Oil pressure

Hi guys, after about 30 mins of driving my oil light comes on and dash buzzer comes on, I've changed both oil pressure switches to no avail,when this happens I give the engine a rev and it stops only to come on again 5 mins later, I've always lived with this has car is only used for little drive outs round town. I'm thinking of trying a thicker oil next time in case oil may be getting a bit thin when really hot,what can cause oil pressure?anyone got any advise please.neil.

When did you change the oil and filter last time in miles?
What oil and filter are you using?

Golf Cabrio said

When did you change the oil and filter last time in miles?
What oil and filter are you using?

I have always (well since I owned my rides, used Castrol GTX 20w50 in mine.  I also stay away from Generic or Store Branded Filters as well as FRAM and Bosch as it seems that Bosch has gone a tad downhill on their filters..

Got hooked on Castrol in my MG/AH days of my youth.

Wix, Mobile1, Mann, Mahl, NapaGold, STP, as well as Genuine VW and PureolatorGold work well and don't give me the intermittent flashy light from hades.

Yes I live in the moderate south, and temps on the pavement can get 130F.  I have found that 10w30 and semi- Synth to get to thin at temp…. 10w40, and 15w-40 are also great to use and helps to eliminate the flashy-flashy lights.   This isn't to say that your Oil Pump isn't spazzing out, if you have a pressure gauge, then test it, as I had a Pressure Relief Valve go wonky on me once and the car wouldn't hold oil pressure.
 

10w 40 semi synthetic oil is right for UK cars, there should be no need to use a thicker oil.
The problem could be your oil pump is on its way out, I had a similar problem, I used to switch the engine off when the buzzer and light came on, leave it for a minute or 2 and it would be fine for a few days then happen again. I fitted a new oil pump and it's been fine ever since.

The buzzer will only work in when the engine is over 2000 rpm.

Simple job to change the oil pump, the hardest thing is the 2 bolts near the gearbox so the are difficult to reach, some people have changed them for Allen key head bolts as you can get Allen keys with a ball end so they work on an angle, be very carefully screwing in bolts gear box end as it's into aluminium which is soft.
Info etc on changing oil pump is in the Haynes manual.

New oil pump is £30 ish and good time to upgrade the oil sump gasket to a rubber gasket.

As a Second to the Two Rear Pan bolts I have used wobble extensions and a short 1/4in 10mm Socket.
When returning those bolts hand start them, and only torque to 87 in/lbs (convert to Nm), any more and you strip them out really easily.

I second the Allens….

Thanks has always guys,I only bought car in march this year and done 300 mile since,was told oil & filter was done then so not sure what oil or filter went in it but could tell both was new,I have thought about trying 20/50 which manual states but appreciate modern  10/40 oils should be fine,I have also  considered faulty pump but whilst  the light and buzzer has been on I've taken oil cap off to check oil circulation and it's been good,I think i need to get a gauge.

What make of oil filter is fitted?

Mecca oil filter

Is Mecca not a bingo hall?   Not heard of Mecca filter…

Best to use a genuine VW oil filter or MANN, Other filters do not always have a none return valve.

Vw filter £4.44
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1filters.php

Mann filter £3.54
http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g1filters.php

Or Euro but use discount code.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/oil-filter

AVS spares also stock synth oil which is what VW would stick in your car.
I use carparts4less or Euro car parts (same company) triple QX oil for many years with no problems, they don't list it under the car reg so you need to search under engine oil.

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf+Cabriolet_1.8_1988/p/accessories-engine-oil/engine-oils/engine-oil/10w40-engine-oil/?521776011&0&cc5_245

Whats the mileage on the car/engine and any proof of new oil pump?
What make of oil pressure sensors and what colour sensors do you have on the oil filter and side of the head?

