agu mk1 wiring questions???

hello all!
     
     i have a few questions which i cant find direct answers for!
   i have a 96 agu motor from a donor a3 to go in my little mk1 i would like to do this whole conversion myself but im not 100% on the wiring to keep the oem management!

 the golf  had a mk2 gti 8v engine (efi) can i use the two relays that the old ecu used to power the new ecu?

is it like this

pin1 12v ign, goes to pin 87 on relay 1
2 battery negative
3 12v+,
4 fuel pump, goes to pin 85 on relay 2 (fuel pump)
6 rpm signal

     i have a picture of how i thought this would look but noot sure how to upload it

what do i use to make the ecu speak to the clocks?

what engine bits can go? egr etc. . .
     are the electrical bits simply cut and removed from the loom??

whats the best way to get around the immobaliser?
    what companys are best for this?

any input will be gratefully received!!

what fusebox do you have, and did it have factory ecu relay in the right slot?

hello, i was hoping you might share some of your wealth of knowledge, i have heard so many good things!

im not sure what fuse box it has, its a mk1 golf driver 83 if thats no help is there an easy way to tell?

the chap who did the wiring for me last time around didn't send anything through the fuse box he just used two relays that were kept separate in there own little box. iv got the wiring diagram of the set up he used but i don't no where i can put it online so i can post it on here. i would like to keep it like this, separate from the fuse box because this way ill no for future where all the wires go and what there connected to should anything go wrong!

im guessing that because the car has originally carb it wouldn't have a fuel pump relay already in the fuse box ??

thanks again!

use image shack to upload the photos

ok id assume the 2 relays are for ecu and fuel pump

what i do when i make these looms is wire the factory pump relay trigger and output pins, then use factory pump socket. neater that way and less random wiring above the fusebox! ecu relay i have to leave above the fusebox though unless the donor engine loom came from a factory mk2 digifant as they have an extra 2 pin plug which is required to power the ecu relay socket.

the more wires n relays you have flapping about the more confusion and potential for things to fall out, short or snap imo

pics of the front n back of the relays and sockets will help show what you have, could have used anything when he made the looms as its not factory!

yeh i understand, been up at the car tonight took some pics of the relays that are being used




i thought this system was being used



but the relays are both 4 pin so im going with this one for the setup thats already on the car



and this is how i think the new (AGU) ecu will fit into what i already have on the car!!

yeah looks about right, just a couple o bog std switched relays for pump/ecu power. find the ecu earth on the agu for the fuel pump and use it to trigger the fuel relay and you'll be sorted. i have diagrams in my sig

and it has begun!
audi is now in pieces engines out looms out and its all starting to make sense!

has any one got any suggestions as to how you get around the immobaliser?

do i just send the ecu off to a company?

does any 1 have any feed back on which company to use?

thanks for your help in the previous posts guys!

There is a guy on ebay that offers removal not sure if there any good for around 70 80 pounds.

i thought i would have to use a company like revo!
i found the fella on ebay il let u no how i get on!
thanks

smiffster on ed38 does for a good price

after spending the weekend picking off wiring loom tape i think im nearly there, the two looms for the ecu are now off

the loom with the mass air flow sensor and o2 sensor has two connections that go back into the car via two block terminals. this is where the power and earth ect for the ecu come in two the engine bay from the fuse box and clocks

im assuming that i will only need to connect the wires for power, fuel pump and rpm signal and the other wires in these connections are irrelevant ( air con, immobiliser etc)

i think i understand this side of the loom i just want some clarification  :mrgreen:


the other side of the loom which contains most of the sensors and injectors has 1 connection which i have no idea what to do with! its a 10 pin connector which was connected to the audis loom!

whats this for?
do i need to connect anything from here?

i have been using auto data to help me out but this doesnt appear to be on there!

one more thing do i need to take any thing else from the donor? i was under the impression that with the factory ecu i would be able to have fault code port thing (that i cant remember the name of right now) in the golf for any problems that arise! i thought it would be part of the engine bay loom??


again thanks for your help!

you should have 3 plugs on the loom which used to go to the fusebox, this has power pins for ecu, diagnostics, fuel pump relay earth trigger, rev counter and a few other things. you will need to hook up most of them, but aircon can go, mpg signal for dash etc. keep the diagnostics wire, that is essential for trouble shooting modern injection systems! port only needs 3 wires so its not hard

