keep it flowing.
i should be expecting around 240bhp when mapped eventually. i am not to sure on the weight the car will be when done as i keep deciding to add more sound deadening everywhere and also heated leather recaros from the mk4 so it will probly be over a tonne in weight bu should still be
good on fuel
fun to drive
pretty quick for a diesel.
Posted
Local Hero
Nice one mate
Look forward to the build
Look forward to the build
Diesel Possessed
A97JCE
Feeby
A97JCE
Feeby
Posted
Settled In
well a little update.
got some sanding done on the tailgate today its 90% straight dont think ill ever get it 100% as its never possible.
also some pics of the paint.
got some sanding done on the tailgate today its 90% straight dont think ill ever get it 100% as its never possible.
also some pics of the paint.
Posted
Settled In
Well another couple of hundred pounds spent that i didnt plan on spending.
Full polybush kit ordered. along with two new wings and a new rear panel.
big rear axle update tomorrow.
Full polybush kit ordered. along with two new wings and a new rear panel.
big rear axle update tomorrow.
Posted
Settling In
color code LA3A? Mars red?
Posted
Settled In
no pal. i dont think anyone would be able to guess what it is.
Posted
Newbie
dany_sims said
no pal. i dont think anyone would be able to guess what it is.
looks like Ford radiant red
Posted
Settled In
yes it is ford radiant red.
i have got quite a few pictures to upload. so watch this space
i have got quite a few pictures to upload. so watch this space
Posted
Settling In
Hows the build going Dan?
Posted
Settled In
Project started again this week
On Tuesday managed to roll the car over to make the under side more accessible. Removed tank, fuel and brake lines.
Found some bad repair work previously done
Made a start on the rear arch to find that the inner arch and turret are in a pretty bad state.
What would people advise for repairing this?… Would you move the filler neck and round off the inner arch to look like the nearside?… Or would you try to get hold of a full replacement tub?
Little repair to rear offside chassis
Also removed offside sill even though it wasn't that bad, just wanted to make sure the inner sill was in good shape.
All of the wax oil has done its job, below is a picture of the inner sill with some extra paint on to protect further.
Then on went the outer sill.
This afternoon I managed to get the bootlid in primer
Any comments very welcome… the build should get underway this winter!!
Found some bad repair work previously done
Made a start on the rear arch to find that the inner arch and turret are in a pretty bad state.
What would people advise for repairing this?… Would you move the filler neck and round off the inner arch to look like the nearside?… Or would you try to get hold of a full replacement tub?
Little repair to rear offside chassis
Also removed offside sill even though it wasn't that bad, just wanted to make sure the inner sill was in good shape.
All of the wax oil has done its job, below is a picture of the inner sill with some extra paint on to protect further.
Then on went the outer sill.
This afternoon I managed to get the bootlid in primer
Any comments very welcome… the build should get underway this winter!!
Posted
Settled In
well got a little more done couple of pics to show you.
also got quite a few new parts delivered but i took them to the farm and forgot to take pics.
also got quite a few new parts delivered but i took them to the farm and forgot to take pics.
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