No main headlights
Posted
#1628280
(In Topic #223542)
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Heres a strange one guys
I checked my lights yesterday to find out I have no main lights' I have side lights and high beam' can any one recommend a fault finding guide' I feel I'm nearly at the end of fixing these electric problems with the help from you guys.
I checked my lights yesterday to find out I have no main lights' I have side lights and high beam' can any one recommend a fault finding guide' I feel I'm nearly at the end of fixing these electric problems with the help from you guys.
Posted
Local Hero
Did you check your fuses? as there are 2 of them, and did you test your bulbs? It has been known to have both lows go out at the same time.
A great little upgrade is to relay your lamps (they get really brighter as you have more power getting to them with less wire.) and you remove high current items off the headlight switch. normal 11.8V after 13.75.
If your fuses are good, and there is 12V on the low side wire, then you probably are looking at the bulbs, if there is no 12V on both then it's your switch .
https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/relaying-your-head-lights.32215/
You can usually get a complete kit on ebay for a few quid, but make sure you get the one that has ceramic sockets.
In the thread link above I have two schematics, one for a 2 relay system and one for a 3 relay system that allows both the High and Low beam to be on together to get more light.
A great little upgrade is to relay your lamps (they get really brighter as you have more power getting to them with less wire.) and you remove high current items off the headlight switch. normal 11.8V after 13.75.
If your fuses are good, and there is 12V on the low side wire, then you probably are looking at the bulbs, if there is no 12V on both then it's your switch .
https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/threads/relaying-your-head-lights.32215/
You can usually get a complete kit on ebay for a few quid, but make sure you get the one that has ceramic sockets.
In the thread link above I have two schematics, one for a 2 relay system and one for a 3 relay system that allows both the High and Low beam to be on together to get more light.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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thanks, Briano'
Can i check the switch ? it doesn't look good
Can i check the switch ? it doesn't look good
Posted
Local Hero
Looks a little worse for wear…. and great solder joint… It looks like it got wet… You taking it off road, or driving across the channel.
more solder more solder…
more solder more solder…
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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Briano1234 said
Looks a little worse for wear…. and great solder joint… It looks like it got wet… You taking it off road, or driving across the channel.
more solder more solder…
its not on the road yet bri.
Is there a way to test the switch' I'm not sure what connections I need to test
Posted
Local Hero
if you look at the bentley or haynes, you will see the continuity tests for the switch as in which pin is a direct short to the other as well as the pot (brightness)
58b-58e 0hms full bright to a higher value that is High to low on the dash lights. when switch is on
30 to each other pin with switch is one of the 2 positions, will be 0 ohms when on, and infinite when off. low should be 56 to 30.
That gobbled solder on that one pin needs to be fixed, as that is a accident waiting to happen. I would heat the wire and repair that correctly as in using less solder, and heat shrink to insulate it over the re-solder repair, that is if I couldn't find a replacement pin.
58b-58e 0hms full bright to a higher value that is High to low on the dash lights. when switch is on
30 to each other pin with switch is one of the 2 positions, will be 0 ohms when on, and infinite when off. low should be 56 to 30.
That gobbled solder on that one pin needs to be fixed, as that is a accident waiting to happen. I would heat the wire and repair that correctly as in using less solder, and heat shrink to insulate it over the re-solder repair, that is if I couldn't find a replacement pin.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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Thanks bri i'm in the house now so have a better look at the drawings.
what I did find was a bad connection to the L/H high beam this was another issue the wire had corroded away at the plug but managed to push the spade out and resolder ' 30 years of use I guess.
I checked the switch visible and sprayed with WD40 I'm sure when I first connected the switch and put in the second position the main lights were on' I then tried the 1st position (sidelights) OK 2nd position Main lights No good but when I flicked the stalk for high beam all lights come on perfect' scratching my head with this one
what I did find was a bad connection to the L/H high beam this was another issue the wire had corroded away at the plug but managed to push the spade out and resolder ' 30 years of use I guess.
