Mk1 that wont run

Hi all
ive bought a 1272c mk1 as a non runner, the previous owner gave up on it, he told me that it blew the head gasket ,which he replaced and since then it wont run.
so far I have swapped the carb for a peirburg as it had a webber32 on it and it was a unknown, ivjust had the head off again reseated all the valves set the tappets and refitted with a new head gasket. set the timing ect
It starts and runs but will not idle or run below 1500rpm

today i want to check the compression  but what else could it be, am i over looking something????

Any coments or advice thanks

Have you adjusted the mixture and idle on the carb?

Is the valve and ignition timing correct?

Hi crazyquiff
The valve timing is correct as is the ignition timing i used the light bulb method.
I have a friend helping me who is quite experienced with cars

forgot to mention have also changed the points and condensor
Ihave heard about rust in the fillerneck/ fuel tank causing cars to cut out could this be an extreme case???? some thing i have not checked yet

Ihave paid your web site a visit very cool  :wink:
Alan

You swapped the weber for a pierburg

Put the weber back on the pierburgs are poop

I probably will nce i can get it running, I took it off as it was an unknown and the peirburg came off a running car. but it has not helped :cry:

Give the carb a good clean making sure all the jets arent blocked

harvey_inc said

Ihave paid your web site a visit very cool  :wink:
Alan

Thanks  

Have you adjusted the mixture and idle on the carb???

If the engine runs fine and pulls fine over 1500rpm I doubt it is the fuel supply to the carb as it needs more fuel at higher load/revs.

One option might be to try another or test the fuel pump - I bit of a long shot but may not be delivering the fuel at low revs.  Another option is to bypass the fuel return to see if there is a problem with the canister thing.

Mullet52 - Pierburg carbs are fine when they are not worn out - you can't really compare a 25 year old carb to a new one!!

Cheers

Rich

Well am presuming its a pierburg off a 25+ year old car, so could be tired

Mullet52 said

Well am presuming its a pierburg off a 25+ year old car, so could be tired

No doubt - but it did come from a running engine

Harvey - also check for vacuum leaks

thanks guys
the peiburg carb is of a h reg mk2 that a bloke down the road is breaking, he tells me the car ran before i took it apart,
surley this cancels out a dodgy carb?? if after changing and it still wont run.
fuel pump could be a posibility, although the one on the car looks to be fairly new if that is any thing to go by
thanks for the quick replys

I know you say you've set the timing with a test bulb method, but this isn't really accurate enough, I set mine the same way and it wasn't right.

The camshaft marker for valve timing may be bent so you may be a tooth out without realising it, I was a tooth out and still managed to get the car to run the same as you at higher revs.

I know I've posted this same solution many times before but I still stand by it :

If you don't have a strobe timing light and the correct ameter volt meter set-up to set the dwell angle (for points) or to see if the timing belt is actualy set properly, then call out a mobile mechanic costs about ?40-50 and let them set it up for you.

I was tearing my hair out trying to figure out why I couldn't get my car to run properly and was on the verge of attacking it with a big hammer before I called someone out, and now I'm    as it's all good.

i may have to resort to getting some one to come and have a look, because i need the car to run as its ment to be my daily runaround but this last week i have had to beg and borrow to get a car to get to work.
Thanks Guys
Alan

Measure the ignition timing with a strobe, rather than the static method.

Did you change the points after you set the timing? In which case, you'll need to do it again. And set the dwell (points gap) properly too.

Once you've done that, take a close look at your ignition leads and spark plugs; and clean the outside and inside of the dizzy cap.

Once all that's out the way and you're confident its not the ignition system, measure the mixture using a gas analyser. It might have worked previously on another car but the carb will need setting up for yours too.

Honestly mate if you're not sure what you're doing then I would get someone out it may cost you half a days wages but will save giving yourself a headache.

I gapped my points to the specified gap and did everything by the book and markers and I just admitted defeat in the end.

The other good thing about getting someone out is that if it is something else giving you the problem they will be able to tell you without you having to replace parts blindly trying to cure problems that probably don't exist.

I kind of agree with you snoopy-king, but for me half the "fun" if you can call it that is getting the car running myself….all be it with a bit of help from a friend and reserch on the net.
This week is a bit of a night mare for me as im on nights so sleep most of the day and then try to spend some time with the kids in the evening, so no real time to be playing with stuborn cars :wink:
Thanks for all the advice chaps will bear this all in mind when i get some time on the car hopefully tomorrow :roll:

Just to let you know tha t i have finally got the car running, looks like it was a combination of poorly seated valves, timing not 100% and muck in the carb. :mrgreen:
now just need to quickly whip out the gearbox and change a slipping clutch
thanks for all the help chaps
Alan