Underseal!!!

HI All
 Not mk1 golf related but is mk2 golf related so technically same issue/problem. Really struggling to get the underseal off from car chasis/floor etc.
Anyone resto guys/girls got any top tips on how to do this without
A, paying someone else to do it and
B, setting car on fire!!
Thanks
Steve

You're struggling because the factory stuff is the best you can possible get, even after nearly 40 years its still adhered like suger to a blanket. Why on earth are you spending time money and effort to replace it with something nowhere near as good?

HI
Apologies i should have been more clear. I need to remove underseal to see the extent of any repair work (welding etc)that i need to carry out.
Currently doing a restoration on a mk2 golf gti.
And yes the underseal is very good in some cases almost an inch thick!
Thanks

ah right, that makes sense then. When I was doing the same to the GTI I think zip wheels on an angle grinder worked well but wear heavy duty gloves and eye PPE

You should just remove the areas where it is lifted, leave the rest on, you just cannot replicate it with anything as good. If there is rust the sealant lifts slightly and comes off easy, give it a good jet wash first and inspect it carefully and you should be able to tell where it has rust under it.

yeah im in exactly the same boat here!! have aheap to remove. doing a complete restoration, ie probably going to aqua blast her and then start fresh for paint etc.........all in all mines isnt too rusty but it just doesnt look nice at all........just dont want that mangey stuff under the carpets. Will be all new for me i think.........

Over here on this side of the pond folks have had good luck by using Dry-ice, and a dead blow hammer.

Place the dry-ice on the material leave it for a few minutes, then smack the super cold stuff with a dead blow hammer and it breaks right off.

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I don’t care what anyone says, I would not remove the factory stuff, only where it is ‘loose’, because there is nothing we can do possibly do to re-instate protection as good as the factory did it.

And, remember that when you do remove the factory stuff, you also remove the catholic primer and phosphated layers.

You could go for a full dipping in acid and re- coat in electrolytically, then epoxy prime and a two pack rubberised spray coat and final ‘black wax’, and that’s the best we can do, which is a massive time and money pit , and still not as good as the factory. That’s as close as we can get.

My advice is a good jsteam clean followed by close inspection, and only remove areas that have failed, then re-instate as good as possible ie epoxy primer and 2 pack stone chip resistance follows by a wax / oil based “Schultz.”


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