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86 cabrio not starting. Low fuel pressure?

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Help me plz :(

Thanks with the help from the guys on my last post I hooked up my new inline fuel pump. Went to try and get the car to turn over and it didn't, so my guess are low fuel pressure or the fuel pump isn't getting power. Any ideas on how to fix these issues? 

If you see me post it's cuz I got confused with the  mk1 gas cap

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On a 86 I need to know which engine, and wich fueling system.  CIS or Carbed.

CIS
I would start by checking fuses with a meter.
I would turn the key from inserted to run, and you should hear a injected fuel pump run for 4 seconds to prime the lines.  

If it doesn't prime the lines you can remove the fuel pump relay and use your horn relay to try it again, the CIS fuel pump relays are known to go out just because.
You can also use a male spad to spad connector and jumper the fuel pump relay.

If it still won't run or prime, then get a DVOM and check for 12V and Ground to it when the key is turned. at the pump.

Now 12V,  should be there to the ground pin, if it isn't then,  you need to check and jumper the FPR, check again.  If it still isn't there then you have a broken 12V wire red/white or a bad ground.  So test from the Red/white to FRAME if you now have 12V then you have a bad ground.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

On a 86 I need to know which engine, and wich fueling system.  CIS or Carbed.

CIS
I would start by checking fuses with a meter.
I would turn the key from inserted to run, and you should hear a injected fuel pump run for 4 seconds to prime the lines.  

If it doesn't prime the lines you can remove the fuel pump relay and use your horn relay to try it again, the CIS fuel pump relays are known to go out just because.
You can also use a male spad to spad connector and jumper the fuel pump relay.

If it still won't run or prime, then get a DVOM and check for 12V and Ground to it when the key is turned. at the pump.

Now 12V,  should be there to the ground pin, if it isn't then,  you need to check and jumper the FPR, check again.  If it still isn't there then you have a broken 12V wire red/white or a bad ground.  So test from the Red/white to FRAME if you now have 12V then you have a bad ground.





THank you for the reply and help on the last post, it's a cis system and can you send me a picture of a diagram or something 

If you see me post it's cuz I got confused with the  mk1 gas cap

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After doing what you said the fuel pumps are making noises but still not turning on

If you see me post it's cuz I got confused with the  mk1 gas cap

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Fuel pumps working as in the priming or running and pushing gas?

Not turning on do you mean starting?

As in it cranks, but won't catch?

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

Fuel pumps working as in the priming or running and pushing gas?

Not turning on do you mean starting?

As in it cranks, but won't catch?



A buddy and I figured it out. I had him crank it and I would check the fuel hose and see if any gas was being pushed out, none. We got the car to crank by spraying starting fluid in the air box but it won't idle for more that 4 seconds, so I think the intank fuel pump isn't sending fuel to my stuff. Am I wrong? Or is this true?

If you see me post it's cuz I got confused with the  mk1 gas cap

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Yes there are 2 fuel pumps on a 86 Cabriolet running CIS.  One external and one internal.  But there are other things in the mix that can cause issues to fuel delivery as well.

The accumulator the external swirlpot/sump/filter and such.  I don't know a lot about CIS, Digi is more simplified…

What I do know is that
You have to have 3/4 to a 1/2 tank of petrol to inspect the intank pump.

Disconnect the battery.

If you are driving and you hear a whine from the (your) drivers side rear wheel arch, then the intank pump has usually failed and the main pump is whinning because it has to over work.

A CIS equipped car has a in-tank pump that is pushing 45 psi and 60gph.  The external is @ 75psi-130psi (hence the banjo fittings) , and 60GPH.

So if you aren't getting any fuel out of the main pump, that is you would need to disconnect the filter and route that fuel outlet to a bucket via a hose,  then you can assume that you have a feed issue.  It could be a plugged internal pump, a bad swirlpot/sump/filter a bad accumulator,  or a bad filter in the car.  There is also a screen on the inlet to the fuel diz, that should of been removed years ago that can get fouled and stop fuel flow.  So if you are getting fuel out of the filter then look forward to the fuel dizzy, no fuel look back towards the tank.

