Glimmering rear side lights when using indicators

Had this issue of glimmering rear side lights when using the indicators / hazards for some time and was picked up on previous MOTs as an advisory with my previous garage in Hampshire.

Now having relocated to West Sussex my MOT is due in July and my new selected garage might not be so lenient.

I spent a bit of time checking the back end of the car yesterday

With a multi-meter I bell tested the earth bolt / point on the boot floor with every bolt / attachment in the area with no faults.

In addition:

The rear light earth connections, no fault.

Number plate lights, no fault.

I decided to connect a direct earth from the battery to the earth bolt in the boot, the fault was still there.

I will keep checking the earths on the car, but welcome any assistance / experience  of a similar issue. Regards

 

I've got a similar issue with mine that I have yet to track down. Only on the LH side, but if I brake with the LH indicator on, it double flashes (as does the brake light).
And to make it more interesting my Mrs noticed the other day that when I go into reverse, the fron LH side light comes on (very dim) and I get the same double flash if I put the LH indicator on (not that I'd do that going into reverse!). Did the same checks you have done on the rear and everything seems as it should. It's particularly confusing as other than the chassis, there is no common earth wire between front and rear, reverse/indicator/side light.
I can handle domestic wiring, and electronics, but earth faults on a car have me stumped!

Verify that the Battery to frame and the Frame to the engine/tranny ground wire is intact and no voltage drop or one of .5Vdc or less is present. Greater than that you need to replace it.

You can use two off the shelf cables.
CIS cars the frame ground can be gotten to from under the car, yep you have to Jack it up and secure it on stands.  Digifant and Carbed cars are easier.

In the rear of the car, take a wire and add a large Ring connector to it.  Attach the Ringed end to one of your Bumper Bolts in the boot, and splice the other end in to your ground cables going to the lights. Do this for both sides.

Dual filament bulbs can break one filament and that can short on to the surviving one.  This can power things sporadically.

Current in Electrics flows from Ground to Positive, and will use any and all things to get ground to a positive.

I have seen clutch cables and speedo cable become main ground for the cars, and when the conditions are right I have see cars starters use them and usually fry the clocks and things.

Lamp sockets get corroded, Bulbs go bad, wires get nicked and short ant where.

Remember that the Turns and the Hazards use all common parts.  The Flasher Switch is the common point of failure.

If you have had your Bezel and clocks out, then the main power line to the Hazards is unshielded, and shorts out.
Causing the fuse to blow it is usually the higher number fuse, in my Cabriolet it was f19.  Using a small piece of heat shrink, will stop that from happening.  

The main indication that the fuse is gone is that when you turn on the turns, the indicator lamp but glows.

my 2 pence, I have a thread on my digi, in the archive section or search google for ground effects by briano.

Ground effects and the repair of your car. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
 

Wow, thanks for your tuppence.

I will follow through on these items. Not familiar with some of the terminology (CIS), I'll come back if I need help.

I didn't mention that I also have a battery drop that if left will flatten the battery in 3 weeks or so. 40 - 60 mA. My battery voltage was about 11.5V but did start the car.

I have set up a trickle charger, but it only masks the issue.

I will look behind the dash again, I have just done the speedo repair, well versed with it removal now.

Thanks for your help.

My Gti side or brake lights (can't remember which) pulse very slightly in time with the indicators. I've cleaned up all the earths, bulbs and cluster connections (all were pretty clean and shiney anyway) The problem still persists.

Seems that this issue may be a common one on a serviceable car.

I have done the checks at the back end of the car and the earth wiring.

A thought: Clearly this indicator circuit is not ignition controlled and can be used for parking lights and the hazard warning switch via the indicator relay in my case No. 21 part no 111953227D. I am suspecting a leakage over the relay.

Looking at other owners issues, the relay item No is. 191, Part No. 111953227. No suffix "D". In other cases "A" & "C". What is this significance of the suffix letters?

In addition, 1H0953227 is also used in the 7 Zap Parts Catalogue.

Confused!

What should be the correct Part No for my 1983 1.5 GL?

Great call on the side light Malcom - I forgot that could also be controlled by the indicator switch!
I'll take a look at the relay circuit, if it is in the Haynes and see if I can jump it so the indicator is permenantly on, and see what happens when I hit the brake pedal…Might rule something out. Weird how it's on'y on one side on mine.

My understanding of VW part numbers is that the letter suffix represents a newer version of the part.
Somewhere on this forum is post that includes the fuse box layout - might help identify the correct relay number.

J

Found it:
View topic: Fuze box wiring layout . Relay locations . Fuze locations . - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Thanks for that. I have printed it for reference.

I spent another day yesterday going through Briano1234s checklist for the glimmering lights.

Having previously checked the Battery, gearbox and engine earths. I have added an additional earth between the left hand bumper bolt and the standard hatchback floor earthing point.

I purchased a replacement relay, third party, the glimmering still persisted when using the indicators / hazard warning with the sidelights on. So I refitted the original VW relay.

In addition, I dismantled the dash again and checked all the wiring to the dash switches etc. Having previously done this before I noticed that the looms a bit tight to the hazard, rear window heater and foglight switches. On my restoration I had tie wrapped the main loom to the instrument panel metal frame/ mounting.

Un-clipping this allowed more flexibility in the loom to reassemble the dash, also making a clean separation of each switch loom, including the radio/ speaker leads, heater control, etc.

I should have done this before during the restoration, the heated rear window had two mini chocolate box connectors fitted by the previous owner for its power power input and output to the switch.

With all the in/out dash removals for the speedo oddmeter gear faults, the output lead had disconnected from the switched output chocolate block. Needless to say, I removed them and repaired the leads properly.

After the dash reassembly, i tested again, the glimmering still persisted a little. I will  continue to pursue the issue.

Did you use LED's for the replacement bulbs per chance, and they were inclusive of the Resistor?  As when you swap LED's for Standard filament bulbs, they have to be resistor type, or you have to add a resistor to the circuit for them to act proper.

No, I still have all the original bulbs, not to keen on fitting LEDs, though thanks for the advice, it would be great to fit higher wattage bulbs in the headlights for night time driving.

No, I still have the original bulbs fitted, not too keen on fitting LEDS. Thanks for the advice, though I wouldn't mind fitting brighter bulbs in the headlights for night time driving.

I will leave that for another day after I have resolved my current issues.

Oops double tap.

Malcolm said

No, I still have the original bulbs fitted, not too keen on fitting LEDS. Thanks for the advice, though I wouldn't mind fitting brighter bulbs in the headlights for night time driving.

I will leave that for another day after I have resolved my current issues.

Only do that if you install relays to your lamps and change the sockets to Ceramic.

The sell ready made kits on EBAY for less than 20 bucks usd.  After the install you will see the voltage on your lamps go from 11.2 to 13.4 More Voltage more light.