Total O.E.M 1.8t Agu bar aircon pump/D pipe into Mk1 Caddy

Hey guys. I have been looking but I just wondered if anyone has put a standard conversion with ecu into a Mk1.
I.e engine, gearbox, full engine loom, ecu and all wires as far as they go. Everything bar aircon pump and downpipe. I have been told that after an ecu de-immobilise I can just wire the ecu into my Mk1 (caddy). I do have a 1.8T Mk1 Golf Cabriolet (sound greedy now) with Emerald etc but just want this one as it would be running standard. (for now lol)
I'm getting the caddy painted this or next week and am actually gonna do a build thread this time. Done loads over the years (scirocco, corrado, Mk4 1.8T Golf, camper, Mk1 cabs etc) but never documented them…

All help is much appreciated.
Thanks, Dean.

Go one further with the loom and convert a full mk4 or A3 loom to fit the mk1, takes a lot of time but worth it in the long run.  Engine can pretty much go in as standard and the best bet is an early cable throttle type as the later ones with dbw take a lot more work to fit.  Gearbox can be done but i'd go with a 02a from a mk3 (16v and some diesels) golf instead with a clutch and flywheel change from the mk3.

Hi mate. What would the benefit of that be though? With the set-up i just got, realistically i should just be able to deimmobilise the ecu and wire it to the fuse box and it should just work. I wondered if anyone knows the wiring set up..... I have G60 gearbox on my other 1.8t but thought for what i wanted to do this time round i thought the standard box should be fine. Why a mk3 box? Non hydraulic? Thanks mate.

No mk3 box is hydraulic, a lot of the o2js have different output shafts which need changing and by changing to 02a you get rid of the stupid dual mass flywheel, which in turn loses quite a bit of mass from the flywheel and makes a revvy engine which I think is more suited to the mk1 with it being much lighter than the lard ass mk4 the engine comes from.  I run a lightened g60 flywheel on mine with a vr6 clutch, box is still hydraulic though.

Reason for changing the whole loom is you end up with much better electrics, remember the mk1 loom is at least 30 year old technology, the mk4 loom is much newer and uses thinwall cable, the difference is worth the effort as all the lights are much better and if done right will give much better reliability in the future.  I did this with mine and stripped all the abs and airbag stuff out and anything else that isn't needed from the mk4 loom.

I hear what you are saying but this is straying away from what I want to do. I want to use what I have as it was ment to be. If the gearbox becomes an issue, ill change it but for now I want standard set-up, ecu running standard power. My cab is very powerful, but as the caddy is lighter I think standard power will be fine.

no real need to convert to mk4 fusebox, i dont actually like it as its a step backwards as far as i am concerned over CE2 electrics in the 90spec mk2 and mk3. everything is all bundled together again which makes it more of a pain to work on. you could use the mk4 loom to repair a mk1 loom if required, but unless its faulty i wouldn't bother. plus the lengths are all wrong for a mk1 because the fusebox is on the wrong side of the car, so you would have to lengthen it or move everything to driver side and ream holes in the bulkhead for the engine bay looms.

if you were going to upgrade the fusebox I would choose CE2 every time, much better.

i have converted loads of mk4 looms to fit a mk1 fusebox, its not hard at all. the only thing is you need to fit the ecu relay above the fusebox unless you find a CE1 digifant engine loom to steal plug R from as this powers up the ecu relay socket.

If your lights are poor just get a relayed lighting loom, that takes all the load off the fusebox. the power for the lights isnt just reduced by old wiring, its also down to the old switches. the power for the headlights has to travel from fusebox, to light switch, then flasher switch, then back out to the lights!

Hi Jonny. Yeah, basically I want to use Mk1 fusebox and just wire In mk.4 loom with Mk4 ecu. Then just a matter of radiator as lights will still be on Mk1 loom I think. Is that correct? So really power the ecu and starter should work off of Mk4 loom.

yeah you strip out all the old engine managment stuff from the mk1 engine loom, leaving kjust the starter, wiper and oil/water sensor stuff. do the opposite in the mk4 loom and combine them together. with ce1 there is only 1 wire from the mk4 loom to the fusebox for the fuel pump trigger to d/13 (for mk2 digi/16v or mk3 petrol pump relay 67/80/167), the rest is external.

the fuel wire comes from the fuel pump pin e/14, you need 2 wiures from this pin 1 to the fusel pump and the other to a spade which you then plug into the ecu fuel pump live wires on the mk4 engine loom. the ecu/coil power as i say put on a relay above the fusebox unless you can get a plug r, then there are things like diagnostics, speed signal and clutch pedal switch which are all external from the fusebox

have a read of this, it covers the aum/auq but agu is similar job but easier as the ecu is much simpler than the dbw ones:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887

i cover CE1 wiring later in thew thread, but note i recommend now to use an ecu relay for the ecu and coils to ensure they get max power.

Nice one Jonny. I wonder, how much would it cost for a nice loom taking into account what i said i want to do? I will find out what parts i do have (of the loom) but a rough guestimate would be great. Thanks for the info though!

for a CE1 -> 20v loom you would be looking at 120, however I cant get to it before july at the earliest as i have 48 other looms booked in already! I cant do immobilser defeats either, but plenty out there who can.  If you need more loom repairs I can do them at the same time but it will cost a bit more. if you need a fuel pump power pin for E/14 remind me when you book it in and I will include one for you

oh and just to correct another point earlier, you can use an 02j mk4 gearbox just as easily as an 02a, they are the same externally. its just you need to use a mk4 shifter (or fit an 02a shifter tower to the box, but i dont recommend that) plus fit 100mm flanges if its a later one with 108. no need to use the DMF with the 02j, you just fit a solid flywheel from an 02a car same way as with an 02a box

also many people seem to think the only p[lace to find the flywheel is a G60, but in fact its on a lot more cars than this. mk3 and seat abf + tdi, all 4cylinder corrados, and most b3/4 4 cylinder passats. (some poverty spec passat have a smaller version, make sure its 228mm basically) the recomendation is to then fit a VR6 clutch as its the strongest stock one that fits. I always use sachs clutch kits but many use LUK without issue. its just i have heard of LUK kits failing before, but never sachs.

AVS Car Parts - [The VW - Audi - Seat - Skoda Parts Specialist]

Can you use a VR6 flwheel also?

no different fitment on the 6 cylinder engines

Ok. So using the Mk4 box, I still need to change flywheel and clutch yeah?

yep, unless you want to keep the DMF!