 

Ha ha! I've not heard of them either,genuine vw or Mann next time me thinks, sensors were just off eBay 1.8 bar in block and 0.3 in head or something like that,I'm on 156k so I'm gonna consider new pump etc over winter amongst sorting my carb issues,the joys😩

Sensors I only get from the main Dealers when I can.
Bought a couple off Ebay and the oil leaked out of the plastic top section. So bought another same happened. Went to VW got OEM no problems

Back in the 80's I used to race a formula 1 stock car. I was proud to have a billet high volume oil pump. (should rule out problems with oil pressure?!) At a routine oil change service, I saved some time travelling across town to my usual oil supplier and bought some Castrol. Oil and filter changed and fired it up. We were very experienced with knowing where the oil pressure was on start up and it was nowhere near where it should have been. It was far too low. On a cold engine it should have been far far higher! After a few seconds, we turned the engine off. The oil and filter was changed for our usual, we fired up and oil pressure was back to normal straight away. we never got our heads round it, but we never again used Castrol! I've got a copy of an email from Robert Collins previously of Drake engineering specifically about Castrol. I will dig it out and post.

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From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: Re: Castrol
Date: 24 Jun 88 17:02:57 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

CASTROL LOVERS READ THIS:

In article <2022@alliant.Alliant.COM> powell@alliant.COM (Glen D. Powell) writes:
>
>re: Castrol GTX 20W50
>
>I have been using Castrol in my race car for years. Last year I suffered
>a spun rod bearing with only 9000 miles on a new engine. I have heard
>from various sources about problems with Castrol with respect to main
>and rod bearing failures and also excessive cam wear. I have also experienced
>the excessive cam wear problem with Castrol. I never really believed all
>the bad things I have heard about Castrol, until now. My engine builder asked
>me what I am running in the new new engine and I told him Castrol. He gagged.
>He offered to give me a case of Pennzoil GT 20W50 for *FREE*, if I would
>give away my remaining stock of Castrol and switch to the Pennzoil exclusively,
>and this guy _GIVES AWAY_ *NOTHING*. That is how convinced he is that the
>Castrol is N.G. So, I took him up on it, picked up the free case of Pennzoil,
>and will do the change this week. No more Castrol for me.
>
It's all true.  Here is what I know:  At Drake Engineering, we noticed a
high failure rate of our cams in customers' cars (~1%).  Our installation
instructions were stringent.  Of course, we could never verify if a
customer followed those instructions or not.  So, we started asking
questions.  Did you follow the instructions?  What kind of oil did you
use.  A preponderance of people said Castrol GTX.  (Part of the instructions
'recommended' Valvoline 20/50 Racing motor oil).  One thing made us curious,
(virtually) none of the failures were on Valvoline Racing oil.  So, we had
some of our techie chemical engineer-types look into the problem.  Castrol
was missing Zinc-disulphide – an ingredient that reduces excessive wear.

One of our customers (race cars) was sponcered by Castrol.  He showed his
sponcer representitive our installation instructions (that said in BIG
print "DO NOT USE CASTROL GTX").  Castrol got a little concerned, not
because some company said don't use their product, but because Drake
Engineering said don't use thier product.  They sent a team of engineers
to Drake to have a 'chat' with us.  We put our cards on the table, and
told them of our experience and the facts.  The concurred, Castrol was
missing Zinc-disulphide.  Six months later, 5 cases of the NEW Castrol
GTX showed up at our shipping bay (free).  So, as a controlled case,
we thought the best way to control the testing was to put the oil, and
a new cam in my car.  Two months later, my cam was flat.

When customers would question us on this, we responded:
"In 65 years of racing, 26 Indianapolis-500 wins, we have NEVER had an
oil related failure with Valvoline Racing oil."
I'll admit, I never clearly understood their definition of 'oil related
failure' but I'm told they mean oil break down.

Since my Castrol experience, I've been using nothing but Valvoline Racing
motor oil.  So, in all fairness, I should point out that I went to adjust
the valves two weeks ago, and found one flat cam lobe.

😳 interesting