Lower arm bushings?

So, I regretfully went to a chain garage to get some new tyres fitted. While doing so, the fitter helpfully (and sometimes unhelpfully) pointed out a few issues underneath the Golf that needed sorting. One bit that confused me, and I didn't press for clarification (as by this point it had been an hour and a half of feedback unrelated to the tyre change) was he said "the lower arm bushings" need replacing, as when braking you can feel them tilt when braking. (Though he said it's not as noticeable as the brakes are 'spongy' - which he somehow worked out from driving it ten feet into the ramp)

Now, what does he mean by lower arm bushings? I initially thought the wishbone mounting bushes to the body, but does he mean one that connects the wishbone to the wheel, or perhaps the steering arm to the wheel?

I'm half a mind to ignore it as I've not noticed issues, but I'm also not keen to look a gift horse in the mouth, as free car advice from a semi professional can't go ignored entirely.


If you don't want to read that wall of text:

What is meant by "lower arm bushings" on a Golf MK1.

The Lower control arm gas two Bushings.

One for the rear mount, and the other the ain screw goes through.

Yes they can deteriorate but a 10 foot drive wouldn't show that, if you jack the car up and place it on a jack stand, then you can use a bottle Jack under the control arm, and compress the arm and strut and watch the bushings as they should twist a bit but not a lot.

To replace you have to remove the Ball Joint pinch bolt off of the Strut, then remove the Arm bolt in the front and the rear two bolts of the rear carrier.  If you don't have a press for the front bushes see my how do I press them in without a press.

How to Press in Control Arm Bushings without a Press. | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

I have only replaced 2 of these in 40 years because the Control arm was bent. On my 81 Golf Diesel they were still OEM originals after 20 years and 330K. Yeah they probably needed changing..Shoot I still had my original CV's on it.  They groaned on a stop turn, but never failed.

The Left on on a Automatic can be a bother as the Transmission Pan is in the way, but Loose the right mount bolt in the Carrier, and then the rear bolt and Jack the tranny up with a block of wood under the pan, as it will Pivot on the front and rear mounts a wee bit to clean the bolt.

The bolt just seens to be a foot long it is a M12X1.5X90mm

Hint
I bought a good kit, but after trying to install it for about an hour and a half, Looking at it, it looked good, after getting out my gauges  I realized that the new control arm was manufactured wrong as I couldn't get the front bolt to start.  The New Control arm only took about 3 minutes to bolt up.

Oh the classic quick fit tyre place trying to get some more work and cash out of your pocket…

Couple of questions for you..
When did you last have an MOT and was there any advisories on the suspension or brakes?

The wishbone has 2 bushes, one at the front and one at the back and they seem to last for years, I've just replaced mine at 300,000 miles.

I would jack up the front of the car and have a look yourself, make sure it's also on axel stands and feel for any play in the wishbones by pulling them forward and backwards or if your worried about it, take the car to a good garage that does MOTs and ask them to have a look.

It's the bottom ball join that connects wishbone to the wheel hub and to check for play you jack up the front and grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and wobble the wheel, if there's play then the ball joint need replacing but again it's part of the MOT.

A short drive in to bay to change tyres will not show up any play in the wishbones and Mk1 Golf brakes all feel spongy compared to modern cars and putting the car on a brake test machine is really the only way a garage should asses your brakes.
 

mark1gls said

Oh the classic quick fit tyre place trying to get some more work and cash out of your pocket…

Couple of questions for you..
When did you last have an MOT and was there any advisories on the suspension or brakes?

The wishbone has 2 bushes, one at the front and one at the back and they seem to last for years, I've just replaced mine at 300,000 miles.

I would jack up the front of the car and have a look yourself, make sure it's also on axel stands and feel for any play in the wishbones by pulling them forward and backwards or if your worried about it, take the car to a good garage that does MOTs and ask them to have a look.

It's the bottom ball join that connects wishbone to the wheel hub and to check for play you jack up the front and grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and wobble the wheel, if there's play then the ball joint need replacing but again it's part of the MOT.

