Timing marks

How'dy folks , been trying set up timing belt on Gti dx engine . Just looking to see what marks I'm working off . Is it the big diamond notch in flywheel?not worried about ignition timing. Just what marks I'm using with the cam belt. Thanks folks


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https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=big-block-injection_2%2Fsetting-up-timing think this should help

Thanks Kenneth just had a look at that earlier, I worked off the bigger diamond shape mark, also there was o and T mark on the outside of cam belt that lines up with mark on plastic  part of cam cover


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are these the marks I should be working off?



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The mark on the camshaft 0 is stamped on it then a line then T . Further back at say 11 o clock on the pulley there's a dot. The crankshaft has the diamond  , the dot as in picture. So what I'm I working off? As I'm changing the belt . Please don't confuse me even further by telling me about strobes and timing guns I know about ignition timing. I just need to know what marks to go with for timing belt replacement. Thanks


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on the 90ish Cabriolets, the Cam has 2 marks.  On on the plastic back cover that aligns with the Cams front marks that is  0 | T where the "|" is the mark and should fall under the arrow.  At the Same time there is a Dimple on the Back of the Cam gear that will be even to the top of the Valve cover tin, not the Rebar.  So while it is confusing it really is a double check.  Now the Dimple is only seen with the rear top cover removed.

The Distributor rotor (remove Cap, rotor and shield) then replace the rotor has a hash mark stamped in the side frame.  This should be in the middle of the rotor, and you can either spin the intermediate shaft, or loosen the Distributor Pinch Bolt and move the Dizzy.  Some times the Distributor will become bound to the Block (the o-ring gets gooey or stuck) I have had to from time to time on new to me cars use a long Straight blade and a hammer to smack the Base of the dizzy left or right to get it to move, I also soak the Base with PB-Blaster for about 20 minutes prior to smacking…Smack the bases edge only.

On the Clutch fly wheel, there is a Diamond cut, and a (0) mark.  Zero is what you want, the Diamond is the 6 BTC mark, so you want to move it as you are looking at it to the left for the zero. Some Manufacturers of the replacement flywheels and plates failed to place the "0" on their casting, but did cut the notch.

www.cabby-info.com has a section on timing under the maintenance section or ignition section.  Kammy has taken the time to put it in a PDF format it has all the pictures that you need.

Now if you have a Digifant II ride, Cabby-info and a link I will post, has an excellent write up for timing the engine to 6TDC using only an DVOM.  You will take care to Carefully remove the rubber cover over the Hall Sender plug.

It also works for CIS-E 16V engines.  I have used it successfully, and I used a similar method with a test light on early Beetles.

Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

gafo said

  are these the marks I should be working off?

Yes the First Picture is the "0|T" mark the "|" is the actual timing mark and is under the point of the arrow. You are showing the "0|T' at the wrong location and it should be moved under the point of the arrow on the rear top timing belt cover.  If your rear cover is broken then I suggest removing it and use the dimple on the back.

The second shows your Hash or Diamond the Hash or Diamond is the 6tdc mark, and if you look to the right of the hash you see the dimple, or 0 mark, it is that dimple or 0 mark that you use.

Cheers briano, sorted now still won't start , have spark not sure about injector spray its getting fuel but it doesn't even sound like it's gonna start.plugs are wet but to me they should be soaked after all the cranking


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Timing and Verify that your spark wires are going to the proper plugs.

I was cranking this and it blew off one of the hoses behind the inlet manifold a few times it's on the pipework coming from the servo vacuum pipes, .


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I also did a compression test at it was showing 160 , 170 ,160 , 170 that's with the engine cold , well I haven't been able to start car since I bought it or seen engine running


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Thanks again briano, could somebody post a pic of dizzy and arrow no 1 plug in relation to the vacuum thingy on the dizzy ? Thanks


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What part of www.cabby-info.com didn't you hear.  She has Pictures and everything.  Yes it is for Cabby's but applicable to mk1 in general.

Where the Hash mark is on the dist housing is Number 1 plug wire….

1-3-4-2

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/TuneUp.pdf

page 4 of 6

Yes mate seen that but what I can't see is where no one lead is in relation to the vacuum thingy it doesn't show that in the picture. I know all about 1342. But that's not much use if you don't know where 1 starts


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Think should be able to see. If zoom in

What model car you got mate..? I may have a spare haynes…..

Cheers Kenneth, that's what I was looking for process of elimination, just wanted to see if I had leads on right, which I do, Any idea how to pull the injectors off without damaging them


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Luckily for me when I've removed they came out.just by brute force..but there is a special tool that you can purchase or make that uses rocker cover as lever if tight.
My advice is get running and then Google for old krypton tuners locally to set up best.Then enjoy the summer ,then think about winter refurb again.krypton tuners should have injector removal tools and "sonic " cleaner that may work in bringing the engine back to life.

Personally I'm not brilliant with cars I break more plastic and shatter glass/spark plugs by being clumsy and rushing. I tend to stick with bulbs.brakes oil and filters.

I'm much better at sourcing parts and getting together with classic-vw.co.uk, vwheritage and werks34 for majority of parts then b&b components (tierod) on eBay for other items and Carl chortle for roofs. We are very lucky to have guys like rubjonny brian0 who have lots of technical knowledge and share it with the guys and girls the more I play with these older cars the mk1 mk2 the old audi the more you see same issue and same people are helping everyone. It's good to see.   

Cheers Kenneth will have another go at it around the weekend, I get a bit agitated after a while and have to leave well enough alone before I start breaking stuff


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Got this fired up st the weekend, thanks for your help  folks with timing . The exhaust has a really bad blow have to look at that and put timing gun on it as idle was really low, what's the procedure for doing that? Done it loads times on g60 but not on gti


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Get the Car up to Temp, the radiator fan should cycle twice, then adjust the timing by rotating the Dizzy so that the Tranny is at 4-8 BTDC, 6 is the middle.

RPm should be:

760 for manual
975 for Auto.

See www.cabby-info.com or: RTFM "The Bentley."

Alot of your Questions can be answered at both places.

From a lot of your posts it appears to me that you are looking for quick answers, and not trying to gain knowledge by reading.

Or at least GOOGLE search, or use this sites search feature.



Whilst I have a ton of knowledge off the top of my head, I try to find answers at my Bentley, and Google Searching.
I understand trying to find answers is daunting, but it is deeper rewarding to you than to ask for Help prior to searching.

I am truly Sorry if I sound harsh, to a point I am, but I would also suggest that you start a Build Thread, instead of opening new Help threads for every issue. This is why I wrote a Ton of DIY's as they were missing, or were Vague.  I like to see pictures, and words…. or Easier to understand things that aren't spelled out in the Bentley…..

I truly will respond, to your posts, but don't be surprised if I post you a link, or tell you where to look it up.