ARC894Y
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ARC894Y
Project Corona
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ARC894Y
I temporarily sealed it with Eastwood 2k epoxy primer while I get the welding done.
I've also spoken to a number of panel beaters who have said the same thing. Expoy primer, 2k primer and then your underseal. I'll be using dintrol for my underseal once I'm ready to paint the underside.
Hope that help, keep up the good work.
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Thanks for all the advice though guys it's so helpful!
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I didn't take it all back to bare metal as alot of the VW paint and anti corrosion stuff was still in place. It was sanded lightly and degreased.
The raptor is now falling off in sheets. It didn't stick to a alot of the areas and has caused cavities under itself.
So if you intend to use it be careful! Some of the raptor videos suggest an adhesion promoter to assist in it sticking.
TBH if I was going to do it again and I probably will have to shortly, I'd use a stone chip product instead.
I believe POR do some good stuff.
Ian
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ARC894Y
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Brother in Law used Gravitex Upol Gravitex Stone Chip 1.0L - Express Paints for the underside I think.
Ian
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ARC894Y
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I spent some time researching dintirol and was happy with results and durability.
Great work so far.
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But One of my tenants moved out of a lock up i own so I'm going to move the car there, which means it will be covered and a perfect place to spray it as it will be relatively dust free which is great. I can't say that he left it in a particularly good condition though!
I ended up buying a miltek exhaust, I went for the non resonated version because I'm a 17 year old boy at heart! I have the bike carbs and manifold coming today and a bumper pile of bits coming from classic vw and vw heritage. Very exciting!
T
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I find it interesting the way folk buy parts. Exhaust will be about the last thing for mine as I don't need it until I start the thing up - and that's a way off! Still, it's nice to have something new and shiny to keep the motivation up.
Would you mind posting up a couple of pics (at different angles) of the heat shield around the gear shift lever boot. Mine is missing and I'll need to try and make one up.
Keep up the good work - be done in no time!
J
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Here are some pics of the heat shield, I'll be taking it off later today and will get some more pics then. I'll have to send it off to the powder coaters after he's done with the rest of the bits I've given him to spruce up.
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So, I thought i would share this with you all….
I've just been chatting to an ex colleague of mine, an ex paint & body guy who is product development manager for U-pol, the company who invented and supply 'Raptor'.
I told him i had used raptor recently and wasn't that impressed, because it seemed so hard on my last job (lack of deflection) , and should i be using a stonechip type product instead, and that i had heard from you guys that the raptor was coming off in sheets in places on another job.
His advice was that Raptor is most definitely the better product for chemical resistance and basic protection/durability. The recommendation is to tint the raptor with no more than 200ml of activated 2K body colour, this will give some slight flexibility and deflection to the Raptor, due to the pigment in the mix not crosslinking.
Also, Raptor needs a good 'bite' to promote adhesion to the substrate, the recommended substrate is epoxy primer, prepped using no finer than P180 - no finer.
lastly, Raptor needs a decent substrate film thickness for extra protection underneath it, either etch and 2K primer filler, or Epoxy primer with no real need for etch.
So there you go hope this helps…
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Consider build up of explosive solvents,
and consider that the 2K contains Isocyanates.
An air fed respirator is a must, plus good drying and filtering of your air - both for moisture content and oil mist -
Lastly, you will need minimum humidity and the temperature is recommended 20 degrees C, to avoid moisture and micro blistering.
Take care!
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Ps I'll be getting a respirator as well!
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