Steering rack removal.

My mot mentioned the outer cv boots were "badly degraded" and my tie rod end boots were worn too but when having a look i noticed that the main vertical boot for the steering hard gone rock hard and was breaking away badly as some genius decided to remove the heatshield right below it.
If im removing the tie rod end boots to replace, is it easy enough to remove the whole rack, change the bigger steering boot and do the a bit of an overhaul too.

I can only imagine is doing my steering no good with heat right on it and probs water in it and no grease too.

Well, good question, as it is about the only way to replace the boot.

Hints.

No you don't have to remove the rack, but you do have to loosen it from the mounts, once out of the mounts there should be enough clearance to get a new boot on.

If you have to remove the rack, if it is power steering you have to remove the lines, and they are a buster to loosen.

Also if you remove the inner and outer tie-rods you have more clearance, then there is the issue of the down pipe that usually has to be taken off and out of the way.

It isn't a fun job, as you are upside down and wiggling it out of the way.  All the accumulated garbage that has spewed sprayed and collected falls on your face and eyes, and if you don't wear safety glasses your will get it in your eyes and ears.  Also Power-washing the rack area helps to eliminate that but you still have it happen.

No its not power steering. After the mounts are loose (the u shaped clamps), do i need to loosen a nut or bolt which attaches the steering column to the rack so i can pass the new boot onto it?

Yes I didn't know which way you were going to go, so I left that out.

There is a 10mm bolt IIRC that attaches the Steering u-joint to the rack that has to be loosened so you can get a space to install the new boot.  

Make sure that before you start Center your wheels. Then remove the outer outer tie rods off the spindle Both sides, then re-center the wheel with the tie rods in but not bolted.  This helps to keep the alignment.

Then when you are sure all is right pop them back out and I usually measure, but as you are going to change things up a bit, you will need an alignment.

But If you are swapping the rack out, then take the inner tie-rods off as it decreases the level of difficulty.  Shoot I would even get a set of new tie-rods inner, and get the 2 piece ones from a Cabriolet…Easier on the Alignment guy, and you only have to replace the outers from here on out usually.

I understand centering the wheels but if i just loosen the bolt that is for the steering u-joint and match mark it before i do, remove and replace the boot, why do i need to mess with the outer tie rods and remove etc?

You need to remove at least 1 track rod as you can't get the rack out of the holes at the sides… I've tried it…

You need to drop one end and slide it out underneath the wishbone.  

Ahhh ok i see thanks guys. So drop a track rod from off the back of the wheel or where it attaches to the steering rack?

Sorry if it sounds stupid. Probs the only part of my car i havent had to mess or tweek with

I think we have our wire crossed… track rod is from the steering rack to the track rod end then on the hub which steers the wheels. The metal connection from the steering wheel colum to the steering rack is called a universal joint or UJ for short…

If you wish to remove the entire steering rack from the car to clean etc the you have to remove a track rod to get the clearance to get the rack out.

If you want to leave the steering rack on the car and change the UJ rubber boot you will need to undo the UJ front the steering rack end and it might be possible to leave it attached inside the car at the end of the steering colum.

I ran for 6 years without the boot as it's not a MOT fail but in the end the steering rack gave up so that's when I changed my rubber boot when I fitted a new rack, new track rods and track rod ends.  

Yep i was thinking of the track rod end. All is clear now. Thankyou for clearing that up. Im not planning on taking it out but for what its worth, im tempted to just to clean it all up and get it out but its good to know i can just undo the UJ to swap the boot. I have some binding in my steering after the engine is hot and i think this is the culprit. New heatshield and boot. And a good clean up too.

Thanks alot guys. Much appreciated

Common for the heat shield to be removed as it's not always with a new down pipe and the old one corrodes and falls off.

I wrapped my UJ boot with a plumbers mat as I've a 4,2,1 manifold and it's very tight to the boot.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Resistant-Soldering-Brazing-Plumbers-Mat-300mm-x-250mm-Woven-Glass-Fabric/231607785661?epid=1988749576&hash=item35ece658bd:g:hHUAAOSwyQtVkQWm

You can just about see it in my build thread, towards the bottom of page 1 .

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=projects%2Fyour-mk1-golfs_2%2Fmy-daily-drive-1988-gti

 

Need a new boot for sure. Had a right good rummage before and its got itself a window now haha. Was like black cornflakes. I was going to get some thin ali and make a heatshiend as its standard downpipe but a new boot and wrap will be easier and cheaper. Good shout.
Thanks for the link

You can buy a black soldering matt in B&Q for £4
I fitted one a few weeks ago when I fitted my 4-1.
Just use metal cable ties to hold it on or locking wire