How many different ignition switches on the mk1?

Hi All

i bought a set of locks for my Rivage to make it all one key

When i got to the ignition housing i saw my old ignition switch had 1 extra small pin. near the "P"


So I swapped out the ignition switch. here is a pic of the original in my replacement ignition barrel  with the pin missing, i thought it may have something to do with the electric roof or something.



Now the problem is that my ignition live which normally comes on when i put the key in is constantly on. ie the hood goes up and down without key, also seems radio is constantly on!.

should i swap the ignition switch back? what does the extra pin do? or could the ignition switch i replaced have gone bad (it used to work properly before i changed the barrel over.

thanks in advance

Alps

 

If the old switch is still working just swop it back then problem solved

No idea as glyph can only buy one new ignition switch nowadays 

thanks for that

the switch i have currently in there was on another ignition housing, i swapped it over when changing the housing to get a single key, maybe its housing related, so i`ll put the one back in which came with this housing.

just wondering what the extra pin is for ?

On later cabbies that pin goes live when you insert your key in to the lock, so that you do not need to turn the ignition on to operate the roof.

You can still key the single key just change the switch

thanks guys

ade - makes sense - this may be the issue, either its got stuck when I swapped it over or the housing is different

jelly - that's exactly what I did, I think the new ignition housing I have put in might be slightly different and hence keeps that pin live without putting the key in.

looks like I`ll have to pull it all apart again….

thanks guys

so after a bit more research

there are two different part numbers for housings listed

155905851 - without ignition starter switch (no barrel)
155905851A - with key lock system (with barrel)

So I think the housing itself is the same.

the difference may well be in the Key barrel, two part numbers listed.
191905855 -  >> 15-H-032 111
1H0905855A - F 15-H-032 112>>

as mines a later one I need the 2nd of the part numbers. I have a feeling the lock barrel that is in the housing which I got as part of the lock set is the older type as the part where the black cylinder sleeve goes is a little narrower. It may be a bit longer and may well be pushing into the ignition switch which is then activation the live.

time to look into re-keying ignition barrel if that's at all possible?




 

your rivage should have both the SU and P terminals, someone has fitted the wrong switch in the past. they are both used for the hood electrics, and even on those without by this age they still have the P though not all have SU.

SU is live with the key inserted into the ignition, on later cars its used for the stereo accessory feed. Also on some it is used for lights on and/or seatbelt warning systems. Plus it's used on cabrio with electric roof.

P is live with ignition off, its for the parking light system on all later VW. On electric hood cars its also used along with the SU pin so the hood works with key in ign off.

thanks John!

just to clarify - my rivage had the SU & P terminals

the replacement barrel housing(that came with my lock set ) did not - so I swapped the switch with the correct one which has the "p and SU", ever since have had this problem.

so either the ignition switch has broken since moving over… or the barrel has something different about it.

now its all on the car im trying to minimise the work needed to fix it.

appreciate all the feedback

was it a pattern set, or possibly from an older car? if so that could be why. the late/genuine lock has a peg that fires out to push the SU pin, if the replacement just has that peg always stuck out this will be why.

P wont be affected by the above either way its just live when the switch is in the 'off' position

my old 83 cabrio didnt have an SU pin so i swapped the switch for one with it and it was fine, original lock and housing to the car as far as I am aware. It was genuine at least I know that much, and it was old as I had to strip the lock down and fiddle with the fingers to make it work properly

This is an old topic, but I have information that might help someone, I had this issue like 2 years ago after replacing parts, at first I did install a shim spacer just to band aid, but today I decided to work on it and I found the origin, on the switch there are 2 tabs, I have tried 10 brands of aftermarket switches and all of them have the same issue, the longer tab on all aftermarket is shorter than the original VW part, this makes the switch very close to the barrel end, and when you insert the key, the barrel tip presses the switch and the ignition turns on.

This is the issue, this is shorter on aftermarket models

Useful post, good on you for taking the time to share.