Outer Cv Hub Nut

Just replaced the outer CV boot after a few problems and I am now trying to re-install the drive shaft/CV into the front hub.

Problem is that I cannot get the big 30mm nut started on the CV thread . I have cleaned the thread , tried both the new nut that came with the boot kit and the original nut , all with the same result. Just no way the nut will start on the thread.

When I was dismantling this nut it was extremely tight until it was fully released, not just initially to release the torque. Wondering if it is possible that it had previously been cross threaded and if so what can I do about it?

Thanks

Brian

As an update I have tried heating up the nut on the cooker to see if it will expand without any luck

Doesn't sound great, could you try the nut on the other shaft and the other nut on the suspect shaft to try and identify the problem?  

Is there any signs of cross threading on the shaft and are you putting the nut on the right way round as it only fits one way? You should always fit a new nut as the nut is slightly crushed at one end to stop it coming lose.
Have you got a picture of the end of the shaft and the nut?
Replaced mine many times and never had a problem starting the nut off as you should be able to turn it a few times by hand until the crushed end starts on the thread.

Guys

Thanks for the replies
EW:


Got 2 brand new nuts plus the original one and they all have the same problem

Mark1GLS:

As noted above I have 2 new nuts. Interesting what you say about the 'Crush' . I am putting the nut on with the 'nut end' of the nut c;onset to the hub { if that makes sense}. This seems to tie in with the pictures on the Rebuilding the Front Suspension guide on this website. No signs of cross threading.

At the moment I am toying with trying a tap and die tool or biting the bullet and getting a new CV. The latter would be a shame as there is nothing wrong with it, just the boot

Just to check one more thing you pushed the driveshaft /cv joint through the hub then fit the big washer then the nut and there plenty of thread showing?
I know the end of the thread can get rusty as it's exposed once the nut is done up so have you cleaned it off with a wire brush.
It is normal for the nut to be hard to undo until it's nearly off.
Try posting up a picture if you can.

Its getting dark early up North and I am working on a driveway. I will try to get some pictures in the morning.

No signs of rust as the splines have had a good covering of grease. Have cleaned up the threads as best as  I can and no obvious signs of thread damage.

CV is pushed well through the hub with lots of thread showing even after the washer. I am replacing the ball joint at the same time so the hub is currently floating about . If I put pressure on the CV from the outside it pushes back through the hub so I am working with one hand holding the driveshaft /CV from behind with the other trying to start the nut from the outside.

As is my luck the ball joint is an original factory fitting so I am currently drilling / grinding the rivets off. After this I will bolt in the new ball joint and reconnect the hub. This should provide a bit more stability .

Hopefully I have attached the picyures, fingers crossed

The nuts on the right way and looks right, is it the same size as the old one? if so cant see why it's not fitting….
Anyone else got any ideas?  

hi just been doing mine, I replaced shocks,ball joints and wheeling bearings and when I tried to undo that nut it was really tight and ended up taking the whole hub carrier to work using the kit there. If you think about it,its going to tighten as the wheel turns ,you might have to take the cv joint off or just take the drive shaft off with the both cv joints on and have good look if it is crossed threaded or the thread is damaged,if it is take it to the machine shop or replace the cv joint.

how did you remove the cv joint from the hub?
if its been in place for a long time then they often require a little persuasion, to succesfully remove them a brass punch, or dead blow hammer is best.
If you used a hammer you may have splayed the end of the joint, in which case a die will help but a die of this size will probably not be easy to find, or very cheap. You would be better off looking for a set of thread files.

A note worth mentioning is that this nut should be very tight, it holds the inner bearing sections together and will ensure long life, providing the correct torque has been applied. The nut will not self tighten when on  the road, the first sign of failure will be loose wheel bearings, then it will all have to come apart again  
good luck