Skip navigation

16v questions

Post

Back to the top

16v questions

Been as im making abit of progress now with my 16v there's a few questions i've got, and ill probably have more in the future so I thought id make a thread.


1.

The KR i have used to has PAS, ive taken all the brackets off, will the same alternator pivot on the block instead of the ali cast bracket?


2.

The engines got a oil-water oil cooler, should I keep this or fit my mk1 gti oil-air cooler?


thats all for now, ta

Post

Back to the top
1.
i think you need the braket to mount the alt on i seem to remember having to keep it when i put mine in i think its something to do with the cambelt cover  

2.
i have been thinking of swapping mine over mainly because it leaks but think its more reliable and has more oil in system so lower temperatures. been reading a book on golf modifying and it says that its got to be thermostatically controlled otherwise it wont warm up and cold oil is bad. i think a std one just bolts on but ive been told the gasket isnt available anymore.

 also when i looked at it in the bay the pipes for oil cooler are very close to the alternator but i think they can be adjusted to clear it.

 if you do decide to do it post up how it goes

Post

Back to the top
1. yep you need to keep the cast iron pas bracket or swap it for mk2 16v non-pas bracket. the alternative is to cut all the pas brackets off the bottom of your pas one. you coudl instead go to mk3 golf alternator setup if you like

2. up to you, you can bin the mk2 water one, or keep it alongside the mk1 air cooler. the mk2 unit helps warm the oil quicker on a cold start. the gasket is the same for the mk1 housing and available so no problem, its the seals and gasket inside the mk1 unit that arnt available. you can make your own gaskets but iirc the oring is a tricky size. the std mk1 item is thermostatically controlled too so thats a plus.

main thing before you do anythign check the mk2 oil filter housing. the very late blocks changed to the mk3 shape so the mk1 oil filter/cooler housing wont fit

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
Thanks for the replies


I think with the alternator im going to cut down the bracket and keep the one i have now, ive never had the engine running so if the alternators alright ill stick with it, if its on its way out ill look into the mk3 conversion.


So to have both oil coolers running im guessing id keep the mk2 cooler and filter housing, but have a sandwich plate for my mk1 cooler to be connected?

Post

Back to the top
no you would fit the mk1 oil cooler/filter housing, with the mk2 oil filter thread thing fitted to it :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
another then…



Will my original 1.8 8v kjet metering head be good enough to fuel the 2.0 16v?

Ive got 2 others (1.8 16v ones) I think but they are in the bigger housings

Post

Back to the top
you need to mount the 1.8 16v metering head on the mk1 airbox so it fits on drivers side you will need to chop some away so that it fits. i cut slots in the bottom so it fits over the seam on the chassis leg and wont move about.

saying that i have seen one with the 16v air box on that seemed to fit but was a bit of a bodge

also i have just fitted my oil cooler on  :D  . i had to adjust the pipes to clear the alternator but it seems to work ok.  i left the mk2 cooler on so no need to swap water pipes

Post

Back to the top
if you go with the full kr managment includign the isv control unit use a pre-90 mk2 airbo as it has all the fittings you need for the over-run cutoff valve and breather pipe. no matter what you do you'll have to cut up the airbox to get it to sit nice on the chassis leg so you may as use the right one ;)

90-spec airbox is no good its far too wide! the inlet boot is larger on the 16v so make sure you use one of those, but it needs to be a 90spec one as pre-90 is too tall :lol:

you can actually stretch a mk1 8v boot onto the kr air flap assembly, i had to do that on my cab as i had no 16v parts to hand. it took some doing but its on there now! it fits the rest of the 16v inlet piping fine too.

have a read of my thread pics of what to do to make the 16v airbox fit. i ran mine thru the winter like this and no issues, makes it sound awesome when the bottom is cut off too. tunnels + roof down = :D
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=61862

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
my pre 90 spec boot fits

Post

Back to the top
you must have really cut up your airbox to get it under there!

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
not really i swapped the metering head on to a mk1 airbox

Post

Back to the top
ah i see, the mk2 16v airbox must be taller then

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.