If you pull the fuel inlet off the ain pump  and no fuel is there, then you are looking at the accumulator/swirlpot
or intank pump or connector hose usually.

DO TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS NO OPEN SOURCED FLAMES, WELL VENTILATED AREA.

WHEN I AM REMOVING THE INTANK PUMP THERE IS A HOW DO I DO THAT IN THE ARCHIVE SECTIONS  UNDER THE NAME BRIANO1234 I DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

If the pumps are whinning and not humming, then you are not getting fuel to them…..

The fuel is pulled out of the tank, via the intank pump up to the swirlpot/filter/sump that is attached on the side of the tank Drivers side.
from there it is pulled through the accumulator, via the main pump then up to the filter then to the fuel distributor…



19 is the swirlpot/sump/filter


 

Last edit: by Briano1234


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

Post

Back to the top

Briano1234 said

Yes there are 2 fuel pumps on a 86 Cabriolet running CIS.  One external and one internal.  But there are other things in the mix that can cause issues to fuel delivery as well.

The accumulator the external swirlpot/sump/filter and such.  I don't know a lot about CIS, Digi is more simplified…

What I do know is that
You have to have 3/4 to a 1/2 tank of petrol to inspect the intank pump.

Disconnect the battery.

If you are driving and you hear a whine from the (your) drivers side rear wheel arch, then the intank pump has usually failed and the main pump is whinning because it has to over work.

A CIS equipped car has a in-tank pump that is pushing 45 psi and 60gph.  The external is @ 75psi-130psi (hence the banjo fittings) , and 60GPH.

So if you aren't getting any fuel out of the main pump, that is you would need to disconnect the filter and route that fuel outlet to a bucket via a hose,  then you can assume that you have a feed issue.  It could be a plugged internal pump, a bad swirlpot/sump/filter a bad accumulator,  or a bad filter in the car.  There is also a screen on the inlet to the fuel diz, that should of been removed years ago that can get fouled and stop fuel flow.  So if you are getting fuel out of the filter then look forward to the fuel dizzy, no fuel look back towards the tank.

If you pull the fuel inlet off the ain pump  and no fuel is there, then you are looking at the accumulator/swirlpot
or intank pump or connector hose usually.

DO TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS NO OPEN SOURCED FLAMES, WELL VENTILATED AREA.

WHEN I AM REMOVING THE INTANK PUMP THERE IS A HOW DO I DO THAT IN THE ARCHIVE SECTIONS  UNDER THE NAME BRIANO1234 I DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

If the pumps are whinning and not humming, then you are not getting fuel to them…..

The fuel is pulled out of the tank, via the intank pump up to the swirlpot/filter/sump that is attached on the side of the tank Drivers side.
from there it is pulled through the accumulator, via the main pump then up to the filter then to the fuel distributor…



19 is the swirlpot/sump/filter


 


Aye thanks for the bucket load of information!! I really appreciate it, so should I start with a new fuel pump, the intank one is old and nasty looking so I figure I should go ahead and replace it. But the inline pump is humming pretty loud too cuz no fuel is in it I would assume 

If you see me post it's cuz I got confused with the  mk1 gas cap

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Change the lift pump in the tank 1st as thats the cheaper one, have a good look inside the fuel tank for rust and dirt, if you do find rust put a magnet on a stick and fish around inside the tank to get as much rust bits as possible then clean the magnet and drop the magnet in the fuel tank to collect any more bits of rust while driving, make sure the magnet is not near the lift pump and fuel gauge sender.

Also check the condition of the fuel filler neck, remove filler cap and shine a torch down it and look for any rusty holes.

You want to make sure the fuel system is nice and clean as it's very sensitive to bits of dirt/water etc and it gets expensive to fix/change other parts of the fuel system.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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