Kamei Retro Racer mk1 build

ahh i love the flag addition! very nice touch!! top work on this mate, really really great work!

Love this build Just wondering where did you get the berg cup kit from? I cant find anyone who has them in the uk :/
Dave

^ ^ see the 3rd/4th post down on the last page.

cheers

LOVE it! 8)

ha i love the flag, and at least if your racing round the track and you need to know what corner is coming next you can just look up.lol.

veedubjay said

ha i love the flag, and at least if your racing round the track and you need to know what corner is coming next you can just look up.lol.

         

UPDATES from last 2 days:

Had my first go of getting it started today.

Couldn't get any life from her apart from the immobilizer activating.

After many turns of the key there wasn't much happening but then the fuel pump started to come into life.

The battery is in the boot and the - terminal used to be wired into the boot floor but i was just clamping it with a jump lead to part of the cage feet so i tried without the jump lead & instead cleaned the battery - end up and sanded a bit of the cross bar on the cage as it wasn't painted and attached them together with a good g-clamp for now before i go drilling anywhere and this time the lights on the dash were much brighter.

Turned the key this time and there was a little bit more noise from the bay so i tried the usual bash of the starter motor just in case and after a few turns of the key the engine started to turn more and more though i could hear a metal knocking noise so switched it off.

Also noticed two water leaks & one fuel leak from loose connectors and pinched them up tighter.

I got the wife to turn the key this time for me to check the engine & luckily it was the blades on the alternator just catching around by the bar/bolt adjuster.

The new battery started to lose it's life by now so i will try again tomorrow with some jump leads as i don't know how long the battery could have been on a shelf & i was advised to try turning it over with the plugs removed for a while so i will also try that.

I had already diconnected the lead from the coil to the cap to build up oil pressure but i need to check the guages again as i didn't get much life out of them.


TBC…

I just remembered i only get a quick go tomorrow as a friend is popping in to hopefully start to remove the rear brake lines (one is cracked), we were going to make up new ones but for about the same price there is a local place that will bend all the new pipe while you wait if you bring the old ones along.

Anyway couldn't try today as the one area where i had the fuel leak the bolt has sheared off, i got the rest out though will have to post a pic up when i get a chance to explain what happened to it.

It is the bolt i marked "L" on on the left side of the WUR, they are both longer to accommodate the lines going to and from the 5th injector for the k-star so not sure where TSR got them from or if they originally came with the kit:



Meanwhile in the Kamei Cave we managed to replace the whole brake pipe from the bay to the rear passenger drum:



My mate had major problems getting the union off that connects it up to the braided line on the drum but after an hour of beating the life out of it then beating it again to separate the two half's so as to save the union half that came with the braided kit we were back in business.

Couldn't bleed the system as the minute the nipple on the drum was touched it broke off so it might be a good time to get a new pair of drum assemblies as these are looking pretty tired now.

TBC…

Looking good, keep up the good work and keep the updates flowing!

Cheers

This was the culprit:



super glued together:






Total length (not including head) at the moment including stretch is 27.5mm

I guess the hole is about 1mm wider now so the bolt might have been about 26mm originaly

The bolt looks to be 8mm wide

9.5mm of thread on the end that is 1mm wide between each edge

pretty sure the small WUR bolt is M10x1:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Banjo-Bolt-Double-M10x1-0-28mm-Short-/160605722452

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Double-Banjo-Bolt-M10x1-00-Stainless-copper-washers-/180690406371

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10MM-DOUBLE-BANJO-6-7MM-HOSE-M10x1-BOLT-FUEL-OIL-/310238890387

?

actually thinking about it could be an M8? if so I cant see any

Got one now cheers mate "jamesa" on cgti sent one free :-)

Next i need to tap all the injectors in though not sure the best technique without damaging anything.


If they don't stay in i might have to buy a new set of green seals (about £10 for set).

give em a coat of GP grease and they should pop right in with hand pressure no problem at all

Will try that cheers otherwise £10 i think for a set from vw.


UPDATES:
Still no joy getting starter motor/engine to turn.

We have good earth from battery in boot.

Full voltage is getting to the starter and i have removed the starter and taken it to two local auto electrical places where they have connected it up and it has kicked into life. They said it is an old starter motor and not at 100% of itself but pretty good.

Cleaned up all the connections on the starter and on the ends of all the wires attached to it.

Found an earth unplugged under dashboard with a separate relay with a 20amp fuse so re-earthed that.

Fuel pump kicks in every time now on the turn of the key, i get a long buzz as i hold the key and Maybe a slight click in the bay but hard to trace. at the moment on my own.

Any ideas on what to check next?

I have checked the long row of fuses on the box and re plugged relays in case they were loose.

Distributor is disconnected from the coil and the spark plugs have been removed to free engine up.

Is there a way of by-passing the ignition live on the starter motor? i assume that is what the single connector is on it so i can see if there is maybe a fault coming from the ignition?

make sure the earth is good as well, the starter earths itself through the gearbox then the box mount, then the battery earth. the mk1 box earth is a bit of a poor place becasue the earth path has to travel so far plus thru different metals. the later mk2 qand mk3 use the rear bolt that holds gearbox to engine as the earth point, the botl has a stud on the head.

if in doubt, use jump cables from one of starter mounting points to battery/chassis

edit: oh and if you havent tried it, jump the spade on the starter with 12v feed direct from  battery to rule out ign switch/wire problem

I have earthed my battery through the roll cage.

I have a cable coming from the top of the gearbox that attaches to the top where the battery used to be in the engine bay & has the horn also attached there (works) along with some other wires.

a mechanic neighbour was happy with using a bulb tester around the bay on the block/gearbox & starter and said there was a good earth.

with jumping the spade could i jump from the live on the starter to the spade as the battery is in the boot?

yep that would work!

the cage/chassi might be earthed great, but it could be the engine itself isnt earthed too well, as i say starter earth goes thru the box, then bracket, then cable. also if anythign has been painted between the mounting points could be a problem.

does it even click?

i remember scrapping all the outer edge of the box before it was attached to the block so that bit should be good.

not 100% sure of checking the top of the gearbox where the wire was attached but i am sure the tester lit up when touching it.

silly question but will i still need to turn the key or have it to the on position when i jump the start motor?