Mk1 Golf Engine Mount Bolts Help
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Mk1 Golf Engine Mount Bolts Help
In the process of putting an ABF into my mk1 golf, and I need to get new engine mount bolts for the car. Can anyone tell me what bolts I need can they be bought from local DIY shop or would I be better of going to VW and getting them from there?
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The n/s and o/s mounts are M10x85 and the front mount uses M10x25 with oversize washers on them.
'81 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
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Thanks for that, do they have to be of a certain strength?
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Not as far as i'm aware, I run original VW ones but my mates using standard 8.8 ones with a 1.8T and they've been fine.
'81 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
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yeh im thinking of getting the standard vw ones to save me from running around looking for them. Can you remember how much they set you back from vw?
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About a quid + VAT from VW, part no. is N 044 742 1.
'81 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T
Posted

Old Timer

Ive been using a company called stagonset for stainless bolts. toy can get any size/amount delivered for reasonable money. + they look nicer!
try Under Construction
try Under Construction
Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
Posted
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Take care using Stainless bolts/nuts/screws on the car, the dissimilar metals can increase corrosion rates.
Although they do look pretty
Although they do look pretty

Posted

Old Timer

That's the first time I've heard of that one…..
I know some odd stuff happens with aluminum and mild steel start to rot.
I'm using stainless for two reasons, the first being my friends concourse RS turbo is held together with them, and secondly he recomended them ( he is a buyer for industrial grade construction fasteners ), so I think my car will be ok.
It also doesn't see much wet weather, and sure as hell don't go out in the winter months.
I know some odd stuff happens with aluminum and mild steel start to rot.
I'm using stainless for two reasons, the first being my friends concourse RS turbo is held together with them, and secondly he recomended them ( he is a buyer for industrial grade construction fasteners ), so I think my car will be ok.
It also doesn't see much wet weather, and sure as hell don't go out in the winter months.

Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
Posted
Settled In


Its not as bad when stainless is in the Minority (a nut or a bolt) but the dissimilarity of the metal essentially turns the mild steel into a sacrificial annode, if its a mild steel nut on a stainless bolt then this would rapidly corrode.
If the car is kept dry then you are probably doing the rightl thing and it shouldnt really matter as the corrosion process needs an electrolyte which on a car is usually rainwater, but this can also be dampness in the air.
The closer they are on the galvanic series the lesser the likleyhood and the agresiveness of the corrosion.
If the car is kept dry then you are probably doing the rightl thing and it shouldnt really matter as the corrosion process needs an electrolyte which on a car is usually rainwater, but this can also be dampness in the air.
The closer they are on the galvanic series the lesser the likleyhood and the agresiveness of the corrosion.

Posted

Old Timer

thanks for the advice, I'll bear it in mind for the future.
I do hope to keep the car for the long term, so maybe I need to be looking elsewhere for fastenings.
Anyone know any other potential suppliers?
I do hope to keep the car for the long term, so maybe I need to be looking elsewhere for fastenings.
Anyone know any other potential suppliers?
Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
Posted
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Have a look at Cadmium plating for bolts, used fairly widley in the Aerospace industry and sits nicely with mild steel on the table above.
Its the route I am going down with nearly all my bolts.
Its the route I am going down with nearly all my bolts.
Posted
Local Hero

I think the corrosion angle is a bit of a non-issue.
I'd be more worried about the strength of stainless steel bolts on critical components - and I'd include the engine mounts on this list. If you can be assured the strength is up there, then by all means they're okay to use.
Quite costly though, compared to normal stuff, if you're going to be replacing a lot of the stuff on the car.
Search around a bit and try to buy in bulk - many times cheaper than nipping to B&Q for a packet of bolts etc!
I'd be more worried about the strength of stainless steel bolts on critical components - and I'd include the engine mounts on this list. If you can be assured the strength is up there, then by all means they're okay to use.
Quite costly though, compared to normal stuff, if you're going to be replacing a lot of the stuff on the car.
Search around a bit and try to buy in bulk - many times cheaper than nipping to B&Q for a packet of bolts etc!
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paul_c said
I think the corrosion angle is a bit of a non-issue.
I suppose it all comes down to how much you care about your motor, but IMO theres no point encouraging corrosion if you are being so meticulous in its re-assembly.
Posted
Local Hero

What I mean is, using stainless steel nuts and bolts in one place won't cause significant galvanic corrosion elsewhere. Yes, it will cause a little bit, but it won't be significant.
Posted

Old Timer

I agree with Paul C on the strength issue.
Any load bearing bolts on the cab have replaced with VAG sourced fittings, such as wishbones and brake calipers.
Most of the stainless hard wear on my car is holding non load bearing bits onto the engine, save for the front engine mount cup.
I have used stainless to replace mild steel as the car is undergoing a long term resto and some bits will be on and off a fair bit. stainless seems to have a greater resistance to rounding + key areas are being greased after assembly.
Didn;t think this would be such a hot topic!!!
8O
Any load bearing bolts on the cab have replaced with VAG sourced fittings, such as wishbones and brake calipers.
Most of the stainless hard wear on my car is holding non load bearing bits onto the engine, save for the front engine mount cup.
I have used stainless to replace mild steel as the car is undergoing a long term resto and some bits will be on and off a fair bit. stainless seems to have a greater resistance to rounding + key areas are being greased after assembly.
Didn;t think this would be such a hot topic!!!
8O
Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
Posted
Settled In


I'm feeling like a geek here, but, not all stainless is weaker than mild steel, its usually only the higher chromium content steels that are on the weak side, but they payback with different properties, a high'er' carbon stainless grade is more than capable of matching and exceeding 8.8 and higher bolts in terms of mechanical properties, you will pay for them though.
Hold on, I'm arguing against myself now
Hold on, I'm arguing against myself now

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