g60 mk1 engine wiring

Im just trying to rewire my mk1, ive pretty much followed the intructions off the guide on here and im getting the engine to fire but as soon as i stop cranking it cuts out.  Either the fuel pump or the ecu is losing power.

Any ideas as to what i should be testing/looking at?

Its an 83 mk1 with a g60 engine installed

thanks

Have you ever had the engine running? I had the same problem on mine it was running fine then 6 months later came back to it and wouldn't start found out it was a loose connection on the fuel rail a white  plug connection on the end I think have a play about with that.  I've taken my engine out the car now and hopefully putting it in my series1 over the summer and can see the wiring being a  pain hope you get it sorted. Any pics?

Thanks for the reply, yes i had the thing running the other day but wasnt wired right as my mate added a relay for the fuel pump which was a bit messy and the fuel pump was on constantly on ignition, i read up and can see nobody else has added extra relays so im trying to wire it through the fusebox using the original stuff so its tidier and less chance of things going wrong havent got any decent pics yet, il update my build thread soon though

for an original conversion you would need to run the yellow/blue fuel pump trigger wire from ecu pin 3 to D/13 (used to go to g1/3 on the ce2 loom), then fit a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay to slot 2.

next run a power pin to E/14, with 2 wires. one feeds the fuel pump, the other crimp a male spade on it and then crimp a female spade to the fuel injector and lambda probe wires and plug it in there.

rubjonny said

for an original conversion you would need to run the yellow/blue fuel pump trigger wire from ecu pin 3 to D/13 (used to go to g1/3 on the ce2 loom), then fit a 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay to slot 2.

next run a power pin to E/14, with 2 wires. one feeds the fuel pump, the other crimp a male spade on it and then crimp a female spade to the fuel injector and lambda probe wires and plug it in there.

yup looks like i missed out the fuel pump trigger wire, will have a go in a bit
my fuel pump relay has this number on it 3.300.210

is this the correct one?

i remember changing it when i had a carb conversion as the trigger was on the opposite corner a while ago

thanks

looks liek a kjet relay, it would work fine so long as you have a rev counter signal to the fusebox. the g60 ecu signal wont work if its from a later corrado instead you run the rev counter wire to the coil -ve

ok, its a rallye ecu, i have a dodgy rev counter (i think its the clock as it comes on every now and again. do you know off your head what block the rev counter pin is on?

so if it doesnt work i run a wire from the negative on the coil to the rev counter pin on one of the blocks?

aha, the rev counter signal is what tells the kjhet relay to trigger so thats likely the issue. for yours you need to run a wire from fusebox D/26 to the coil -ve and that should sort the rev counter

still fires then dies when i stop cranking dude the red and black was already connected to the negative side of the coil

so far i have
green to negative side of coil

red/yellow and red/white spliced into e14

black/yell to b8

all earths connected together going to the chassis

blue/yell to d13

the fuel pump does not prime on ignition but pumps when cranking then stops when not cranking after engine fires the isv doesnt hum on ignition

i saw this in the guide
Now for the Ecu power wire this the large Black with yellow stripe and needs to be connected to a switched +12v I used a multimeter and used one of the spare terminals on the fusebox make sure it still receives +12v while cranking or it wont start. - this is the wire i have connected to b8?

I think its the black/yellow to B/8 which is the problem, B/8 is starter cranking live and the black/yellow if its the wire I'm thinking of is for the ECU main live

for the ecu relay you could splice to the coil live, but I prefer to add an ecu relay above the fusebox for it

strange that most guides say to add it to that???  

spliced it into d23, when i heard the isv buz on ignition i knew it would be problem solved!!

started right up im well happy

thanks for your help mate

heh strange unless they meant the green/red which is cranking live to ecu, but usually you would plug it into the spade hanging off of b/18

ok, new to this thread but stuck on the same thing. trying to get my 16V G60 MK1 swap on the road but it wont start.

no pulse to the injector and no spark

is the blue with yellow actually needed in this swap if i'm still using the mk1 fuel pump relay? it looks like trigger OUT from the ECU but i it looks like the mk1 just using ignition as the trigger.

red/green is to ignition. red/black on black plug next to starter # 50. (did try #50 too)

red/white (O2) & red/yellow) fuel rail - to fuel pump relay #87

black/yellow (ECU and ISV) - to fuel pump relay #15

brown/white - ground to head
brown (2) - ground to battery

my fuse box version is page 9.
http://chris.chemidl.in/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Vw-wiring-diagrams-1982-1983-1984.pdf
the started turns the engine just fine.

I don't think the fuel pump is powering on from #87 so i took the cover of the relay and closed the circuit with my fingers and i hear the pump run, tried cranking like this, still nothing. relay is getting battery and ignition power. fine.

one note, with ignition on the can feel with my hand that the ISV has is humming a little. so the black/yellow does have powe with ignition on and the ground is making its way into and back out of the ECU.

been stuck for a few weeks on this. help me out dub fam. :-)