Serious request for help as soon as possible! =[

My car broke down a week last sunday and it appeared that it was due to the car not being able to produce a spark.

I've just replaced the coil and have wired it up correctly (positives and negatives) and it's still not firing at all.

The engine will turn over and crank fine but just won't catch.

There's fuel in the fuel filter, airbox is fine etc etc.

It's just not even attempting to catch.

All earth's are fine etc.

All fuses are present and correct as well as relays.

It's a 1984 S2 1.1

If anyone can think of anything at all that might help/lead me to what the problem is then please do reply straight away =[

I'm at a loss and it's really quite upsetting!

 :cry:  :cry:

have you checked the HT leads are all ok and connected in the right position ?

check the voltage at the coil during cranking.

check your points and condenser

Do you get a spark from the king lead when cranking?

TT

Check that your points are set correctly, and not welded together.
 As above,check you get a spark from the kinglead, hold it near the block when cranking. You should see a spark jump the gap.

mines has also started to do this!will need to check it out tomorrow.

Does it fire at all when cranking?
if so then if the points are set correctly it will be the condensor (capacitor in the distributor) that is shot.
Firing whilst cranking but will not actually catch and run is a classic condensor fail.

ignition module?

Unless it's been retro fitted it won't have an ignition module.

TT

twinturbo said

Unless it's been retro fitted it won't have an ignition module.

TT

Sorry, didnt see the engine size..

check the cambelt hasn't slipped as this will upset the timing badly.

also, have you checked to see if you do have a spark? if you aren't getting fuel it wont try to catch either. same if theres too much fuel?

pull a plug and touch it to the cylinder head whilst plugged in. Get a mate/partner/glamorous assistant to turn it over. if theres a spark then good, if not check the points as said and if they're fine whack new leads on.

if there is a spark it's probabaly fuel related. We really need to know as has been said whether it just spins aimlessly or whether it pops and bangs a bit.

Jon.

check the cambelt hasn't slipped as this will upset the timing badly.

also, have you checked to see if you do have a spark? if you aren't getting fuel it wont try to catch either. same if theres too much fuel?

pull a plug and touch it to the cylinder head whilst plugged in. Get a mate/partner/glamorous assistant to turn it over. if theres a spark then good, if not check the points as said and if they're fine whack new leads on.

if there is a spark it's probabaly fuel related. We really need to know as has been said whether it just spins aimlessly or whether it pops and bangs a bit.

Jon.

Hi guys, thanks a lot for all of your quick replies/help.

Tested the King lead from the coil and there's no spark being produced. At most we got was a tiny, weak spark.

Also tried with one of the HT leads pulled out and a spark plug connected and put on the top of the block and no spark.

Nothing strong enough to actually fire the engine!

The car will turn over but no pops, bangs or splutters.

However the replacement coil was last tested in 1995 (14 years ago!) So i'm gonna get an exchange for a newer one tomorrow and try a new coil again.

The cambelt is  fine and in place, no signs of over-fuelling.

However, before fitting the new coil last night, I did check the fusebox and found that two of my fuses had actually melted (blowers and rad fan)

I was curious as to whether this could possibly mean that the coil has been on it's way out for a while, and when finally going shot, positive and negatives inside the coil touched and sent a live signal back through the wiring and burnt out the two fuses?

If not, I'll try the condenser so I shall get one of those tomorrow as well, just in case the new coil doesn't work.

The HT Leads are all fine and were replaced not long ago, all are also in the correct ignition positions/in sequence.

Also has a new dizzy-cap so that's fine as well as the rotor arm.

RAC came out (due to a friend calling round and calling them out) and he found the coil wasn't producing the correct voltage output when cranking.

He's also recommended getting a more recently tested/newer coil and replacing it, wired in correctly, earthed etc and if not that then it's a problem to do with the electrics going to the coil due to the King lead from the coil not producing hardly any spark at all.

Thanks again guys.

Any more advice welcome!

Josh

yeah sounds like the coil then.  whack another new one on and i would replace the king lead at least, just to be safe.

Jon.

Crowson_punk said

yeah sounds like the coil then.  whack another new one on and i would replace the king lead at least, just to be safe.

Jon.

Yeah, I've rubbed down the earth and body so that the earth's definitely decent and will try fitting it tomorrow.

Also will get a new condenser and fit that as well if the coil  doesn't sort it.

Thanks a lot for your help mate, really appreciate it!

And everyone else's!

It's nice to know i'm on a forum with people that actually do bother helping others etc!

connect a wire from the battery +12 to the coil + terminal.

Don't leave it on for too long as the coil will overheat.

TT

twinturbo said

connect a wire from the battery +12 to the coil + terminal.

Don't leave it on for too long as the coil will overheat.

TT

Bit lost with this one mate, in order to do what exactly?

 :dontknow:

He's suggesting bypassing the ballast resistor if its fitted.

I wouldnt, id test it with a multimeter first, no risks involved there.

I wouldnt, id test it with a multimeter first, no risks involved there.

That was the first thing I asked him to do and has not been done as yet as far as I can tell. No point swapping stuff around untill your sure there's actualy a 12v at the coil during cranking.

There is no risk unless there's already a short in the wiring back to the balast circuit.

TT