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Wiring in rev gauge

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Hi,

I have a 1.8t 20v running qpeng management and in the instructions it says connect the new wire labelled tacho in the qpeng loom to the wire from the clock's rev counter. Same with the coolant temp wiring. I have had a look at behind the clocks and this appears to be the plug. Could anybody inform me as to which wire is the rev counter and which is the coolant temp? I've been meaning to do this for ages and would like to get them both working!



Any help would be great.
Thanks

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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its the red/black wire on the old engine loom plug, coolant temp is red/yellow

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Old engine loom plug?  O_o so not the red/black wire and red/yellow coming from the back of the speedo? Cheers rubjonny

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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well you could wire it straight to the cluster plug if you like, but better to splice it to the old engine loom

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Ah okay i understand! Hopefully ill finally get the dials working tomorrow :D thanks for your help

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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you want to keep your wires as short and neat as possible, cant you connect them at the fuse box for accessiblility ?

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unityjon said

you want to keep your wires as short and neat as possible, cant you connect them at the fuse box for accessiblility ?

The fusebox is an absolute shamble of wires, there's no way I'd be able to locate it and fit it there.
However, I did connect the new 'tacho' labelled wire to the red/black wire from that plug and it didn't work - and now the oil light on the speedo is flashing and buzzing! Why is this? It's blooming annoying - it never done this before I fiddled around with the wires :( how can I stop it?

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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put it back how it was ?

the oil light flashing / buzzing is probably due to you earthing out that plug with your new wire, possibly.

follow the feed for the tacho from the coil (black/thin red) possibly from the coil to the fuse box, then check where it comes out the other side of the fuse box and heads off to the dials, it may not be the same colour, teh other way is to track the connections on the back of the cluster from the tacho guage to the pin connector to make sure you have the right one !

 If as you say the wiring in the fuse box is a shamble perhaps you have things cross wired, its easy to do, i've been there, maybe spend some time (i know its boring) sorting it out and tracing each wire so you know its correct and safe ??

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unityjon said

put it back how it was ?

the oil light flashing / buzzing is probably due to you earthing out that plug with your new wire, possibly.

follow the feed for the tacho from the coil (black/thin red) possibly from the coil to the fuse box, then check where it comes out the other side of the fuse box and heads off to the dials, it may not be the same colour, teh other way is to track the connections on the back of the cluster from the tacho guage to the pin connector to make sure you have the right one !

 If as you say the wiring in the fuse box is a shamble perhaps you have things cross wired, its easy to do, i've been there, maybe spend some time (i know its boring) sorting it out and tracing each wire so you know its correct and safe ??

Yeah I'll put it back how it was and see if that sorts it.
The wires that go into the engine bay from the fusebox are very random and hard to trace, so will have to follow from the dials to the fusebox again to check I've got the right one, as you say it may be a different colour.

That sounds like something I'll have to do at some point.

Honestly I really regret buying this car, the guy I bought it off was a complete idiot and has done everything so poorly. Would have been better, cheaper and easier to do the conversion myself on a basic mk1 golf  :P

Thanks

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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Stick With it, when i did my KR conversion i thought i was being real careful and taking my time keeping it all neat, doing one thing at a time but i still ended up with a few crossed wires that i cant for the life of me explain !!  :$

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unityjon said

Stick With it, when i did my KR conversion i thought i was being real careful and taking my time keeping it all neat, doing one thing at a time but i still ended up with a few crossed wires that i cant for the life of me explain !!  :$

That's electrics though isn't it, they're a pain! Anyway, thanks for the help mate, have put it back how it was and the light/buzzing has stopped. Will very carefully trace to the fusebox and see where I went wrong - and when I've got the time will probably end up doing all the wiring myself. Hopefully eliminating all the random wires not being used for anything that go into the engine bay!
Kind regards

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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this may help you lad:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775

