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Really stiff 02a cable clutch

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Hi All
Just getting to the finishing stages of my ABF conversion and the clutch is giving me a headache.
I elected to switch to 02a box as one came with the engine. I have swapped the shifter tower and change mech to an 02j type from an Audi A3 - that part works a treat. I can select all gears using the shifter with the engine off without pressing the clutch, so my shift setup works.
However, when I start the engine I have to put huge pressure on the pedal to be able to engage the gear that my steering column is moving quite a bit and it's really difficult. Probably too stiff to drive for any length of time and i'm used to the mk1 std clutch..

My cable is a Mk1 1.3 and I have repaired the bulk head with a plate bolted in place. The cable runs along back of inlet manifold over brake servo and down behind header tank to the clutch actuator from the rear.
I am going to have another look with fresh eyes this afternoon, but thought I'd see if anyone else has had similar issues.

Many thanks
Huw

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Is the cable too tight?

i just about got gears with the 1.3 cable but the clutch was slipping,  i shortened the outer sheath on the actuator end of the cable by 2-3cm to give me more adjustment,(use a grinder to cut the metal inner rings) the cable wasnt so taught after that either

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Cheers G60rge, but i'm convinced the cable is fine. With engine on and in 1st, i can't get the wheels to stop with the clutch pressed. Its also like doing a 200kg squat each push. Ive oiled the cable, removed & checked mechanical lever. I think the issue is clutch plate, but having taken it off i can't see anythink obvoius, other than the plate needs 100kg to operate it. But this may be the norm…
Stumped! Might just get new clutch kit as its all off.

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what clutch was fitted to the engien originally? if you didnt buy one as you say it could be a cheap or bad kit. new sachs kit and you should be sorted :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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It's a luk which doesn't look worn…

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hmm luk good gear usually, is the pressure plate new looking maybe they only swapped the friction disc?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Yes, Luk are suposed to be good. OEM supplier. The friction disc and pressure plate both look new, but the release bearing looks a bit rough.

I still don't get how it wasn't actuating though. I'm not convinced there is anything wrong with the clutch parts. Everything seems to work fine off the car. Clutch lever, cable, release bearing & bracket, etc. Even though the pressure plate needs ~100kg load to operate it, this should be well within the capability of the cable mechanism with the mechanical advantage available. With the amount of force I had to put through the foot pedal I'm suprised something didn't bend or break. As i type, I'm wondering if my release bearing was binding on the centre shaft. I'll look for evidence tonight.

Confession time - I bought a Transmech kit  :$
Sachs are good, but still quite pricey even when discounted. I know Transmech don't get good press, but I thought I'd give one a go to see if it solves my problem (in the short term… :o  ). Funds are tight.

Cheers

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huw169 said

Hi All
Just getting to the finishing stages of my ABF conversion and the clutch is giving me a headache.
I elected to switch to 02a box as one came with the engine. I have swapped the shifter tower and change mech to an 02j type from an Audi A3 - that part works a treat. I can select all gears using the shifter with the engine off without pressing the clutch, so my shift setup works.
However, when I start the engine I have to put huge pressure on the pedal to be able to engage the gear that my steering column is moving quite a bit and it's really difficult. Probably too stiff to drive for any length of time and i'm used to the mk1 std clutch..

My cable is a Mk1 1.3 and I have repaired the bulk head with a plate bolted in place. The cable runs along back of inlet manifold over brake servo and down behind header tank to the clutch actuator from the rear.
I am going to have another look with fresh eyes this afternoon, but thought I'd see if anyone else has had similar issues.

Many thanks
Huw
Have you tested the cable off the car? Is it sticky? Is it sticky if you bend it tight? Have you simply used the original cable? I use a caddy diesel cable as its metal reinforced where it exits the bulhead - works a treat (top tip - fill the cable with oil before fitting)

See here for a piccie    http://www.paul-cullen.co.uk/Images/Golf/DSCF2279%20%28Small%29.JPG
 

Jon`s Dad

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Cable is good cheers. Very slippy.
New clutch arrived today, and in comparison the old clutch is 'not so fresh looking'.
However, that still doesn't explain the stiffness. New clutch plate takes same load to actuate as old one - my weight. New clutch fitted and pedal is nice and easy. I can only assume the release bearing was binding or catching on the spring legs, but there is no visible damage. based on the forces involved, I would expect to see evidence.
Strange one.
And a major pain doing the box on your own…. :lol:

Oh, Transmech clutches don't look bad at all. Time will tell though. The friction plate actually had LUK stamped on it..

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Update..

When I fitted the box and cable only, the clutch was fine.
After I had fitted all the other bits (drive shafts, gear change cables, starter, etc) it was really stiff/not working agin.
Massive head in hands and shouty moment. Was just about to start stripping it out again as I couldn't see how adding the other bits could influence the operation of the clutch.
Then got logical and started undoing things a bit and trying the clutch and found the problem…..

I released the front bolt that holds the changer bracket to the top of the gearbox, and the clutch worked perfectly. I must have swapped these bolts for longer ones, and the front hole is through the gearbox casing and the longer bolt was stopping the actuator mechanism resulting in a really stiff clutch that doesn't release the friction plate…

I suspect I now have a cable that is a few cm's longer than it should be so i'll be carrying a spare, and my bulk head plate still looks fine. Clutch is now really light and works well.

I was not a happy chap for a few minutes though when I had the problem back……

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oops! well at least you found the problem and probably have a perfectly fine spare clutch now as well :lol:

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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'Always look on the bright side of life' sung to the tune of the newley reformed Monty Python….

Just in case mt Transmech turns to chewing gum…. LOL
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