VR6 into a Mk1
Posted
#695720
(In Topic #83954)
Newbie

VR6 into a Mk1
I basically need the engine and gearbox fitted as I dont have the skills and wondered if anyone could recommend somewhere to do it???
The rest of the build,wiring and painting I can handle, I'm just not a skilled fabricator! :cry:
The rest of the build,wiring and painting I can handle, I'm just not a skilled fabricator! :cry:
Posted
Local Hero

AFAIK there's 2 ways to do this:
Simple method
Modify the rear engine attached mount (make it shorter), and use the existing mounts into either custom, or chiselled-from-donor-car, mounting points which are welded directly onto the Mk1 bodywork
Complex method
Cut away part of the chassis rails of the Mk1, to allow the bolting on of the donor car's subframe. This also requires custom-shorter wishbones and possibly custom track rods too.
In either case, you will need to custom-fabricate your own exhaust manifold. It wouldn't be too hard if you bought, say a Mk2 conversion manifold and cut/reformed this, it would save a lot of time. You may also find the driveshafts need to be shortened.
It was the extra fabrication, that put me off doing a VR6 conversion, instead going for a 2 litre 16V.
Simple method
Modify the rear engine attached mount (make it shorter), and use the existing mounts into either custom, or chiselled-from-donor-car, mounting points which are welded directly onto the Mk1 bodywork
Complex method
Cut away part of the chassis rails of the Mk1, to allow the bolting on of the donor car's subframe. This also requires custom-shorter wishbones and possibly custom track rods too.
In either case, you will need to custom-fabricate your own exhaust manifold. It wouldn't be too hard if you bought, say a Mk2 conversion manifold and cut/reformed this, it would save a lot of time. You may also find the driveshafts need to be shortened.
It was the extra fabrication, that put me off doing a VR6 conversion, instead going for a 2 litre 16V.
Posted
Newbie

Cheers!
I've looked into both ways and want to go with the weld in mounts and not using the Mk3 subframe etc!!
Any recommendations on who would do the mounts etc??
I've looked into both ways and want to go with the weld in mounts and not using the Mk3 subframe etc!!
Any recommendations on who would do the mounts etc??
Posted
Local Hero

i recomend
dont bother get a 20vt
the vr6 lump is way to heavy for a mk1 seriouse nose dive under breaking

the vr6 lump is way to heavy for a mk1 seriouse nose dive under breaking


Posted
Local Hero

RAVEN said
Cheers!
I've looked into both ways and want to go with the weld in mounts and not using the Mk3 subframe etc!!
Any recommendations on who would do the mounts etc??
You're looking for someone who is familiar with welding, and also into more involved mechanical stuff like taking engines out of cars, etc. A typical garage probably wouldn't be interested, and if they are, it would cost a fortune if it were on an hourly rate.
You could try established places like The Phirm, TSR, etc though I wouldn't recommend any of them, due to the likely price they'd charge.
Whereabouts are you located?
Posted
Local Hero

Re: i recomend
bens_cab said
dont bother get a 20vt![]()
the vr6 lump is way to heavy for a mk1 seriouse nose dive under breaking![]()
Do you have exact weights? I don't think it is, if you believe all the forum myths apparently the VR6 weighs about 17 tons. There's plenty you can do to take the weight off the front of the car, and bring it back to stock weight. Its just that people don't really do this.
Posted
Local Hero

hmm
had ago in one a while back and i wasnt filled with confidence it realy felt weird on the front under breaking
it ketp nose diving and it wasnt short of expensive suspension parts thats why i went with the 20vt
for cost and performance a good conversion to do just very involved :dontknow:
it ketp nose diving and it wasnt short of expensive suspension parts thats why i went with the 20vt
for cost and performance a good conversion to do just very involved :dontknow:

Posted
Local Hero

Agreed, 20vT would be the more sensible route to take. There's parts out there to make it a bolt-on conversion, and plenty of info from people who have previously done it, no real tricky stuff involved.
Posted
Newbie

I was going to go the 1.8t route but want something different!! :wink:
Posted
Local Hero

hmm
well what about a 20v on throttle bodies thats different no turbo just lots of valves
plus the normal 20v lumps are cheaper to buy
or 16v turbo easy to do
the vr6 is probaly the hardest to do i think i could manage one raven where u from
plus the normal 20v lumps are cheaper to buy
or 16v turbo easy to do
the vr6 is probaly the hardest to do i think i could manage one raven where u from

Posted
Local Hero

The VR6 is more about the sound and the torque (which makes it easy to drive). The only thing that comes close to it on torque, would be a modern diesel with lots of electronic gizmos, etc.
Posted
Old Timer

If you go onto the Caddy forum www.vwcaddyforum.com there are a couple of people there who've done VR6 swaps. Al (admin) has documented it all in photos so should help a lot. Looks like A LOT of work though !!!
Posted
Newbie

paul_c said
The only thing that comes close to it on torque, would be a modern diesel with lots of electronic gizmos, etc.
LOL!!!, my 90bhp Seat Leon this morning on the RR!!
Still a bit of tweaking to do though!!

Posted
Newbie

Re: hmm
bens_cab said
the vr6 is probaly the hardest to do i think i could manage one raven where u from
Im not that close!! lol, although I need to pick the engine up near Bognar and the GTi is in Shrewsbury at the mo!!
Posted
Local Hero

RAVEN said
paul_c said
The only thing that comes close to it on torque, would be a modern diesel with lots of electronic gizmos, etc.
LOL!!!, my 90bhp Seat Leon this morning on the RR!!
Still a bit of tweaking to do though!!
![]()
Must be nice having 100bhp at 2500rpm!
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.