A short drive in to bay to change tyres will not show up any play in the wishbones and Mk1 Golf brakes all feel spongy compared to modern cars and putting the car on a brake test machine is really the only way a garage should asses your brakes.
 

Thanks for the in depth reply! The car hasn't had an MOT since I bought it as it's now exempt, but looking at the history it had a few issues I already addressed. (I've replaced brake servos as it was leaking)

There wasn't any advisory on play in the wishbones, no. It's also only done 120,000 miles so yeah, I'd be surprised if there was play in those joints, but I'll jack it up and check today.

Glad to know it's not me missing loads of major issues and was them touting for work.i didn't expect they would do so, given how hard it is to get parts and to work on them, but looks like I was mistaken!

Briano1234 said

The Lower control arm gas two Bushings.

One for the rear mount, and the other the ain screw goes through.

Yes they can deteriorate but a 10 foot drive wouldn't show that, if you jack the car up and place it on a jack stand, then you can use a bottle Jack under the control arm, and compress the arm and strut and watch the bushings as they should twist a bit but not a lot.

To replace you have to remove the Ball Joint pinch bolt off of the Strut, then remove the Arm bolt in the front and the rear two bolts of the rear carrier.  If you don't have a press for the front bushes see my how do I press them in without a press.

How to Press in Control Arm Bushings without a Press. | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

I have only replaced 2 of these in 40 years because the Control arm was bent. On my 81 Golf Diesel they were still OEM originals after 20 years and 330K. Yeah they probably needed changing..Shoot I still had my original CV's on it.  They groaned on a stop turn, but never failed.

The Left on on a Automatic can be a bother as the Transmission Pan is in the way, but Loose the right mount bolt in the Carrier, and then the rear bolt and Jack the tranny up with a block of wood under the pan, as it will Pivot on the front and rear mounts a wee bit to clean the bolt.

The bolt just seens to be a foot long it is a M12X1.5X90mm

Hint
I bought a good kit, but after trying to install it for about an hour and a half, Looking at it, it looked good, after getting out my gauges  I realized that the new control arm was manufactured wrong as I couldn't get the front bolt to start.  The New Control arm only took about 3 minutes to bolt up.

Thanks for this write up, will check it out if I do need to replace them. Just waiting for it to stop raining so I can check!

They all don't do that sort of thing but I've had it a couple of times with my cars in the past. Now a days I don't even trust them to jack up my car especially as a lot of them don't even have the rubber buffer fitted to their trolly jack so it's metal on metal and I don't like jacking my car up on the sills.
I usually take the wheels in the boot and get them to just change the tyre.

I would recommend getting an MOT type check at least every couple of years just to be on the safe side especially if you have any concerns. A lot of proper garages will offer some sort check over for older cars.

mark1gls said

They all don't do that sort of thing but I've had it a couple of times with my cars in the past. Now a days I don't even trust them to jack up my car especially as a lot of them don't even have the rubber buffer fitted the there trolly jack so it's metal on metal and I don't like jacking my car up on the sills.
I usually take the wheels in the boot and get them to just change the tyre.

I would recommend getting an MOT type check at least every couple of years just to be on the safe side especially if you have any concerns. A lot of proper garages will offer some sort check over for older cars.

Yeah will definitely source that out from a more reputable garage, at least as a pre check as I think there's a grey area where if it is a genuine MOT, then it has to be MOT'd again every year.

Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it

It's really just to have another set of eyes look it over everything, test the brakes and check the emissions.  

mark1gls said

They all don't do that sort of thing but I've had it a couple of times with my cars in the past. Now a days I don't even trust them to jack up my car especially as a lot of them don't even have the rubber buffer fitted the there trolly jack so it's metal on metal and I don't like jacking my car up on the sills.

The only half-arsed Mech that I have dubious thoughts about but is fairly good is myself.

LOLOLOL.  Finding a good shop is a PITA new techs don't like older cars and don't understand Carbs or CIS.