10 pin plug has lots of feeds for the 2nd half of the loom most of which need hooking up. you have dash temp sensor wire, 1 pressure switch, power and earth for all the stuff on the 2nd half (coilpacks live & earth for example obviously is pretty important )
there are 3 wires for the speedo sensor which can go

see this thread:
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205887

has info on the more modern mk4 ecu but mostly it still applies to yours, see my posts at the end for info on CE1 wiring and loom routing. see my sig for wiring diagrams. the 10 pin plug is T10a, or sometimes its listed as T14a. pinout is usually correct though even if its listing wrong number of pins. best to check your loom plugs with multimeter to ensure its correct. notably some random AGU looms have the pump relay trigger to T10 (orange) pin 3, rather than T6 (brown) pin 2. I have no idea why but there you go

right i have read through the very informative post listed (which im not sure how i missed in my hours of research)  above and labeled the up the connectors as follows

T10
1.  oil pressure                                       green/black   not used
2.  speedo sender                                   black/white   not used
3.  —
4.  coolant temp                                     purple          
5.  10 amp fuesed live for injectors             red/purple  connect to fuel pump relay pin 87
6.  direct feed form pin 87 fuel pump relay  yellow/black
7.  earth          brown
8.  coil live 15amp fused switched live        black/purple can this come from pin 87 too???
9.  earth for senders                               brown/white   can this go to head then chassis??
10. couldnt find info on this                      blue/white on one side of the connection the green on the other any ideas?


 

i have two connector in the other half of the loom 1 red and 1 white

RED
1. ign live 15amp fused     black/purple
2. reverse light positive    red/green one side green/black on other    not used
3. starter signal              red/black             not used


WHITE
1. diagnostics or immobiliser    grey/white     to diagnostic port?
2. diagnostics or clocks??          green/white one side  yellow on the other
3. fuel pump relay earth pin 85   purple/white
4. fused 10 amp pin 87             blue yellow
5. evap canister                      purple/red one side blue/yellow on other
6. vehicle speed                        blue white     not used
7. –
8. battery +                           red/purple one side red/green on other
9. rpm signal                          green/brown
10.reverse light                     brown/black one side black/blue on the other not used

diagnostic port
4./5. earth       brown
7.  signal wire   grey/white   does this go to pin 1 or 2 on the white connector or maybe pin 10 on the t10 connector?  
16. fused switched live  red/white

does this look about right just checking due to it bein slightly different from the one on the post?
ill check connections with a multi meter as i go

feel like im nearly there cant wait to hear it run!!

corrections/clarifications to the above:

7. earth to battery, along with the red/brown wire next to ecu plug with ring terminal
8. I would run this to your ecu relay output
9. yes, but on my looms I run this to the head along with the old mk1 dash earth brown/white wire (if fitted, some mk1s dont have this seems GTI only)
10. speedo sensor signal to dash, not used

RED
1. I would run this to your ecu relay output

WHITE
1. to diagnostics port grey/white
2. unused (probably mpg signal, or aircon)
6. vehicle speed signal to ecu, need this I'm pretty sure or it goes to limp. run it to yel/white wire on radio, or direct to back of gti cluster

diagnostic port
7. diagnostics to T10/1

oh! printed a proper early A3 AGU diagram for you, should help you no end!
look in my sig a3aguecu96.pdf, if the scroll bar is missing use the pagedown key

cool cool!

ill have a good read through!
thanks again

right so the engines now around 80% in done a fair chunk of the wiring today which has been pretty straight forward but im still concerned about the vehicle speed sensor, i have chosen to use the 020 gear box for the time being due to cash flow but theres no hole for the vss!

does the ecu need a signal from this sensor?
how have people got around this with there 020 boxes?

1 other thing would the signal for the tacho have come from the coil - ?
its the only wire i havent labeled and i just wana check!


thanks in advance

the ecu vss comes from the dash, not the gearbox. if you have a gti cluster with mfa then you have a VSS

look for a yellow/white wire to the radio, or coming out the back of the dash itself. if you dont have a gti dash fit one, or swap the speedo sender unit from the back of a gti cluster into your old cluster