I checked the switch visible and sprayed with WD40 I'm sure when I first connected the switch and put in the second position the main lights were on' I then tried the 1st position (sidelights) OK 2nd position Main lights No good but when I flicked the stalk for high beam all lights come on perfect' scratching my head with this one
Posted
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Brianno' something is telling me I may have connected a wire on the fusebox incorrectly' I'm sure these lights worked before.
any ideas what connections are used on the fusbox for the lights
any ideas what connections are used on the fusbox for the lights
Posted
Local Hero
Was the key in the ignition and the switch to run?
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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Briano1234 said
Was the key in the ignition and the switch to run?
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
Thanks Bri will have a look when the weathers better' gives me something to go off
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okmate said
Briano1234 said
Was the key in the ignition and the switch to run?
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
Thanks Bri will have a look when the weathers better' gives me something to go off
okmate said
Briano1234 said
Was the key in the ignition and the switch to run?
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
Thanks Bri will have a look when the weathers better' gives me something to go off
okmate said
Briano1234 said
Was the key in the ignition and the switch to run?
High beams have 2 filaments in the main 7in and 5 inch so both would come on, that is the fact is that the main 7in has a separate high and low filament.
Verify that the bulbs low filament is good, on each that is if you run a Jumper wire from the battery to the top of the lamp (should be yellow and yellow/black wire) that the bulb illuminates….if it does then you are looking at
the Fuse (one for each low bulb) the wire from the main switch to the dimmer switch to the wire to the bulb.
With the key in and in the run position, you should have 12V+ to ground on the yellow yellow/black wires on the headlights with the switch on the second position.
The 12v+ to the lows runs from a9 on the fuse panel white/black two wires, one goes to the dimmer switch which by default routes power to the lows from black/white to yellow, and yellow/black The other runs to the fuse panel and stays. With the main switch on, this also powers the highs when you pull the hi- on the dimmer.
When you flash the dimmer, with out the key in or the switch on you get power to the high side via straight off the battery.
Thanks Bri will have a look when the weathers better' gives me something to go off
Just checked and when the ignition is on with a jumper wire from the battery to the yellow black of the bulb it illuniates' I have also checked when in position 2 of the light switch the meter reading between the yellow black wire and earth is a floating 8v
Posted
Local Hero
The switch Main if you are getting a float then I would say
What do you have with key in and run on pin X (black/yellow) of the switch in position 2?
What do you have on pin 30 Key in lamp switch off or position 1?
If you say less than 12V wire issue or load reduction relay issue….
If you say 12V, then bad switch.
What do you have with key in and run on pin X (black/yellow) of the switch in position 2?
What do you have on pin 30 Key in lamp switch off or position 1?
If you say less than 12V wire issue or load reduction relay issue….
If you say 12V, then bad switch.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Maybe you can shed some light on this' I've noticed a yellow/ grey wire on the back of the fuse box'this cable had a connector on it so I simply plugged this together however on other fuse box pictures it looks like its connected to the M connection on the rear of the fuse box.
whats your opinion guys
whats your opinion guys
Posted
Local Hero
Rats nest?
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Sorry for being a total tit'
Ive reset my self' here's where I am
I have continuity between the yellow black cable of the switch pin 30 to the headlight connector
I have continuity of the switch at pin 56 & X in position 2
with the engine started and a + probe in pin x I have fluctuating voltage when first touching the probe
There is no cable in connection 30 of the switch' should this be red 1.5 mm cable?
Ive reset my self' here's where I am
I have continuity between the yellow black cable of the switch pin 30 to the headlight connector
I have continuity of the switch at pin 56 & X in position 2
with the engine started and a + probe in pin x I have fluctuating voltage when first touching the probe
There is no cable in connection 30 of the switch' should this be red 1.5 mm cable?
Posted
Local Hero
Yes to the red
56 to X is off, and position 2 only.
56 to X is off, and position 2 only.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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Briano1234 said
Yes to the red
56 to X is off, and position 2 only.
I'm lost
Posted
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Is there any way i can test the Load relay?
looking at the drawing it would seem that I should have 12v from the red cable (30) to earth.
looking at the drawing it would seem that I should have 12v from the red cable (30) to earth.
Posted
Local Hero
Key in and Run the load reduction relay has power across it on any thing connected to the "X" circuit.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
So if i was to turn my wipers on and my car radio' before I started the car if the reduction relay was working the wipers and radio would go off when starting the car.
would this confirm that the relay is functioning
would this confirm that the relay is functioning
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