Assuming its a later blade type CE1 fusebox, from the original mk1 plug you'll need to keep:
D
1 - blu/blk- oil pressure switch (0.3 bar)
9 - grn/yel- windscreen wiper motor pin 53b
12- grn - windscreen wiper motor pin 53
17- grn/blk- windscreen wiper motor pin 53e
20- blk/gry- windscreen wiper motor pin 53a
21- yel - oil pressure switch (1.8 bar)
22- br - windscreen wiper motor pin 31, and to main battery earth jumper on lighting loom
24- red/blk- starter motor
26- red/blk- ignition coil pin 1 (rev counter)
29- yel/red- coolant temp gauge sender

The wire colours for D/1 and D/21 may be switched, also one of them may have the green/black MFA oil temp sender wire to one of these pins and oil pressure wire moved to a separate spade if it was an early loom. Later looms have the oil temp sender on a separate spade instead.

D/2 and D/7 are ignition live feeds which if there could be handy for relay triggers and such depending on how the loom was made.

D/13 is the fuel pump relay earth trigger for the ECU, if you have a wire for this on your qpeng loom you can run it here and fit a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay. however this will only work if the car used to be a GTI and so the fuel pump power wire to E/14 is still there. if not you could use the large spade N with an inline fuse instead. (N is not fused, E/14 is)


Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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rubjonny said

this may help you lad:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775

Assuming its a later blade type CE1 fusebox, from the original mk1 plug you'll need to keep:
D
1 - blu/blk- oil pressure switch (0.3 bar)
9 - grn/yel- windscreen wiper motor pin 53b
12- grn - windscreen wiper motor pin 53
17- grn/blk- windscreen wiper motor pin 53e
20- blk/gry- windscreen wiper motor pin 53a
21- yel - oil pressure switch (1.8 bar)
22- br - windscreen wiper motor pin 31, and to main battery earth jumper on lighting loom
24- red/blk- starter motor
26- red/blk- ignition coil pin 1 (rev counter)
29- yel/red- coolant temp gauge sender

The wire colours for D/1 and D/21 may be switched, also one of them may have the green/black MFA oil temp sender wire to one of these pins and oil pressure wire moved to a separate spade if it was an early loom. Later looms have the oil temp sender on a separate spade instead.

D/2 and D/7 are ignition live feeds which if there could be handy for relay triggers and such depending on how the loom was made.

D/13 is the fuel pump relay earth trigger for the ECU, if you have a wire for this on your qpeng loom you can run it here and fit a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay. however this will only work if the car used to be a GTI and so the fuel pump power wire to E/14 is still there. if not you could use the large spade N with an inline fuse instead. (N is not fused, E/14 is)



Yes it is the blade type CE1 fusebox.

That is a massive massive help, thank you! That'll make it a lot easier when I try to sort the mess out.

Really appreciate it

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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Found D26 on the back of the fusebox, it was red/black - connected it up to the new wire labelled 'tacho' and again the rev gauge still didn't work and the oil light/buzzer came on  :P I've connected it to the wire right at the plug and to the wire from the back of the fusebox and both times it set the oil light off and rev gauge still didn't work - confused  O_o

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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silly question but you are totally removing the old connection, not just stuffing them in together at teh plugs? if you keep the original wire connected and just hang the new wire off it at a join you'll create an earth loop and get the sort of results your experiencing ?
It has to be one (old) or the other (new)

just asking….

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I spliced into the wire right at the plug and then ran that wire to the engine bay and connected it directly to the new 'tacho' wire. That didn't work so went to back of fusebox and connected from the wire there and then connected to new wire which didn't work either.
Have I done something really stupid but just not realised?  :P

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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ah, you are fitting a rev counter adaptor right? the qpeng loom probably wont have one included:
http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=440379

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Oh, no I haven't got one of them - I assumed from the instructions and info on Qpeng that it would work straight off

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 

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yeah maybe it has one included, but best to double check with them to confirm :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Will do, thank you :)

'82 c formel e - 1.8t 20v 
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