16v KR engine seems to hit rev limiter at low revs ?

Hi all,

Well the cab is finally MOT'd that means its running !! of sorts… Its been a real pain but with plenty of help and suggestions from the forum when i got stuck its 98% done…

the current issue is a weird one, bearing in mind i've only driven it for 15mins on dual carriage way to get it home from the workshop, it runs very uneven and hunts between almost zero and 1000 rpm this could be all manner of things, most probably a vacuum leak if any of my other cars are anything to go by, but two other things i noticed are the engine seems to run much hotter than i'd expect for a short journey, the gauge is up past the red light bulb leaning toward max temp ? it has the correct amount of fluid so unsure, could it be air/mix wrong ?  i set the O2 emissions on the MOT testers ramp at 1.5%  ? and finally the reason for the post, if i rev the engine up its like it hits a rev limiter but its only about 4000 (not 100% on this as i was looking where i was going not at the rev counter, i did a quick google search and saw a post about possibly the wrong relay ??? really ?

can anyone shed any light on the three probs… temp / rough idle when hot / rev limit ?

bump.

Can't help too much. If you look on the MK2 OC forum rubjonny has a sticky thread on checking over the KR engine, that may help?

Otherwise, air lock in cooling system?

been giving me the run around but i managed to iron out the hunting and get it to tick over and drive very smoothly, no easy task and following the info online has helped a fair deal indeed but….

the temp gauge is way up, i drove it 5 miles to the workshop today and pretty much ignored the gauge and it was fine, perfect in fact even with a guestimate at the co2 setting, the engine didnt boil over  

after setting the co2 using a meter the gauge was still sky high and the car has started to hunt very slightly again and also the revs drop when you dip the clutch to almost stalling before picking up again, thought i'd solved all that, might tune it out manually without the aid of a meter like i did before but that still leaves the gauge ?

from the temp gauge in the dash back to the block the gauge is connected to the dash insert, the insert connected to the fuse box at plug B7  by a ge/ro wire, in the fuse box its connected to D29 where is picks up  ge / bl wire that goes to a relay (no18) numbered 43 it shares its pin with a ge / ro wire that leads out to the engine bay and to the sender in the block.

This is all as it should be according to the haynes manual ? but with the ignition on and the wire in the engine bay disconnected the wire in the engine bay ge/ro picks up 10.1v  ?? the ge/bl wire from the relay to the fuse box is showing 6.8v which is the same for the wire from the box to the dash !

question is, where is it picking up the feed from, surely there should be no feed, or should there ?

think i'm getting to the bottom of this now….

the CO2 screw, the idle speed and the tickover screw are all out of sync in a big way….    

i need to find an exploded diagram of a throttle body so i can get the two halves to turn freely without the nut holding them tightening up after every 6 revs of the throttle, and i need to know how to reset the brass tick over advance screw thingy, on a carb it was wind right in then back off 2 and half turns, doesnt seem so with this throttle body  

Have a look on VAGCAT for the diagram, not sure how 'exploded' the view will be.

Just went to have a look but the site is down - I hope that's only temporary!!  

got the cab into a rolling road place and they have worked wonders on it !!

but on the way home today it did a nasty hesitation under load like a miss fire almost, or like a rev limit, i think it could be low fuel pressure as the gauge is down in the orange !

further to the 16v conversion you also need a mk2 temp gauge as the mk1 reads off the scale all the time !! nobody has mentioned that in any of the hundreds of threads i've read about a KR conversion,. luckily a mate has a mk2 dash cluster so i'll strip that or look at replacing the lot !

turns out there was a duff rectifier on the membrane at teh back, replaced it and now nothing electrical on the dash works LOL